Kick Panel Questions
#1
Kick Panel Questions
I am thinking about making some kick panels as my speakers are rattling the hell out of my doors and it sounds terrible. I have a couple of questions regarding kick panels:
First, are there any tricks to properly aiming the speakers? For example, should I run a string line from the headreast to the kick panel location?
Second, should I create a sealed enclosure for each speaker? Because the drivers and passenger sides are different I think it would be impossible to create equal Vb for the speakers. Would this negatively affect the performance of the speakers? Or once the enclosure volume is of sufficient size will any differences between them be negligible? Should I just leave the rear of the kick panel open and fire the speakers into the carpet?
Thanks for the help!
First, are there any tricks to properly aiming the speakers? For example, should I run a string line from the headreast to the kick panel location?
Second, should I create a sealed enclosure for each speaker? Because the drivers and passenger sides are different I think it would be impossible to create equal Vb for the speakers. Would this negatively affect the performance of the speakers? Or once the enclosure volume is of sufficient size will any differences between them be negligible? Should I just leave the rear of the kick panel open and fire the speakers into the carpet?
Thanks for the help!
#2
First question would be what speaker you are putting in the kick. I recently had my 6.5" Driver in the kick and it had to come out because there wasn't enough volume and the speaker sounded pretty bad. Like yourself it rattled for me in the door as well, I triple sound deaden my door panel and door skin put it back there and it came alive. I now have my 4" and 1" in the kick, Much better I think. To answer your question about aiming I just made a temp baffle and listen to the speaker at all different angles for about a month or so and once I found the sweet spot I went to work. I used a pen laser and aimed them at my dome light to make them exact. Also made sure the iner volume is as close to being the same as possible and the thinness of the fiberglass is also the same. Weather that makes a different I’m not sure but doesn't hurt. I'm sure there is more experience builder on this site who can help you out. Just remember to build them strong have them aimed the same on both sides and you should be alright. Testing the speaker is key before building; you don’t want to waste your time.
Also you can always make them enclosed and if you don’t like it you can cut the backs out of them like I did. In my case it only helped a little. Some people port them up into the dash that could also work.
Trial and error is your best friend
Frank
Also you can always make them enclosed and if you don’t like it you can cut the backs out of them like I did. In my case it only helped a little. Some people port them up into the dash that could also work.
Trial and error is your best friend
Frank
#3
^ That's good advice.
I agree that it matters what driver you are putting in your KP. Is it the mid of a 2way system or the midbass of a 3way system?
Assuming it is a mid, it pays to play with aiming them as sometimes you will get something that doesn't look like it should work but it does. Personally, I use a mini-mag light and start with an initial aim at the top back corner of the opposite front door window.
I generally only do mids in kickpanels so volume is less of an issue. If you are putting a larger driver in there then remember that most larger drivers want a fair bit of air. Opening the back of the pod into the kickpanel cavity is probably a good idea.
Make your pods as strong as possible. Thin fiberglass is a good way to get bad sound. I can stand on my pods without worry and I'm no pinner
I agree that it matters what driver you are putting in your KP. Is it the mid of a 2way system or the midbass of a 3way system?
Assuming it is a mid, it pays to play with aiming them as sometimes you will get something that doesn't look like it should work but it does. Personally, I use a mini-mag light and start with an initial aim at the top back corner of the opposite front door window.
I generally only do mids in kickpanels so volume is less of an issue. If you are putting a larger driver in there then remember that most larger drivers want a fair bit of air. Opening the back of the pod into the kickpanel cavity is probably a good idea.
Make your pods as strong as possible. Thin fiberglass is a good way to get bad sound. I can stand on my pods without worry and I'm no pinner
#4
I am flexible on drivers. Right now I have a cheap set of Polk db650's and my Crossfire VR404 should be here tomorrow to power them. Hopefully getting them off deck power will help improve the mid-bass.
I have a lot of power to play with if I choose to upgrade in the future, maybe using the kicks for an additional midbass driver. I am also worried that amp power will increase the panel resonance issue, which is why I was considering kick panels.
There are going in a 03 Civic. The panels won't be able to be too large without getting in the way. To keep volume down it they would be for a 6.5" driver at most. Venting the pods into the frame or fender seems like the best idea as volume will be small. Could this be achieved with some kind of tubing?
I have a lot of power to play with if I choose to upgrade in the future, maybe using the kicks for an additional midbass driver. I am also worried that amp power will increase the panel resonance issue, which is why I was considering kick panels.
There are going in a 03 Civic. The panels won't be able to be too large without getting in the way. To keep volume down it they would be for a 6.5" driver at most. Venting the pods into the frame or fender seems like the best idea as volume will be small. Could this be achieved with some kind of tubing?
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06-21-2005 03:53 PM