bnevets27

iTrader: (1)

I have 0.2 cu.ft of space to work with. Looking for SQ. More then likely going to be a 8" sub. This is going to be my only sub.

I don't know much about car audio. I put a bunch of subs into winISD and found out the what box size was needed for each sub based on a Qtc of 0.707.

That being said, the short list of subs I found that would work in that air space is:

cu.ft. needed for a Qtc of 0.707
8" TC Sounds Epic 8"-- 300RMS - 0.095
8" TB W8-1363SB------ 120RMS - 0.134
8" TB W8-740P--------- 150RMS - 0.178
8" Dayton S210-------- 200RMS - 0.211
8" JBL GTO 804-------- 200RMS - 0.338
8" Dayton DCS205----- 150RMS - 0.33
10" ED SQ10----------- 250RMS - 0.341

The TC Sounds sub looks to be in a class of its own. What would be the difference in using the TC vs say the dayton? Not taking into account the TC can take more power. I have a little over 200w to power the sub currently, and was hoping to use all of it. The TC would make my life easier because I wouldn't have to worry about getting every last inch of space out of the space I have to put it in.

Anyone have experience with any of these subs in a very small enclosure? Any suggestions on a better sub, or any suggestions in general?

gadg8man

Interested in hearing opinions as well.

fresh1

iTrader: (2)

Go with the TC, but why would you list subs that require more space that what you have?

bnevets27

iTrader: (1)

Couple reasons.
One because I can build a simple enclosure and have 0.2 cu.ft. Or build a complex enclosure and get 0.33 cu.ft. There is someone that has made a mold for a sub box for location I was to put the sub but they are only one person and don't have time to be producing any yet. When they are being produced I'll more then likely end up with one.

Secondly, according to winISD some of the subs that need more airspace actually still model well in slightly smaller boxes. I'm also ok with the Qtc going up a little bit. Which is what happens when trying to put the subs in a smaller box.

I also wanted to open up my options a bit also. I want to use all the power I have so I wanted to use a 200w + sub. So that cuts the list down to TC, Dayton and JBL.

Any specific reason you are suggesting the TC?

AAAAAAA

iTrader: (7)

Don't forget you need to take into account the driver displacement as well.

The polk mm 840 will also work in 0.3. You should try and get the bigger enclosure or go with a smaller 6inch sub form the likes of tang band for instance and port it. Results might even be better.

bnevets27

iTrader: (1)

Haven't forgotten about driver displacement. Anyone know of a good way to find driver displacement if the manufacture doesn't provide it?

Well I can't get a bigger enclosure. No one makes any enclosures for my car. So I have to make one.

I had a tang band in my car, but blew it trying to push it too hard. It was ported. I need a little more.

The polk mm 840 in a 0.3 enclosure gives a Qtc of 1.00. From what I have read, the best sound quality is at a Qtc of 0.707. This is just what I have read, be it in many locations, I don't have any real world experience.

Polk does suggest a sealed box size of 0.35 cu.ft.

I'm not looking to get a high SPL, what every I can get out of the space I have is fine. I just want to makes sure that it sounds good.

Junkinthetrunk

iTrader: (2)

Arc 8". I believe it's .3 or .35 sealed.

Mr.DatSubishi

CDT has "bass heavy" component packages that u could use in deadened doors to really accent a smaller sub. I believe they use their 6 1/2" sub as the woofer. They also make 6x9 subs which could go in factory locations if getting rid of rear speakers. I've heard of guys running the new shallow TypeR in as little as .25 cu ft. just ideas

gadg8man

The JL 8w3 is also designed for a .3 cuft sealed enclosure.

Schnitz

You could always reverse mount the sub to negate the driver displacement portion of the equation.