Am i getting ripped off?
12-01-2010, 11:37 PM
#21
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 32
the way i understood it 1600 watts peak. now this is new too my eyes so i dont quite understand the difference when im looking at it and seeing 400 watts then RMS; 1600 watts peak.
what i thought was 1600 watts peak meant that is the maximum amount of power you can put too the sub.
please inlighten me. im all for learning.
what i thought was 1600 watts peak meant that is the maximum amount of power you can put too the sub.
please inlighten me. im all for learning.
12-02-2010, 12:21 AM
#22
Ohhhhh that place. Should have said near Caddy's in the first place lol
Anyways, back to the price, I guess I was wrong. I've just always found that many shops tend to charge a bit more for products than I like to see, but their installation skills are usually better than a big box store. If you want a decent sub, go with the Mach 5 IXL. They were rated at 1000 rms, but through the grapevine I heard that the rating was dropped to 800 rms because people were getting gain happy and killing them.
Now, rms means root mean square, what that exact phrase means I have no idea. In this world however rms means the amount of power the subwoofer can take on a regular basis safely. Peak is how much it takes to kill it, but that number is more of a warning, and almost never true. The numbers you should be concerned about are the rms ratings of the subwoofer, the rms ratings of the amp, and that their impedances match up. Now, like Les said, 400 and 1000 are huge differences, so you should choose which one you want to run and then start looking around. I'm not really an SQ though, nor am I an electrical engineer. There is a thread about asking the guy anything, he'll tell you exactly what to do. If however you want to skip all his jargon, just buy a Danley tapped horn, its the loudest enclosure you can get and the best sounding thing in the world.
Anyways, back to the price, I guess I was wrong. I've just always found that many shops tend to charge a bit more for products than I like to see, but their installation skills are usually better than a big box store. If you want a decent sub, go with the Mach 5 IXL. They were rated at 1000 rms, but through the grapevine I heard that the rating was dropped to 800 rms because people were getting gain happy and killing them.
Now, rms means root mean square, what that exact phrase means I have no idea. In this world however rms means the amount of power the subwoofer can take on a regular basis safely. Peak is how much it takes to kill it, but that number is more of a warning, and almost never true. The numbers you should be concerned about are the rms ratings of the subwoofer, the rms ratings of the amp, and that their impedances match up. Now, like Les said, 400 and 1000 are huge differences, so you should choose which one you want to run and then start looking around. I'm not really an SQ though, nor am I an electrical engineer. There is a thread about asking the guy anything, he'll tell you exactly what to do. If however you want to skip all his jargon, just buy a Danley tapped horn, its the loudest enclosure you can get and the best sounding thing in the world.
12-02-2010, 12:52 AM
#23
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 633
That particular sub is rated 400 RMS and 1600 peak... I have 2 and they both get 600 RMS daily with no problems... I have powered one of them with 800 RMS with no problems (though I understand what a clipped signal sounds/smells like)
I'm sure you could do a search and find hundreds of RMS vs Peak threads
Originally in car audio there was never a standard in the industry for rating amplifiers/speakers for power output (home audio is much better regulated) which led the many companies "overemphasizing" what their product could do... always go by the RMS power (though you will find that some companies will under-rate this spec)...
In pro audio they will list a Peak, Program and Continuous power rating just to confuse things even more.
I'm sure you could do a search and find hundreds of RMS vs Peak threads
Originally in car audio there was never a standard in the industry for rating amplifiers/speakers for power output (home audio is much better regulated) which led the many companies "overemphasizing" what their product could do... always go by the RMS power (though you will find that some companies will under-rate this spec)...
In pro audio they will list a Peak, Program and Continuous power rating just to confuse things even more.
12-02-2010, 06:21 AM
#24
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,151
the way i understood it 1600 watts peak. now this is new too my eyes so i dont quite understand the difference when im looking at it and seeing 400 watts then RMS; 1600 watts peak.
what i thought was 1600 watts peak meant that is the maximum amount of power you can put too the sub.
please inlighten me. im all for learning.
what i thought was 1600 watts peak meant that is the maximum amount of power you can put too the sub.
please inlighten me. im all for learning.
12-02-2010, 07:45 AM
#25
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 32
Alright that clears things up a **** load for that. I'm deff not planning on a 400watt system. 1000 is my goal. Secondly what is the difference between a dual 1 and dual 2 on the fi q. Will each require a difference amp is it refering to it running at 1 ohm or 2 ohms?
Alex.
Alex.
12-02-2010, 07:55 AM
#26
The dual 1 ohm sub will allow you to wire as either .5 or 2 ohm. That would be the starting load your amplifier will see.
The dual 2 ohm sub will wire to either a 1 or 4 ohm load. So you choose you coil configuration based on what amp you buy and how much power it makes @ a certain ohm rating.
eg.
1) a 1000 watt amp @ 1 ohms you need the dual 2 ohm sub and wire it in parallel to get a 1 ohm load for the amp to make optimum power.
2) a 1000 watt amp @ 2 ohms you need the dual 1 ohm sub and wire it in series to get a 2 ohm load for the amp to make optimum power.
HTH
The dual 2 ohm sub will wire to either a 1 or 4 ohm load. So you choose you coil configuration based on what amp you buy and how much power it makes @ a certain ohm rating.
eg.
1) a 1000 watt amp @ 1 ohms you need the dual 2 ohm sub and wire it in parallel to get a 1 ohm load for the amp to make optimum power.
2) a 1000 watt amp @ 2 ohms you need the dual 1 ohm sub and wire it in series to get a 2 ohm load for the amp to make optimum power.
HTH
Last edited by DeadlySones; 12-02-2010 at 07:59 AM.
12-02-2010, 08:33 AM
#28
you do realize that a real 1000 watt amp will run you around $1000 alone from a retail shop?
you have to get ripped off first to learn the lesson.
say if you find a proper 1000 watt amp, it will break cuz your battery is soft, and the cap only makes things worse.
doesnt matter if you are sending 10 or 10 million watts to a speaker, if you have a factory deck it will sound horrible.
what you need to do is start a new thread in which you outline your budget and any and all components you might already have. normally saying i want THIS and have THIS MUCH to spend doesnt work out b/c starting from strach you would probably need more things than you think.
and why 1000 watts?? you have to realize that how loud and clear your subwoofer sounds mainly depends on the box you are using and how clean the signal is.
forget all these guys who say buy this or buy that from online places, fukk that.
go to the for sale section and look for stuff there, save some money and buy from people in person.
you have to get ripped off first to learn the lesson.
say if you find a proper 1000 watt amp, it will break cuz your battery is soft, and the cap only makes things worse.
doesnt matter if you are sending 10 or 10 million watts to a speaker, if you have a factory deck it will sound horrible.
what you need to do is start a new thread in which you outline your budget and any and all components you might already have. normally saying i want THIS and have THIS MUCH to spend doesnt work out b/c starting from strach you would probably need more things than you think.
and why 1000 watts?? you have to realize that how loud and clear your subwoofer sounds mainly depends on the box you are using and how clean the signal is.
forget all these guys who say buy this or buy that from online places, fukk that.
go to the for sale section and look for stuff there, save some money and buy from people in person.
Last edited by Father Yuli; 12-02-2010 at 08:40 AM.
12-02-2010, 10:57 AM
#30
!!!!AWAITING CONFIRMATION!!!!!!
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 152
I think you should listen to Yuli and go back to the drawing board, then come out with a new thread stating what you have, what your goal is and what your budget is.
First you need to decide what you really want because what you saying doesn't make any sense but with a little research (we are happy to help) things should clear up for you. For instance, why have you decided on 1000W (rms I assume) for you sub but are after sound quality for your system? SQ will not be good if you're powering stock speakers with the clarion deck.
So the question is, Will Hunting, What do you want? And don't tell me you want to be a Sheppard!!
First you need to decide what you really want because what you saying doesn't make any sense but with a little research (we are happy to help) things should clear up for you. For instance, why have you decided on 1000W (rms I assume) for you sub but are after sound quality for your system? SQ will not be good if you're powering stock speakers with the clarion deck.
So the question is, Will Hunting, What do you want? And don't tell me you want to be a Sheppard!!
