amp wiring help/questions
Am thinking about getting a RF P8004 amp, basically it puts out 100 X 4 @ 4 ohm and 200 X 4 @ 2 ohm. Now, i've got 2 subs which are 2 ohm. that said, would i be able to hook up 200 X 2 at the 2 ohm, and connect the two other free channels to components (which may not be 2 ohm?) Would the amp automatically send the components a 4 ohm load??
second part - just thought of this, would i be able to hook up 200W on each voice coil of ths subs (they are dual) basically giving me 400 per sub, using up the 200 X 4 @ 2 ohm??
i'm new to this ohm business, so trying to wrap my head around. thanks for any help.
second part - just thought of this, would i be able to hook up 200W on each voice coil of ths subs (they are dual) basically giving me 400 per sub, using up the 200 X 4 @ 2 ohm??
i'm new to this ohm business, so trying to wrap my head around. thanks for any help.
Last edited by phildownunder23; Jul 12, 2007 at 10:26 AM.
Post the model # of the subs please. Always give as much info as you can. Something else to consider here is summer time.....it is cooking hot out right now. The inside of a car is even hotter. Heat is a natural byproduct of amplification. This Rockford amp is a class AB amp and dishes aout a copious ampount of heat when tasked to run a subwoofer system hard and long. It may not be in your best interest to purchase a class AB type amplifier to drive your subs with.
A far better option is a class D amplifier, it operates much cooler, delivering as much or more power and will definitely be able to be played far longer at the same volume level before and if it goes into thermal protection.
Thermal protection is a circuit in the amp that shuts the amp down when it starts to get to hot. It is a much more prevalent issue in the summer and with a class AB amp.
A far better option is a class D amplifier, it operates much cooler, delivering as much or more power and will definitely be able to be played far longer at the same volume level before and if it goes into thermal protection.
Thermal protection is a circuit in the amp that shuts the amp down when it starts to get to hot. It is a much more prevalent issue in the summer and with a class AB amp.
they're 2 - JL 12W3V2
yeah, i understand that a D is a better choice - but for now this is what i'm working with. my main question is whether i could run subs and components off that amp. 2 channels for subs, 2 for components - and does the amp auto-correct for impedence, say it's pushing 2 ohm for the subs and 4 for the components...? is that possible?
yeah, i understand that a D is a better choice - but for now this is what i'm working with. my main question is whether i could run subs and components off that amp. 2 channels for subs, 2 for components - and does the amp auto-correct for impedence, say it's pushing 2 ohm for the subs and 4 for the components...? is that possible?
Your subs are dual 2 ohm. Think of each sub as either a 1 or 4 ohm subwoofer. They are a total mismatch to this amplifier. If you keep them in a series setup, they will be a 4 ohm speaker per channel and get 100w rms to each. If you wire them each in series, your amp is going to shut down as it is not 1 ohm stable. If you wire them in a series / parallel circuit, it will yield a combined 2 ohm load and you must bridge the amp channels to wire properly. Next issue is that your amplifier is not 2 ohm mono stable and wiring like this will send the amp into thermal protection really darn quick and may eventually cause the amplifier to fail.
Reading between the lines, it looks like you are getting a good deal on this amp. Remember this, the deal is only as good as the application. Your application makes this by far the wrong amplifier.
Reading between the lines, it looks like you are getting a good deal on this amp. Remember this, the deal is only as good as the application. Your application makes this by far the wrong amplifier.
yeah, it's looking that way huh! d'oe
so using that wiring configuration the amp wouldn't be stable you think?
ok, moving on - (for argument's sake) is it even possible to run subs and components off that amp??
so using that wiring configuration the amp wouldn't be stable you think?
ok, moving on - (for argument's sake) is it even possible to run subs and components off that amp??
The method above is the only way to safely wire the subs to the amp. Like I mentioned though, it is really not going to do the subs and justice at all. The subs need power in order to do what they are designed to do. I really do not think that this amp is in your best interest, as nice of an amp that it is.
*nodding* - i agree, wrong amp for the situation.
ok, i'm dying to know the answer to this - so let me know please - Would i be able to run subs and components off that amp. any multi-channel amp? Thanks.
ok, i'm dying to know the answer to this - so let me know please - Would i be able to run subs and components off that amp. any multi-channel amp? Thanks.
If your subs had been dvc 4ohm, we would not have had this discussion, the answer would have been yes. At the end of the day though, the next question from you would have been "my amp is hot and shutting off". Slow down dude, take some time and do things properly and save yourself potential headaches.
so the subs and components have to be the same ohm. gotcha.
so i guess a RF 500BD would be a better choice of amp? that's the other option.
well, ideally i wanted a JL 500/1 - but can't find any within my price range.
so i guess a RF 500BD would be a better choice of amp? that's the other option.
well, ideally i wanted a JL 500/1 - but can't find any within my price range.
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