Lspade69

iTrader: (2)

I own an Infinity 1300Wrms amp. When I first installed this amp the clipping-light would come on with each beat of the music and my lights would dim with each beat too. I saved up my money and finally got myself a new battery. I went with a stinger Power2 SP1000, the 1200 amp deep cycle battery. This beast ran me $263 after I bought the side posts and everything like that. I installed it right when I brought it home. When I turned my truck on I thought, "finally I will be able to crank my system all the way up". But my lights started dimming and the clip light came on with every low beat again. My amp did go from clipping at 20 to clipping at 30 but what the hell do I have to do to make it stop clipping????

I am using over 20 feet of 4 gauge wire to power the amp (the recommended is 2 guage if over 10 feet of power wire) but that shouldn't make too big of a difference am I right? I am going to upgrade to 0 gauge pretty soon but do you guys think that I will be able to turn my system all the way up without dimming lights if i do this 0 gauge upgrade?

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Electricity is an algebra equation. What you do to one side you must do to the other. Measure the ground return resistance to see if you have a good ground or not. Read my grounding sticky on this site, www.the12volt.com in the general car audio forum. My user name on that site is forbidden. Also read DYohn's Big 3 thread as well. Then you will have a better understanding of what is going on.

MarkB

voltage, voltage, voltage ..... Batteries are a powrer bank, not a power generator. Alternators are the fix as the PRODUCE power. 1300Wrms would need approx. 100-120 Amps jusr for itself ... thats if it really does 1300Wrms. So take your stock alt (probably 80-120amp stock) and then add the power needed for the amp and that is the size alt you need. Its scary expensive sometimes with people running high power amplifiers.

75grandam

well, as far as the clipping light coming on.....are you sure your gains are set right?