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Battery or cap?

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Old 07-15-2008, 06:58 PM
  #21  
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The power wire is 8 awg. But this 8 gauge I got off of ebay is smaller then the 8 gauge I bought at an audio shop. After wiki'ing the AWG size in mm seems the shop one is larger then 3mm. But the one from ebay is slighty under 3mm. Both are labeled 8AWG on the side.

When I check tomarrow about what the voltage is at the bat with car off (audio running) and compare it to the voltage at the amp; I guess I'll find out what the problem is.

Do you think I should cut off my solder job and reattach the power to my amps with a Terminal block?
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:00 PM
  #22  
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At a audio shop, whats a good/normal price for 8 Gauge and 4 Gauge?
One place I went to it was $2.5 per foot for 8.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:03 PM
  #23  
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weeelllll theres the prob lol 1 8 gauge wire for 2 amps outch i would run 2 8gauge line instead or one 4 gauge to a distro block

your amps are fighting for power ( suprised you didnt melt your wire yet)
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:03 PM
  #24  
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i paid 2.5$ a foot for 4 gauge and 5$ for 0gauge 8 gauge i dont know 1.5$ maybe??
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Njord
I have a 97 sunfire and I just finished installing a 10'' CVR with an alpine 400w RMS amp. I also have an amp that I built which outputs 100w RMS x4. (the power of class T )

So my lights are dimming, and I can not run my stereo with out the car running. (voltages dip into the 9v range )

so a cap would be cheap and easy, but a new car bat would be the better solution (from what everyone says) But I'm not running a huge amount of power and I think I could get away with a cap. (5 farads?) Also trying to buy a battery off the internet would be expensive to ship, and I imagine I would have a hard time finding one that would fit my car.

Links to where I could find a fitting battery would be awesome. As I'm not sure what I'm looking for. (Large Cold craking amps?)

What should I do, Battery or cap?

Thanks.
How bout a "power cell", or more specifically a Kinetik Power Cell, when I looked at these through their web site, they are basically a sealed lead acid battery with a high density construction that can be added to an existing system in parallel (no isolator) and fully replace a cap.

My dealer showed me one while I was putting together and pricing a new system, with 2 amps (150x4, 780x1, 1380 total), Kinetik picked their HC1400 power cell for me, this cell was about $ 369 U.S. according to their web site.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:14 PM
  #26  
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SO, I should redo the power/ground with 4 gauge. Damn, It said on the package "Up to 60amps" and it has a 60amp fuse.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:17 PM
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no just 4 gauge to a distribution block and then from there send your 8 gauge to each amps

the 4 gauge will be better to send power to both amps instead of one 8 gauge that devides the power in 2
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:25 PM
  #28  
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4 gauge to the distribution block and from there you can use your 8 gauge to each amp and ground also
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:25 PM
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oups sorry double posted lol
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Njord
I would do the big 3 but I'm not sure where those wires are on my car. More so the alt to bat, engine to car. I've never done this before.

Sounds like alot of work that I might not be able to do. (Like getting under the car, and finding new connectors that will work with my car)
Make friends with the people that you see at sound offs, lots of people that can help you with your install or recommend a good dealer that can.
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