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Best 12" driver with 750 watts RMS?

Old 08-12-2009, 06:09 PM
  #11  
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wow that was very informative but as im sure everyone else would say money is always an issue but if i do have a system that i really want i will eventually save the money for it 1 way or another i try my best. Space is unfortunately a concern if i were to run dual subs i would prefer a smaller sealed box as my trunk is already full with 1w7 and weight is an issue at the moment but by the time i get money for a new setup it shouldnt be much of an issue. Now if i up the power to 1500watts will i need to get an H/O alternator and possibly a new battery? if so where can i get a good alternator? my current alternator puts out 90amps i believe and i have 3+ volt drops during peak power demand(looking for some 0 gauge wiring for the big 3 and to run as my power wire)
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:18 PM
  #12  
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In a Sunfire (90A alt) I used a 1500W amp @ 1ohm and a 300ishW component amp, with stock electrical and it was fine that I know of, the lights never dimmed and the car always started but I never checked for volt drops, only the batt terminals would rattle loose. If you are not satisfied with your W7 on 750W, I don't think you'll be satisfied with "the best sub" on 1500W. There is almost no audible difference between 750W and 1500W, even if you use one sub with an SPL of 87, and another with 82 (my case, similiar dB's with eclipse sw8200 & RE XXXv3/670W vs 1600W). Definetly do the big three and use 1.0 wire. The rest is in the box.

If you're worried about space, Soundsplinter reccommends 0.3 cuft (ported) for the Rl-i 8", you could get four and use a 1.2 cuft box with 2000W, or hell, 8 with 2.4 & 4000. Upgrade your alt and battery after +/- 2000W.

Have you considered three ten's?
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:17 PM
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i havnt considered three 10's yet, i was told that if u want alot of quality with bass its usually alot better to go with a single driver:S so i ended up getting the w7 in hopes of some nice quality sound....how would u guys recommend running my w7 as a sq setup? switching to a sealed box and possible a bas controler so that i can adjust the bass and turn it up IF i wanted to? or could i possibbly do the same in my ported box with the bass controller? or should i jsut switch my sub altogether for SQ?

As for the lights they do dim significantly when the sub is turned up, its even worse because i have HID's and i can see them flicker, ive been trying to just keep the sub turned down until i get the BIG 3 done.
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ChristianM
i havnt considered three 10's yet, i was told that if u want alot of quality with bass its usually alot better to go with a single driver:S so i ended up getting the w7 in hopes of some nice quality sound.....
Using a 3rd sub over two only gives you 1.5db gain - hardly worth it if space and weight is a concern. Using a single sub over two for sq is again marginal and only at low volumes, when you start blairing it, one sub will not play as good as two. Get your wiring in order. Going sealed will lose you db's. Smaller boxes are less loud, but you need to do custom size enclosure work for what sub specs call for and modify the size if necessary to match application needs like over/underpowering etc. Bass controller is not considered sq application.

You have a pretty difficult task at hand. You want to be louder and cleaner, and you have space and weight restrictions, plus your electrical is weak. All this takes up a lot of effort and money, which as you say is an issue. You may be asking too much here. You wanna give very little to gain the results which would make a worthy improvement. You already have one of the top subs on the market, and getting a different sub will only satisfy your curiousity, but may leave you with bad taste in your mouth when you find out you just spent your money and got no worthy improvement, or even something that performs even worse. Someone gave you advise to get a single sub based on their taste and it looks like you're more like me, where a single sub will not do unless it is a 18", even two 10's will not do. I need at least two 12's. Of course, it is very dependant on amp power as well, and if you have the electrical to support it properly. Your system is as strong as it's weakest link. If you want to improve one item, look over your system and see if you need to improve elsewhere so your other upgrades will reap full potential. What you may want is sacrifice more space and weight, get 1500 watts of class D and I would recommend a regulated power supply. I believe JL makes the new HD1200. Better match your front stage with a reged amp as well, and no real need to upgrade the alt, just get the wiring done properly. Depending on what you drive it may be difficult or easy and relatively cheap to obtain 120-150 amp alt. Get another 12W7, seal them both for less space and arguebly better sq, and you will be in sonic bass bliss with tons of output, and if you feel like sq just turn down the gains on the sub amp. Done, and dont worry about money, you can always get some more. Do it right one time, and forget it. This will save you money in a long run, and will leave you content and not wondering what if...

Last edited by Sasha; 08-13-2009 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:43 PM
  #15  
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yea that sounds like a plan, im getting some 0gauge wiring soon and probably getting some Fatmat sound deadener to stop my rattles, getting the BIG 3 done ASAP when i get the 0gauge wire and looking into another 12w7 with either another HD 750 or just getting as HD1200 for both and also getting my alterator rewound to 110 amps, hopefully that will give me all the power i need! Thanks for all the help, hopefully ill have a system built and sounding great before summer ends or at the very least have the electrical worked out on my car and have 1 pounding w7
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Old 08-14-2009, 01:00 AM
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Good to hear. I would however discourage you from getting your alt rewound. It will jack up the high end output, but your idle output will drop, and that is what matters more. Getting a bigger direct bolt-in unit is much much much better, or get one custom built but make sure the idle output is also high. They will cost a bit more, but worth it. Simple cheap-way rewiring will not do, and other more heavy duty parts have to be put in like rectifiers etc. It will also help a lot to get a smaller alt pulley to rev up the alt speed at idle. Whatever you decide to do, dont cut corners, cause that will yield minimal improvements, and if you do everything properly, your system as a whole will shine. So what I am basicly saying, do it right to smallest detail, or dont start the project, and if you do it right, you will have real pride of ownership.
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