Dynamat alternative.
12-08-2009, 06:56 PM
#31
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 21
sorry "Father yulli" same amp and sub setup prior to installing Fatmat rattle trap. sub is positioned 12'' away from back of trunk faceing bumper.sub itself is 20 degrees off set to back of sealed enclosure. what I witnessed post install was a sense of bass having more spl(moderate0. better bass imaging infront of car(substantial). it felt asthow I put a much larger amp in my vehicle.( and I mean much larger)
seeing as a lot of studies conducted on the sound transfer integrity of the butyl compound are conducted at 300 degrees farenheit. wich is radiant heat applied....and the boiling temp of water is 100 degrees celcius ( a comical heat example). I highly doubt that a heat gun will compromise the integrity!!!!!
lastly I can't take anyone serious who says I'll bet such a rediculous amount of money before they make their claim....expreience of my mentioned install trumps the ignorance of you're assumption "Father yuli"
seeing as a lot of studies conducted on the sound transfer integrity of the butyl compound are conducted at 300 degrees farenheit. wich is radiant heat applied....and the boiling temp of water is 100 degrees celcius ( a comical heat example). I highly doubt that a heat gun will compromise the integrity!!!!!
lastly I can't take anyone serious who says I'll bet such a rediculous amount of money before they make their claim....expreience of my mentioned install trumps the ignorance of you're assumption "Father yuli"
12-08-2009, 07:04 PM
#32
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 21
P.S. in the future don't say that you'll bet $100000000.00 that such a noticable improvement was made....that is just patheti.
by the way. why would anybody in their right mind use an ashphalt based product in their vehicles interior? common sense and common knowledge such connect the dots in comparison of ashphalt-to-butyl .........
by the way. why would anybody in their right mind use an ashphalt based product in their vehicles interior? common sense and common knowledge such connect the dots in comparison of ashphalt-to-butyl .........
12-08-2009, 07:33 PM
#36
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 82
You'd be suprisef about how many products have asphalt and other fillers. If they don't claim to be 100% butyl, they aren't. The companies that do make that claim have a lot on the line to lie about it. As an aside I just picked up a 52 sq ft roll of Raamat for $150 cash. 
12-08-2009, 07:48 PM
#37
sorry "Father yulli" same amp and sub setup prior to installing Fatmat rattle trap. sub is positioned 12'' away from back of trunk faceing bumper.sub itself is 20 degrees off set to back of sealed enclosure. what I witnessed post install was a sense of bass having more spl(moderate0. better bass imaging infront of car(substantial). it felt asthow I put a much larger amp in my vehicle.( and I mean much larger)
seeing as a lot of studies conducted on the sound transfer integrity of the butyl compound are conducted at 300 degrees farenheit. wich is radiant heat applied....and the boiling temp of water is 100 degrees celcius ( a comical heat example). I highly doubt that a heat gun will compromise the integrity!!!!!
lastly I can't take anyone serious who says I'll bet such a rediculous amount of money before they make their claim....expreience of my mentioned install trumps the ignorance of you're assumption "Father yuli"
seeing as a lot of studies conducted on the sound transfer integrity of the butyl compound are conducted at 300 degrees farenheit. wich is radiant heat applied....and the boiling temp of water is 100 degrees celcius ( a comical heat example). I highly doubt that a heat gun will compromise the integrity!!!!!
lastly I can't take anyone serious who says I'll bet such a rediculous amount of money before they make their claim....expreience of my mentioned install trumps the ignorance of you're assumption "Father yuli"
but
bass does not = spl
louder sounding bass definately not = higher spl
my money amount was as redicilous as your 3 db claim, which i can tell you are not aware of.
where did you get your info about 300 degrees farenhite? Please dont say "Sound Deadener Showdown", cuz in that case you fail.
Not all sound deadener is butyl based, so you fail again.
and since most heat guns have low temperature settings twice that of the water boiling point..........your 100C example is fail. unless you were talking about your mom's hair dryer.
Last edited by Father Yuli; 12-08-2009 at 07:50 PM.
12-08-2009, 07:58 PM
#38
PS. I still wanna know your version of how applying tar and tin foil on top of metal in your car makes your stereo louder, even 3 db's louder, which is scientifically said to be TWICE as loud. I would really, really, really like to know your logical and technical explanation of this.
12-08-2009, 08:37 PM
#39
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 21
I don't have the requested information at hand. however a thorough research of all products will reveal interesting information! resonateing freqeuncies are absorbed and disipated through the deadener as apposed to the metal. due to mass and absorbsion properties of butyl...
aluminum skin reflects sound waves. depending on what is sound deadened and speaker location. waves can freely bounce to the desired listening stage. wich would be the drivers sound stage! (in this case trunk sub location). waves can't escape through the metal and are redirected to front of vehicle. I'm describeing the trunk install. works the same at all locations of car. for example door skin sound deadening. absorbs road noise penetration and reflects it back. and does the same for sound in the vehicle. why pay good money for equipment and have all your sound being directed out of your vehicle for the birds to hear? when it can be kept in the vehicle?
everytime a sound wave bounces the percieved sound is amplified..... for example a gynnasium has a loudness factor as apposed to the same gynasium being fully carpeted!
the back of my trunk has two layers of fatmat rattle trap extreme. no sound can be heard from my sub standing outside of vehicle in the trunk area. the 3db gain is from the waves that would normaly be lost transfering out of the trunk area in all directsions 360 degrees being redirected with assistance from the fatmat to the front stage of my car. spl actualy increases.....all energy produced has to go somewhere. and since it can't escape the fatmat membrane . the sound waves are reflected towards the front of the car. wich could possibly be greater then 3db depending on the extensiveness of the matting!
I position my sub 12" from the rear of my trunk faceing the bumper so the wave that is emitted and the reflective wave that is emitted hit the back of my trunk at the same time inorder for both waves to be symmetricaly bounced back to the front of my vehicle keeping the waves "direct and reflective wave in complete phase"
random positioning of sub and sound deadening extensively can lead to a loss in output if the direct wave and reflective wave are to far out of phase allowing for cancellation do to the very extensiveness of sound deadening. in this case I used fatmat. other products of "good quality authentic enginered acoustic damping" aka sound deadener reflect mass amounts of waves back causing trmendous cancellation if sub is not postioned properly
some people try to skimp out and use peel and seel...thats fine. it adds mass to your metal. there for eliminateing resonance! but has no acoustic damping factor in comparison to actual acoustic damping wich has mass and sound aborbtion and refective properties. "aka Fatmat. raamat,dynamat etc" and for the price and performance through "m own experience"!this is critical as I experienced this and so to have others useing the product. a 3db gain is very easily attainable.....since sound does not penetrate the barrier and is therefore forced to be directed back into the cabin as opposed to being heard out side of the car....that is where the 3db gain comes in....energy has to go somewhere. and since it can't escape the car or enter the car you end up with more sound in the car and less noise or no noise entering the vehicle.......
my fails are now passes! lol......peace!
aluminum skin reflects sound waves. depending on what is sound deadened and speaker location. waves can freely bounce to the desired listening stage. wich would be the drivers sound stage! (in this case trunk sub location). waves can't escape through the metal and are redirected to front of vehicle. I'm describeing the trunk install. works the same at all locations of car. for example door skin sound deadening. absorbs road noise penetration and reflects it back. and does the same for sound in the vehicle. why pay good money for equipment and have all your sound being directed out of your vehicle for the birds to hear? when it can be kept in the vehicle?
everytime a sound wave bounces the percieved sound is amplified..... for example a gynnasium has a loudness factor as apposed to the same gynasium being fully carpeted!
the back of my trunk has two layers of fatmat rattle trap extreme. no sound can be heard from my sub standing outside of vehicle in the trunk area. the 3db gain is from the waves that would normaly be lost transfering out of the trunk area in all directsions 360 degrees being redirected with assistance from the fatmat to the front stage of my car. spl actualy increases.....all energy produced has to go somewhere. and since it can't escape the fatmat membrane . the sound waves are reflected towards the front of the car. wich could possibly be greater then 3db depending on the extensiveness of the matting!
I position my sub 12" from the rear of my trunk faceing the bumper so the wave that is emitted and the reflective wave that is emitted hit the back of my trunk at the same time inorder for both waves to be symmetricaly bounced back to the front of my vehicle keeping the waves "direct and reflective wave in complete phase"
random positioning of sub and sound deadening extensively can lead to a loss in output if the direct wave and reflective wave are to far out of phase allowing for cancellation do to the very extensiveness of sound deadening. in this case I used fatmat. other products of "good quality authentic enginered acoustic damping" aka sound deadener reflect mass amounts of waves back causing trmendous cancellation if sub is not postioned properly
some people try to skimp out and use peel and seel...thats fine. it adds mass to your metal. there for eliminateing resonance! but has no acoustic damping factor in comparison to actual acoustic damping wich has mass and sound aborbtion and refective properties. "aka Fatmat. raamat,dynamat etc" and for the price and performance through "m own experience"!this is critical as I experienced this and so to have others useing the product. a 3db gain is very easily attainable.....since sound does not penetrate the barrier and is therefore forced to be directed back into the cabin as opposed to being heard out side of the car....that is where the 3db gain comes in....energy has to go somewhere. and since it can't escape the car or enter the car you end up with more sound in the car and less noise or no noise entering the vehicle.......
my fails are now passes! lol......peace!
