Help with Re-Doing my System?? Flat 10"??
#1
Help with Re-Doing my System?? Flat 10"??
Ok guys, I need a little help here
I have a '97 Mitsu Eclipse Spyder (convertible) and I'm thinking about re-doing my setup. For the longest time I was running the stock infinty setup until I blew the rear 6X9s and then from there the setup never sounded right.
The car has the following speaker locations:
Up in the dash - tweaters - max 2"
Front Door - 6 1/2"
Rear - 6X9s
Over the course of the past 10+ years, I've complied quite a bit of audio equipment that I would like to reuse if possible. Here's what I got to play with:
AMPS:
Precision Power 2075AM
Output Power at 12V:
2 x 75w rms at 4 ohms
2 x 150w rms at 2 ohms
1 x 300w rms at 4 ohms bridged
Orion Cobalt 265
Output Power at 12V:
2 x 65W @ 4 ohms
2 x 130W @ 2 ohms
Orion Cobalt 265XP
Output Power at 12V:
2 x 65W @ 4 ohms
2 x 130W @ 2 ohms
6 1/2" Speakers:
Pioneer - TS-A1670R - 3 Ways - 180W MAX
6.5'' Speakers - TS-A1670R
Kenwood - KFC-1679ie - 2 Ways - 160W MAX
- sorry couldn't find a link to the specs -
Kaption Component set
- couldn't find too much info on these either but there a set of 2 6 1/2" speaker with seperate tweaters and seperate cross-overs (they might be MPT-6.50" seen here Kaption Audio)
6X9 Speakers:
Pioneer - TS-A6960R - 3 Ways - 240W MAX
6'' x 9'' Speakers - TS-A6960R
Head-Unit:
Pioneer DEH-P7600MP (aka "dolphin deck")
Pioneer Single CD Players - DEH-P7600MP
SUBS:
2 X JL Audio 8W0 in a sealed box JL Audio Products: Subwoofers / 8W0
I currently have the Pioneer 6 1/2" & 6X9s installed running off the stock infinity amp. The tweaters in the dash are stock and still connected. I'm using the Pioneer deck along with the 2 JL 8" subs running of the PPI amp. I HATE the way it sounds. Since the car is a convertible, I can't even hear the subs and the sound seems very "tiny"
I think I’ve built up quite an arsenal over the years and I don’t want to spend too much extra cash to get this system sounding right. Since it’s a convertible keep in mind that space is an issue. I hear low profile / flat subs are good but how do they compare to normal style subs? I’ve been hearing that Pioneer makes a good unit. I’ve also seen the Kaption unit – how do they compare? Are they’re any other solutions??
Also, I’m starting to dislike my head-unit. Not cause there’s anything wrong with, just that it doesn’t match my interior too well (grey deck, black dash). I wouldn’t mind up grading?? I’m a big iPod guy and I’d love that Alpine deck - iDA-X001 but hate the fact it doesn’t have a CD slot. I also hate all the other iPod interfaces (ie: Pioneer) that take over the iPod (ie: scroll wheel disabled) and thus I'm at mercy of the deck controls. I want to be able to control it either way – deck and/or scroll wheel
Any thoughts on what I should start doing to correct my sound?
Also please keep in mind that I'm not a super SPL guy. I don't want to build crazy enclosures. I don’t want to wake up the neighbors. I don’t want people to hear me coming down the street. I just want nice clean sound that when I turn the tunes up I can enjoy the music using most of the stock mounting locations
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions
Peepers
I have a '97 Mitsu Eclipse Spyder (convertible) and I'm thinking about re-doing my setup. For the longest time I was running the stock infinty setup until I blew the rear 6X9s and then from there the setup never sounded right.
The car has the following speaker locations:
Up in the dash - tweaters - max 2"
Front Door - 6 1/2"
Rear - 6X9s
Over the course of the past 10+ years, I've complied quite a bit of audio equipment that I would like to reuse if possible. Here's what I got to play with:
AMPS:
Precision Power 2075AM
Output Power at 12V:
2 x 75w rms at 4 ohms
2 x 150w rms at 2 ohms
1 x 300w rms at 4 ohms bridged
Orion Cobalt 265
Output Power at 12V:
2 x 65W @ 4 ohms
2 x 130W @ 2 ohms
Orion Cobalt 265XP
Output Power at 12V:
2 x 65W @ 4 ohms
2 x 130W @ 2 ohms
6 1/2" Speakers:
Pioneer - TS-A1670R - 3 Ways - 180W MAX
6.5'' Speakers - TS-A1670R
Kenwood - KFC-1679ie - 2 Ways - 160W MAX
- sorry couldn't find a link to the specs -
Kaption Component set
- couldn't find too much info on these either but there a set of 2 6 1/2" speaker with seperate tweaters and seperate cross-overs (they might be MPT-6.50" seen here Kaption Audio)
6X9 Speakers:
Pioneer - TS-A6960R - 3 Ways - 240W MAX
6'' x 9'' Speakers - TS-A6960R
Head-Unit:
Pioneer DEH-P7600MP (aka "dolphin deck")
Pioneer Single CD Players - DEH-P7600MP
SUBS:
2 X JL Audio 8W0 in a sealed box JL Audio Products: Subwoofers / 8W0
I currently have the Pioneer 6 1/2" & 6X9s installed running off the stock infinity amp. The tweaters in the dash are stock and still connected. I'm using the Pioneer deck along with the 2 JL 8" subs running of the PPI amp. I HATE the way it sounds. Since the car is a convertible, I can't even hear the subs and the sound seems very "tiny"
I think I’ve built up quite an arsenal over the years and I don’t want to spend too much extra cash to get this system sounding right. Since it’s a convertible keep in mind that space is an issue. I hear low profile / flat subs are good but how do they compare to normal style subs? I’ve been hearing that Pioneer makes a good unit. I’ve also seen the Kaption unit – how do they compare? Are they’re any other solutions??
Also, I’m starting to dislike my head-unit. Not cause there’s anything wrong with, just that it doesn’t match my interior too well (grey deck, black dash). I wouldn’t mind up grading?? I’m a big iPod guy and I’d love that Alpine deck - iDA-X001 but hate the fact it doesn’t have a CD slot. I also hate all the other iPod interfaces (ie: Pioneer) that take over the iPod (ie: scroll wheel disabled) and thus I'm at mercy of the deck controls. I want to be able to control it either way – deck and/or scroll wheel
Any thoughts on what I should start doing to correct my sound?
Also please keep in mind that I'm not a super SPL guy. I don't want to build crazy enclosures. I don’t want to wake up the neighbors. I don’t want people to hear me coming down the street. I just want nice clean sound that when I turn the tunes up I can enjoy the music using most of the stock mounting locations
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions
Peepers
#2
the problem that I see, is the use of a good Box, tuned to 45...In this way you will enjoy the bass...I´d like to know if you have this space in your trunk: (cms.) 35x35x90...then I can design you the box. Now i will use 2 amps one to the front speakers and one to the bass. Using 4 awg to feed them. I thing you will have to use a 2 ohm d amp.
#3
No Trunk
I really don't want to put any audio equipment in the trunk. There's a small space under where to roof folds down. That's where I currently have the 2 8"s installed. The max size of that space is 28"W X 5.5"H X 11"D. I'm leaning towards getting rid of the 8"s and going with one 10" Keep in mind, I would also have to install 3 amps (listed above) in that location as well
Peepers
Peepers
#4
Ok then use, two amps, only, since the back speakers won´t make the big change in your actual sound. The big one to a woofer, and the other to the mid´s.
Theres one new speaker, i know two trades pionner and clarion, the flat ones.
They use a very small box.
pionner is ts-sw1241 d.
Theres one new speaker, i know two trades pionner and clarion, the flat ones.
They use a very small box.
pionner is ts-sw1241 d.
#6
Westec, i know this car like the back of my hand and your description of "take the plastic panel off, and between the bars in the back, under the roof" makes no sense to me? Are you refering to space under the roof?
Also, what did you mean by "want to the your PPI amp?"
I guess I forgot to mention that this car is mainly a performance car. It sees many times at the track and any box that I make needs to be removed with ease.
Peeprs
Also, what did you mean by "want to the your PPI amp?"
I guess I forgot to mention that this car is mainly a performance car. It sees many times at the track and any box that I make needs to be removed with ease.
Peeprs
#9
http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli8_subwoofer_information.html
These 8" subs are very powerful and have really small box requirements. I heard 2 of these in a 1 cube sealed enclosure and they violently shake the car. You would need a good 600 - 1000W RMS mono amp to run them but it will give you what you're looking for and more.
These 8" subs are very powerful and have really small box requirements. I heard 2 of these in a 1 cube sealed enclosure and they violently shake the car. You would need a good 600 - 1000W RMS mono amp to run them but it will give you what you're looking for and more.
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