jensen designs
Don't make the box out of .5" mdf - that's too thin. Build it out of .75" if you want to conserve space. Is there a slope of the back seat we could work with? The above suggestions I gave are for 1 sub. When you get back to me about the slope of the seat I'll post a new design for two subs with the slope.
To measure the slope, drop straight down from the top oint of the slope. Measure that distance and make a note of where that touches the trunk floor. From the point you found on the trunk floor measure to the base of the seat.
Now you have the height and depth of the slope, and everything else is easy to figure out from there.
To measure the slope, drop straight down from the top oint of the slope. Measure that distance and make a note of where that touches the trunk floor. From the point you found on the trunk floor measure to the base of the seat.
Now you have the height and depth of the slope, and everything else is easy to figure out from there.
You drew it correctly - your proprotions are off, but the idea is right. Vent the port up, and make sure there is about 3" of clearance between the top of the port and any other object (like the rear deck of the car)
Here is a general box design that will work well for you.
Using .75" mdf:
36" wide
14" tall
12" deep (bottom)
8.6" deep (top)
Two 3" diameter x 8" deep ports on the top surface.
In your measurements, did you compensate for the 6x9s mounted in the rear deck?
[ October 28, 2004, 08:05 AM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]
Using .75" mdf:
36" wide
14" tall
12" deep (bottom)
8.6" deep (top)
Two 3" diameter x 8" deep ports on the top surface.
In your measurements, did you compensate for the 6x9s mounted in the rear deck?
[ October 28, 2004, 08:05 AM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]
ya i measured it right. because thiers a pole that runs across my trunk so i measured that high. and yes it's sloped. and here's some pics of my first attemp with ply wood(bad idea to use this stuff).
and the side
if your wondering why thiers holes in the side, take one guess.
ya i was going to put more 5 1/4 in my trunk.o and i went and returned that mdf board so now i have .75 thick ness. i guess i should learn to read the guy said to use atleast .5 thickness he did'nt say i should go and make a box out of it.
[ October 28, 2004, 02:02 PM: Message edited by: lumina_kid ]
ya i was going to put more 5 1/4 in my trunk.o and i went and returned that mdf board so now i have .75 thick ness. i guess i should learn to read the guy said to use atleast .5 thickness he did'nt say i should go and make a box out of it.
[ October 28, 2004, 02:02 PM: Message edited by: lumina_kid ]
k i went and did a lay out of the box, and it fits. so now on to step 2 cutting and assembly. i kinda got an idea where the portsgo, they go on top right. and do i need to put a divider in thier i read about it helps the speakers.
No need for a divider. A divider would give the box additional rigidity. Also if one of the two speakers would quit working, the other speaker would still be working on the appropriate air space. But the divider is not necessary.
2nd. Do not install any other speakers in the sub-bax. The pressure level greated by the sub will cause the 5 1/4 to fart and crap out. Also, they're in your trunk, why would you do that?
3rd. Don't use plywood.
4th. Make your cuts much more precise than in your picture. Caulk ALL holes, and seams. The more holes that air can escape (other than ports) the crappier the box will sound.
2nd. Do not install any other speakers in the sub-bax. The pressure level greated by the sub will cause the 5 1/4 to fart and crap out. Also, they're in your trunk, why would you do that?
3rd. Don't use plywood.
4th. Make your cuts much more precise than in your picture. Caulk ALL holes, and seams. The more holes that air can escape (other than ports) the crappier the box will sound.


