L7 12's vs Type R 12's ???
11-17-2008, 11:56 AM
#11
11-17-2008, 08:13 PM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 364
But someone told me ( I dont want to say his name ) that if ur fuse amp's amps are 200 Amperes then u will be getting 2000 RMS or a bit less then that with this Hifonics Amp . Just want to know if there's anything related with my alternator. My old Crunch amp at 1200 RMS was getting 14.4 Volts when the car was on and it had 100 Amperes of Fuses. So if i put this hifonics amp with external Fuses it will be able to do 1800 RMS or so with 200 Amperes of Fuses right . Because my cars electrical is pretty good the wire going from the alternator to the battery is VERY THICK , VERY VERY Thick.
11-17-2008, 09:09 PM
#13
You sound like you are confusing the amplifier fuses with the inline fuse coming from your battery / power wire.
First, fuses are for protection.Thats it. Overload protection to be precise.
That big fat wire coming to your amp from the battery HAS to be fused because if something bad (like a dead short) happens, that big fat wire will go red hot, real quick, and probably burn your car down to the rims. Oh yeah, your amp will die too.
Now, the fuses IN the AMP are for the same thing, but on a smaller scale. Same idea exactly. The fuse blows (and breaks the circuit) before something starts on fire.
An unscientific way of ROUGHLY gauging an amps power is the number and size of fuses it has IN it.
A TRUE 1000 WRms amp should have darn close to 100 amps (or a little more) of fuses. Say 3 X 30 amp fuses for example.
If an amp is being sold as a 1000 WRms amp, but only has ONE 20 amp fuse in it, you can be pretty sure it is not 1000 Watts.
you can do the math on this to prove it, but I suck at math.
Hope this helps
First, fuses are for protection.Thats it. Overload protection to be precise.
That big fat wire coming to your amp from the battery HAS to be fused because if something bad (like a dead short) happens, that big fat wire will go red hot, real quick, and probably burn your car down to the rims. Oh yeah, your amp will die too.
Now, the fuses IN the AMP are for the same thing, but on a smaller scale. Same idea exactly. The fuse blows (and breaks the circuit) before something starts on fire.
An unscientific way of ROUGHLY gauging an amps power is the number and size of fuses it has IN it.
A TRUE 1000 WRms amp should have darn close to 100 amps (or a little more) of fuses. Say 3 X 30 amp fuses for example.
If an amp is being sold as a 1000 WRms amp, but only has ONE 20 amp fuse in it, you can be pretty sure it is not 1000 Watts.
you can do the math on this to prove it, but I suck at math.
Hope this helps
11-17-2008, 10:14 PM
#15
11-18-2008, 12:29 AM
#16
I hope you have just as VERY THICK, VERY VERY Thick wire going from the engine block to chassis for it to work properly, otherwise you can have multiple runs of 1/0agw from alt to battery, but if your engine ground has not been upgraded, then your thick wire will transfer as much as the factory ground is on the engine. Just so we are clear, cause I may have missed something here. Been known to happen.
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