igmiller

Here's my setup:

2001 Acura Integra with a fiberglass wheel well sealed sub enclosure.
Alpine CDA7995 H/U
Alpine PDX 4.150 powering Type R 6.5" components in front and Type R 6.5" Coax in Rear.
Alpine PDX 1.1000 powering Type R 15" Sub.
Streetwires 1FA Cap.
All 4ga wiring to cap and block, then 8ga to both amps.

Problem is that the 15" is not very loud in my opinion. The 1.1000 has an input voltage selector with two settings 0.1-1v and 1-8v. My deck puts out 4v but to run it without cooking the sub, i have to have it set at 1-8v. Even with the gains max out, it's not very loud.

If i do drop the input selector to 0.1-1v, it sounds amazing, buy i fear it will over do it and i'll be buying another sub (yet again, but i have nailed the volume of box now, before, not so much

I have looked around and found some crappy no-name line drivers, and some high end x-overs ect. I dont need anythign too fancy, the deck and amps allready have all the x-over i'll ever use.

Been really looking for just an straight in/out RCA voltage booster with a remote. I just want to increase from 4v to 8v with the ability to drop it down with an indash remote.

Any ideas? What are peoples thoughts on the Phoenix Gold TLD22? I know it has no remote, but might be what i am looking for. I can always use my decks SW level control as the remote.

Thanks.
Ian

JohnVroom

are you sure it is a 4v output, alpine has a lot of 2V outs. There should almost never be a NEED for a line driver... double check (though it sounds like you have been thorough) everything to assure everything is set up correctly.

If everything is correct, then I would just run it on the high gain setting (.1-1v). You can tell when you are overloading the input of the amp because you will hear distortion, I would use that as a guide rather than buy a line driver

igmiller

I have never tested the voltage outta the deck but it does say 4v right on the front. It's an older H/U from 2002 but those old decks still put the new ones to shame.

I orginally had a 12" type r running on that pdx amp and I cooked it in one day on that 0.1-1v setting. Could have been a combination of that and the box it was it. I had a 3ft ported box and only after i cooked it did i look at the specs and it required a 1.5-1.7 ft ported box. So i could have had too much movement combined with over powering the sub. But even the 12" was rated for 1000w but with the movement the 12" was having, any bit of distortion make it kick and touch coils so i burnt it up real quick.

i have since sealed it and reduced the volume down to 1.8ft which is spot on for the new 15. I know in a sealed box it wont have much movement compared to the ported, but i am nervous about tinkering with those settings again as they wont replace this one for free again. haha. was lucky i only had to pay 100$ to get upgraded to the 15 when they replaced the 12 for me.

I really just want to push that amp and sub to its limit then scale it back. Tough though with ipods and mp3s ect as every song is a little different and distorion can be everywhere. Not gonna help that with a line driver, but maybe i can tame it a bit.

jstoner22

iTrader: (1)

i say get a new box.

line drivers are generally just used to allow a lower noise floor.
i run a 1.1000 and 4.150 myself, and the 1.1000 EASILY has more than enough power for your one 15" type R.

go bigger and ported.

Tony Dehnke

Get someone to look over the system.. and to give it a listen.. everyones definition of loud is different.

How big is the box and is it sealed or ported..

I'm assuming you have checked phasing on the sub too etc?

Also - are both RCA's going into the amp working properly? One dead and you could be loosing alot there..

Lots of things to check

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

The older Alpine decks such as this one from what I recall made their 4volt preout at maximum output on the main channels only. The sub channel was weaksauce from what I recall. Audio Control will make a line driver for this but I would consider a different cd player at the same time. (blanket message to consider the Eclipse CD5030 while I still have it on clearout) as it is not that much of a jump from a line driver. I would bet that your system will come alive with it and deliver to you all the new content that people look for such as AUX input, USB, Ipod and A2DP Bluetooth.

igmiller

the box is 1.8ft sealed enclosure. There is a signaficant difference when i plug/unplug one of the RCA's from the the sub, so i seems that both lines are working.

Dont get me wrong, when its turned up, its loud. But my mids are right on pace with the sub and I expected it to be a bit louder. I am gonna tweak my gains on the mid amp to tone them down a bit but i know the subs maxed right now and would love a little more room out of it from time to time.

I know a ported box will be louder and my 12 was in a ported box but i sealed it up for the 15". Wanted to nail down the sizing and contain it a bit more so i dont cook it again.

Never tested phasing on the sub. Its a dual core 2omh sub and the bridge is installed. Is that what you mean? I know its not connected in reverse.

I love this deck as well. I am going to try and test the voltage coming from the rca's. I have the ipod connected from it and love the fact it's one of the few decks you can control from the ipod directly. Makes it much easier.

SOULMUSIC

iTrader: (8)

The tld22 is a great LD for the price, The adjustments are inside the unit however and each rca has to be set individually , so no balanced outputs I guess. You may want to look at the newer model SLD44 also, just for the extra channel for possible future upgrade/changes.

A small LD is cheaper than a new HU, but, a better headunit would give you better in-seat adjustment options like you want.

Audiocontrol also makes some cool stuff to control rear mounted gear(ld/eq etc) from the dash, but all that handy stuff would be wayyy more than a new HU

andreman

just set your gains properly, and scale back a bit. you dont want to blow another sub.