MuTT's Intrepid Build
MuTT's Intrepid Build
I've had a couple of requests for a build log, here's a partial one of the pics I have handy (meaning the ones I want to share)
Kind of irrelevant now as half the equipment is in the middle of being changed over, but I will update when and if progress happens.
Car: 2003 Chrysler Intrepid ES (modded to R/T)

Equipment:
Alpine IVA-D300 source unit
Alpine H701 Processing
JL Audio Amps
1000/1
300/2
300/4
Hybrid Audio L631-3 fronts
JBL w15GTi Sub (IB)
Build pics:








































Kind of irrelevant now as half the equipment is in the middle of being changed over, but I will update when and if progress happens.
Car: 2003 Chrysler Intrepid ES (modded to R/T)

Equipment:
Alpine IVA-D300 source unit
Alpine H701 Processing
JL Audio Amps
1000/1
300/2
300/4
Hybrid Audio L631-3 fronts
JBL w15GTi Sub (IB)
Build pics:








































it's debatable both ways, but my belief is mount as solidly as possible.
the purpose of mounting a driver is to prevent movement of the driver during impact. How would decoupling help this?
Any of the reasons I've read FOR decoupling all were because of door resonance issues or whatever, if the door is the problem, then treat the door, don't compromise the performance of the driver for the sake of not wanting to treat the actual problem (door)
Hope that made at least a little sense??
The test I did to convince myself of this was, I took an 8 inch midbass driver, ran it free air with the magnet up against a couch cushion (the small edge) ...then I pounded some michael jackson through it and listened.
then I did the same test against a wall in a door way and the difference was huge.
Some might argue that it wasn't the materials "bracing" the driver that made the difference but the materials absorbing/deflecting the rear waves.
Either way, with my pathetic little test, I managed to convince myself about the NOT decoupling a driver.
Last edited by MTT; Jan 21, 2009 at 01:33 PM.
remember the ONE DAY it actually looked like that?...lol
I think your install is quite clean....yes it may need some tidying but that's it....what about the scans 4's photos
Not sure how to answer that, the reason I did it this way is that I don't believe door speakers should be decoupled whatsoever.
it's debatable both ways, but my belief is mount as solidly as possible.
the purpose of mounting a driver is to prevent movement of the driver during impact. How would decoupling help this?
Any of the reasons I've read FOR decoupling all were because of door resonance issues or whatever, if the door is the problem, then treat the door, don't compromise the performance of the driver for the sake of not wanting to treat the actual problem (door)
Hope that made at least a little sense??
The test I did to convince myself of this was, I took an 8 inch midbass driver, ran it free air with the magnet up against a couch cushion (the small edge) ...then I pounded some michael jackson through it and listened.
then I did the same test against a wall in a door way and the difference was huge.
Some might argue that it wasn't the materials "bracing" the driver that made the difference but the materials absorbing/deflecting the rear waves.
Either way, with my pathetic little test, I managed to convince myself about the NOT decoupling a driver.
it's debatable both ways, but my belief is mount as solidly as possible.
the purpose of mounting a driver is to prevent movement of the driver during impact. How would decoupling help this?
Any of the reasons I've read FOR decoupling all were because of door resonance issues or whatever, if the door is the problem, then treat the door, don't compromise the performance of the driver for the sake of not wanting to treat the actual problem (door)
Hope that made at least a little sense??
The test I did to convince myself of this was, I took an 8 inch midbass driver, ran it free air with the magnet up against a couch cushion (the small edge) ...then I pounded some michael jackson through it and listened.
then I did the same test against a wall in a door way and the difference was huge.
Some might argue that it wasn't the materials "bracing" the driver that made the difference but the materials absorbing/deflecting the rear waves.
Either way, with my pathetic little test, I managed to convince myself about the NOT decoupling a driver.
I noticed you threaded it. How did you find that worked? Did you ever think of using a metal sleeve and epoxying it into place for your speaker mounting points? I've got small ones here that accept 8/32 machine thread screws that we use for when we mount stainless steel kitchen sinks. I thought of doing the same for a set of rings when the install was being done on my convertible, but being busy and a little lazy at the time I just machined them out of mdf.
Maybe I'll see what I have for scraps and machine one up. There maybe another project/toy car in the works.



