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MuTT's Intrepid Build

Old 01-21-2009, 12:39 PM
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MuTT's Intrepid Build

I've had a couple of requests for a build log, here's a partial one of the pics I have handy (meaning the ones I want to share)
Kind of irrelevant now as half the equipment is in the middle of being changed over, but I will update when and if progress happens.


Car: 2003 Chrysler Intrepid ES (modded to R/T)
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Equipment:
Alpine IVA-D300 source unit
Alpine H701 Processing
JL Audio Amps
1000/1
300/2
300/4
Hybrid Audio L631-3 fronts
JBL w15GTi Sub (IB)

Build pics:
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Old 01-21-2009, 12:43 PM
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sexy, just like yourself
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Old 01-21-2009, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Father Yuli View Post
sexy, just like yourself
Thanx baby
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:06 PM
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Wow! Very nice and clean!!
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:09 PM
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Interesting you're using solid surface for your rings for your components. Any benefit?
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by joef View Post
Interesting you're using solid surface for your rings for your components. Any benefit?
Not sure how to answer that, the reason I did it this way is that I don't believe door speakers should be decoupled whatsoever.

it's debatable both ways, but my belief is mount as solidly as possible.

the purpose of mounting a driver is to prevent movement of the driver during impact. How would decoupling help this?

Any of the reasons I've read FOR decoupling all were because of door resonance issues or whatever, if the door is the problem, then treat the door, don't compromise the performance of the driver for the sake of not wanting to treat the actual problem (door)

Hope that made at least a little sense??

The test I did to convince myself of this was, I took an 8 inch midbass driver, ran it free air with the magnet up against a couch cushion (the small edge) ...then I pounded some michael jackson through it and listened.

then I did the same test against a wall in a door way and the difference was huge.

Some might argue that it wasn't the materials "bracing" the driver that made the difference but the materials absorbing/deflecting the rear waves.

Either way, with my pathetic little test, I managed to convince myself about the NOT decoupling a driver.

Last edited by MTT; 01-21-2009 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:29 PM
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DUUUUUUUDDEEEEEE - I've been waiting for this since the summer...must of been a slow day at the office
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by avidedtr View Post
DUUUUUUUDDEEEEEE - I've been waiting for this since the summer...must of been a slow day at the office
LoL....not really, but like I said, had a few requests, it was previously posted on "the secret private" forum......lol

remember the ONE DAY it actually looked like that?...lol
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MTT View Post
LoL....not really, but like I said, had a few requests, it was previously posted on "the secret private" forum......lol

remember the ONE DAY it actually looked like that?...lol
That day was awesome....made me want to change my install!
I think your install is quite clean....yes it may need some tidying but that's it....what about the scans 4's photos
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MTT View Post
Not sure how to answer that, the reason I did it this way is that I don't believe door speakers should be decoupled whatsoever.

it's debatable both ways, but my belief is mount as solidly as possible.

the purpose of mounting a driver is to prevent movement of the driver during impact. How would decoupling help this?

Any of the reasons I've read FOR decoupling all were because of door resonance issues or whatever, if the door is the problem, then treat the door, don't compromise the performance of the driver for the sake of not wanting to treat the actual problem (door)

Hope that made at least a little sense??

The test I did to convince myself of this was, I took an 8 inch midbass driver, ran it free air with the magnet up against a couch cushion (the small edge) ...then I pounded some michael jackson through it and listened.

then I did the same test against a wall in a door way and the difference was huge.

Some might argue that it wasn't the materials "bracing" the driver that made the difference but the materials absorbing/deflecting the rear waves.

Either way, with my pathetic little test, I managed to convince myself about the NOT decoupling a driver.
So basically the (I'm assuming acrylic - Staron) solid surface you used, because it is far more dense than mdf, is defecting the rear waves vs using mdf which would absorb it.

I noticed you threaded it. How did you find that worked? Did you ever think of using a metal sleeve and epoxying it into place for your speaker mounting points? I've got small ones here that accept 8/32 machine thread screws that we use for when we mount stainless steel kitchen sinks. I thought of doing the same for a set of rings when the install was being done on my convertible, but being busy and a little lazy at the time I just machined them out of mdf.

Maybe I'll see what I have for scraps and machine one up. There maybe another project/toy car in the works.
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