Need help choosing a box!
06-16-2009, 08:31 PM
#11
Well, many people who own 7th Gen accords know that the only real option we have is to mount an aftermarket deck in the lower cubby holder (which I really don't want to do... not to mention I'll lose dual climate and steering wheel controls and what not). Also, having a second deck underneath the factory deck looks kind of ridiculous IMO. Unless it's a 7" screen (which I don't have the cash for). So yes, money is kind of an issue too.
06-16-2009, 09:28 PM
#12
I'm using a Stinger SALOC is a friends saab 9-5. It's not super expensive and it gets the job done resonably well. Just make sure, when connecting the wires to the LOC that you use the spaekers in your system that will produce the most bass. for example, use the rear 6x9's as apposed to the door speakers. for some reason, it seemed to help alot with the install on the saab
As far as the enclosure... its really equipment and user dependant.
What do you plan on running for an amp, and sub(s)
As far as the enclosure... its really equipment and user dependant.
What do you plan on running for an amp, and sub(s)
06-17-2009, 09:07 AM
#13
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 15
Hmm, I think you're assuming I'm planning on powering my speakers with an amp as well. My plan was to ONLY power a sub with the amp.
However, I did read somewhere during my research that if I do plan on powering either the front speakers or the rears, I should power the fronts. This is because the sub will take care of the bass, and the front speakers will provide a good offset in sound (referring to what BRG said above).
As for the sub specs, it's a 1050w rated at about 60-250 watts rms. I haven't decided on an amp yet. Not sure if I want a Mono amp for just the sub or a 4-channel that's bridgeable (so I can run 2 channels bridged into the sub and the other 2 channels to power the front door speakers).
However, I did read somewhere during my research that if I do plan on powering either the front speakers or the rears, I should power the fronts. This is because the sub will take care of the bass, and the front speakers will provide a good offset in sound (referring to what BRG said above).
As for the sub specs, it's a 1050w rated at about 60-250 watts rms. I haven't decided on an amp yet. Not sure if I want a Mono amp for just the sub or a 4-channel that's bridgeable (so I can run 2 channels bridged into the sub and the other 2 channels to power the front door speakers).
06-17-2009, 08:08 PM
#14
Hmm, I think you're assuming I'm planning on powering my speakers with an amp as well. My plan was to ONLY power a sub with the amp.
However, I did read somewhere during my research that if I do plan on powering either the front speakers or the rears, I should power the fronts. This is because the sub will take care of the bass, and the front speakers will provide a good offset in sound (referring to what BRG said above).
As for the sub specs, it's a 1050w rated at about 60-250 watts rms. I haven't decided on an amp yet. Not sure if I want a Mono amp for just the sub or a 4-channel that's bridgeable (so I can run 2 channels bridged into the sub and the other 2 channels to power the front door speakers).
However, I did read somewhere during my research that if I do plan on powering either the front speakers or the rears, I should power the fronts. This is because the sub will take care of the bass, and the front speakers will provide a good offset in sound (referring to what BRG said above).
As for the sub specs, it's a 1050w rated at about 60-250 watts rms. I haven't decided on an amp yet. Not sure if I want a Mono amp for just the sub or a 4-channel that's bridgeable (so I can run 2 channels bridged into the sub and the other 2 channels to power the front door speakers).
There are several units out there that can fix that issue, they range widely in price depending on how good a job they do......
Personally I would do the 4 channel myself.......amping your fronts will help maintain the balance between all the frequencies, which is a good thing.....
It also gives you Xover functionality that enables you to remove bass frequencies from the smaller front speakers (which raises their power handling capability) as well as low-pass for the sub. HTH
06-19-2009, 04:17 PM
#15
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 103
If you're using a LOC, I wouldn't amp your mid/hi speakers. They will sound like crap for sure. You can get away with it with a sub, but not mid/hi's, maybe if you bought a very expensive LOC, but for what you're planning don't bother.
For guys in your situation, I would sell them the Planet Audio EC-10. Which was a decent full function line output converter/crossover that has a subwoofer level control as well. Perfect for guys looking to use a factory deck with a subwoofer. I installed quite a few and as long as you set the gains properly the subwoofer sound quality is quite good.
Planet Audio still builds this unit but it is now the EC-10B, the details are below:
PLANET AUDIO | YOUR FINAL DESTINATION]
Here's one on ebay for $44 buy it now NIB. You can't go wrong with that.
2 WAY PLANET AUDIO ELECTRONIC CROSSOVER W/ SUB CONTROL - eBay (item 390057049922 end time Jul-03-09 13:51:21 PDT)
Lyle
For guys in your situation, I would sell them the Planet Audio EC-10. Which was a decent full function line output converter/crossover that has a subwoofer level control as well. Perfect for guys looking to use a factory deck with a subwoofer. I installed quite a few and as long as you set the gains properly the subwoofer sound quality is quite good.
Planet Audio still builds this unit but it is now the EC-10B, the details are below:
PLANET AUDIO | YOUR FINAL DESTINATION]
Here's one on ebay for $44 buy it now NIB. You can't go wrong with that.
2 WAY PLANET AUDIO ELECTRONIC CROSSOVER W/ SUB CONTROL - eBay (item 390057049922 end time Jul-03-09 13:51:21 PDT)
Lyle
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