Need Some Input
#11
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a completely sensless statement in regards to the original post, post something usefull or stop wasting space, and yes i was the one arguing vented boxes for midranges in doors and how does that in any way have to do with x-overs, passive or active, stick to the post or start a new topic
#12
Originally posted by defro13:
a completely sensless statement in regards to the original post, post something usefull or stop wasting space, and yes i was the one arguing vented boxes for midranges in doors and how does that in any way have to do with x-overs, passive or active, stick to the post or start a new topic
a completely sensless statement in regards to the original post, post something usefull or stop wasting space, and yes i was the one arguing vented boxes for midranges in doors and how does that in any way have to do with x-overs, passive or active, stick to the post or start a new topic
I think your the one wasting space, Derek of all people knows what hes talking about, he does this for a living and I would say its a safe bet that his advice is accurate, so quit trying to act like the "supreme car audio god" and stop trying to slam everyone elses advice
#13
Passives Rock! I use active crossovers at home when designing speakers so i can mess with the xo points, then i build passives from that. I also use actives in the car and in the pa to separate the subs from the mains. [img]smile.gif[/img]
#14
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Originally posted by ChevySQ:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by defro13:
a completely sensless statement in regards to the original post, post something usefull or stop wasting space, and yes i was the one arguing vented boxes for midranges in doors and how does that in any way have to do with x-overs, passive or active, stick to the post or start a new topic
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by defro13:
a completely sensless statement in regards to the original post, post something usefull or stop wasting space, and yes i was the one arguing vented boxes for midranges in doors and how does that in any way have to do with x-overs, passive or active, stick to the post or start a new topic
I think your the one wasting space, Derek of all people knows what hes talking about, he does this for a living and I would say its a safe bet that his advice is accurate, so quit trying to act like the "supreme car audio god" and stop trying to slam everyone elses advice </font>[/QUOTE]how is asking someone to stick to the topic talking crap and i would like to see the manual that recommens to use a 24db/octave digital x-over in your cd player with the analog 12db/ octave x-over in his amp, i also do this for a living, have for 13 years and i never questioned his experience, i am not acting like a god, the idea of active over passive in car in shared by far more people than just me, , think richard clark, think navone, both have forgotten more than you i and dwvw have ever known, question me, fine, question them, your a fool. i asked him to stick to the topic, the originator of the post asked if he should used the active x/over in his deck with the one in the amp and he shouldnt, he will cause uneccessary phase shift, this my friend is a fact of life in passive x-over, sure you can compensate for this in design but with active it takes that variable out of the ?
#15
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^ At the end ther you seem to be confusing 'active and passive' with 'analogue and digital'. Any analogue xover whether active or passive adds phase shift - and it's not that big a deal.
You were the one comparing passive crossovers to the devil. This seems somewhat nearsighted from an 'industry veteran'... [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
You were the one comparing passive crossovers to the devil. This seems somewhat nearsighted from an 'industry veteran'... [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
#16
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I was just comparing you running sealed or ported boxes because you said just because everyone runs free air doesn't mean it's the best for performance. Well it's the same with crossovers. The only reason why you would pick active over passive is for ease of tuning. Don't get me wrong, I have used an all active front stage many times, but I know I could build a better sounding passive setup, but it would take more time and money than just turning a dial so it wasn't in my best interest. I willbe using passives for my next car, and the crossovers are going to cost me more than the drivers.
#17
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passive x-over are in the analoge domain, digital is in the digital domain aka no phase shift, no confusion here. i was trying to make it simple for the post origiator to understand, but now that im talking to more sophisticated audio types i'll try to br more specific, analog phase shift=bad, electronic aka, chips, dial etc=phase shift=bad, digital(true digital)=no phase shift=not bad, phase shift is a very big deal in both car and home audio this
#19
Dereck, you have a mountain of work ahead of you to build a good passive X.O.
If you can get them...use M.I.T. caps. Best in the world...but they cost.
Solen will custom wind inductors for you...but again it will cost. Don't use inductors with wire guages smaller than 16 awg, you can hear the difference.
Use 25 watt 1% resistors if you can get them.
What the heck do I know...well this was my Dad's advice to me...he knows.
Adam
If you can get them...use M.I.T. caps. Best in the world...but they cost.
Solen will custom wind inductors for you...but again it will cost. Don't use inductors with wire guages smaller than 16 awg, you can hear the difference.
Use 25 watt 1% resistors if you can get them.
What the heck do I know...well this was my Dad's advice to me...he knows.
Adam