Noob Question...I think...
03-05-2011, 10:21 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 87
Reason for this is my current setup is running 300 rms at 4ohms to my 12" but my speakers are stock with no amp but still go pretty loud but any mid bass is just not there and it sucks because any high bass isn't there, especially bad for eminem or any DnB
03-05-2011, 10:29 PM
#32
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 127
If the only reason you are using a bandpass box is because you got a deal on it, I'd suggest buying, or building, a ported or sealed box before you did anything else. Set your crossover @ ~125-150hz and you'll notice a big difference. Then go from there.
03-05-2011, 10:48 PM
#35
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 127
Sealed - Best for sound quality and size constraints, but are harder to get good lows from.
Ported - Louder but need more space, and are able to hit lower frequencies. A good compromise, imo, of sound quality and low frequencies.
Bandpass - A.k.a. by some as the one note box. Typically used for SPL only purposes, usually designed to hit one note. Can be built to do a flat range of 50Hz (say 30-80hz range). But are generally known for really poor sound quality.
There is a lot more to them, but that's probably the simplest way to put it.
Ported - Louder but need more space, and are able to hit lower frequencies. A good compromise, imo, of sound quality and low frequencies.
Bandpass - A.k.a. by some as the one note box. Typically used for SPL only purposes, usually designed to hit one note. Can be built to do a flat range of 50Hz (say 30-80hz range). But are generally known for really poor sound quality.
There is a lot more to them, but that's probably the simplest way to put it.
03-05-2011, 11:13 PM
#36
Decent mid-bass from a 6.5" driver requires a fairly sturdy (ie. expensive) speaker.
The 80hz range is where you start to hear in stereo so it is better to mount them in your doors. I have used a dedicated MB driver in my last few vans (one of the joys of big doors) and love it.
It is possible to use the xover in your deck and on your amp to create a passband for those drivers but you would need 2 amp channels to run them alone.
I have done a couple of systems using 5.25" coaxes and a 6.5" or 8" MB driver with pretty good results. There was some muttering about not using components for the mids and highs but the extra work installing them to go fully active discouraged the owners from doing it.
Don't worry too much about enclosures for them, the air in the door will work fine for both MB and mids drivers together....they leak anyway so the air pressure buildup is not that big of a deal.
HTH
The 80hz range is where you start to hear in stereo so it is better to mount them in your doors. I have used a dedicated MB driver in my last few vans (one of the joys of big doors) and love it.
It is possible to use the xover in your deck and on your amp to create a passband for those drivers but you would need 2 amp channels to run them alone.
I have done a couple of systems using 5.25" coaxes and a 6.5" or 8" MB driver with pretty good results. There was some muttering about not using components for the mids and highs but the extra work installing them to go fully active discouraged the owners from doing it.
Don't worry too much about enclosures for them, the air in the door will work fine for both MB and mids drivers together....they leak anyway so the air pressure buildup is not that big of a deal.
HTH
03-06-2011, 09:50 AM
#37
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 633
The other larger problem with attaining midbass in your vehicle, is that the engineers who designed your vehicle know a little bit about psychoacoustics and therefore designed the vehicle to make its noises (engine, road noise, panel noise) in the midbass region, where it is very hard for the human ear to greatly differentiate. If they designed the car to "play" lower you would be driving to a low droning sound.
So in order for us "the user" to attain midbass in our music, we must also take a lesson from psychoacoustics. I am not saying that I am versed enough to be the teacher, by any means.
1) You'll need some power
2) Sound deadened, sealed, structurally sound, non resonant doors
3) A driver capable of producing wanted frequencies
4) Processing (xover/slope/time alignment)
If you could make midbass, like sub bass, everyone would have it
and if you can achieve it, your subs will sound better too
So in order for us "the user" to attain midbass in our music, we must also take a lesson from psychoacoustics. I am not saying that I am versed enough to be the teacher, by any means.
1) You'll need some power
2) Sound deadened, sealed, structurally sound, non resonant doors
3) A driver capable of producing wanted frequencies
4) Processing (xover/slope/time alignment)
If you could make midbass, like sub bass, everyone would have it
and if you can achieve it, your subs will sound better too
03-06-2011, 01:10 PM
#39
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 83
To get exactly the sound you want, yes, but then thats true of a lot of things. 
Just get a decent pair of midbass drivers, give them good power, and preferably use sound deadening in the doors. Chances are you will happy with the improvement.
For example, Im looking at getting some mach5 6.5" drivers, they seem to be a decent midbass option for reasonable cost.
One more thing Ill throw in, from what Ive listened to, coax speakers cant match discrete components for midbass, especially in 6.5". If anyone knows different, please give examples.
Just get a decent pair of midbass drivers, give them good power, and preferably use sound deadening in the doors. Chances are you will happy with the improvement.
For example, Im looking at getting some mach5 6.5" drivers, they seem to be a decent midbass option for reasonable cost.
One more thing Ill throw in, from what Ive listened to, coax speakers cant match discrete components for midbass, especially in 6.5". If anyone knows different, please give examples.
Last edited by prod; 03-06-2011 at 01:13 PM.
03-08-2011, 08:12 PM
#40
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 87
Ok so what's the main difference between say a 6.5" component speaker, and a 6.5" midbass driver, and a 6.5" subwoofer? size? frequency response? I'm not quite sure.
Also, are midbass drivers wired to 1 channel for BOTH or 1 channel EACH? and do higher frequency subs do the same as a midbass driver?
Also, are midbass drivers wired to 1 channel for BOTH or 1 channel EACH? and do higher frequency subs do the same as a midbass driver?
