pioneer shallow problem - need help
#37
Here's what you need:
1. Magic smoke protector a.k.a A PROFESSONAL INSTALLER!(get it done right so you dont loose your valuable smoke)
2. A new sub(face it you blew the old one and probably your amp to)
3. A new amp-get rid of the sony Xplod cause... they explode to often(get a d-class mono block as they are made for powering sub woofers nothing else)
4. For god's sake fuse your powerline(something a professional installer would have done)it could save your ride,your money and even your life!
5. Get it installed professionally
6. Get it installed professionally
7. I think you get the point.
1. Magic smoke protector a.k.a A PROFESSONAL INSTALLER!(get it done right so you dont loose your valuable smoke)
2. A new sub(face it you blew the old one and probably your amp to)
3. A new amp-get rid of the sony Xplod cause... they explode to often(get a d-class mono block as they are made for powering sub woofers nothing else)
4. For god's sake fuse your powerline(something a professional installer would have done)it could save your ride,your money and even your life!
5. Get it installed professionally
6. Get it installed professionally
7. I think you get the point.
#39
Is this your subwoofer? <<< LINK.
This is your amp. <<< LINK.
I'm going to reiterate what the other fellows have already stated...
Always disregard the Max Wattage rating on any piece of equipment. It does not apply to what we try to achieve with car stereo - buying equipment that will play with volume, clarity, and longevity.
The RMS value is the number that you should use to match components of your system together.
Obviously, the output that the 150 watts is giving you isn't enough. That's why you turned the gains/bass boost up on the amp to compensate for the lack of 'boom'.
I would recommend this amp. Pioneer Premiere PRS-D4200F <<< LINK
It'll give you 75W to your front speakers. And you bridge the rear channels to create 300W for a 4 ohm subwoofer.
Then you match a sub with an RMS of 300W to that amp. The first thing that comes to mind is the Alpine TypeS, the 10" or 12" are both 300WRMS (Watts RMS) drivers. If you'd like to stay with the Pioneer brand, then you could get this one.
TS-W257D2|D4 <<< LINK
The good thing about that particular subwoofer is that the sealed enclosure for this unit, is hardly any larger than the shallow mount. So you wouldn't be sacrificing any more space. And this one is actually less expensive than what you'd pay for the shallow mount, which come at a premium.
Some things to consider.
Also, have everything professionally installed. It'll save you a lot of hassle in the long run.
This is your amp. <<< LINK.
I'm going to reiterate what the other fellows have already stated...
Always disregard the Max Wattage rating on any piece of equipment. It does not apply to what we try to achieve with car stereo - buying equipment that will play with volume, clarity, and longevity.
The RMS value is the number that you should use to match components of your system together.
Obviously, the output that the 150 watts is giving you isn't enough. That's why you turned the gains/bass boost up on the amp to compensate for the lack of 'boom'.
I would recommend this amp. Pioneer Premiere PRS-D4200F <<< LINK
It'll give you 75W to your front speakers. And you bridge the rear channels to create 300W for a 4 ohm subwoofer.
Then you match a sub with an RMS of 300W to that amp. The first thing that comes to mind is the Alpine TypeS, the 10" or 12" are both 300WRMS (Watts RMS) drivers. If you'd like to stay with the Pioneer brand, then you could get this one.
TS-W257D2|D4 <<< LINK
The good thing about that particular subwoofer is that the sealed enclosure for this unit, is hardly any larger than the shallow mount. So you wouldn't be sacrificing any more space. And this one is actually less expensive than what you'd pay for the shallow mount, which come at a premium.
Some things to consider.
Also, have everything professionally installed. It'll save you a lot of hassle in the long run.