Power acoustik
04-25-2007, 09:39 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Creamedweasel
I have listened to all of those products. I got a bunch of buddies and since I'm working retail, albeit not in audio retail, I meet a whole load of people that have all of them in their cars aswell. While a lot of great sounds come out of how everything is setup and installed, the better brand names always seem to have that sweet crispness to them at the end of the day.
see now that was a better answer and I have more respect for you. I can't stand when someone bashes a product and thinks it is ok to do so. Everyone has a budget and they will by the product they can afford. I admit you ge twhat you pay for and some products do give you more than you pay for. You just have to be open minded.
04-29-2007, 10:17 PM
#15
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 149
Originally Posted by worldind
I actually clamped my power acoustik a2400db today. Here's a video of it... just multiply the figures on both meters for the RMS wattage. This was at a half ohm nominal, rising to just over 1 ohm.
PA Video
PA Video
04-30-2007, 12:56 AM
#16
The a2400db is rated at 1800rms at 1 ohm, and those are both true rms meters with the car running (14.x volts)... It's about as accurate as I'm gonna get. It was doing a little over what it was rated for, the burp was at 65hz.
04-30-2007, 02:36 AM
#17
I think the first problem with that test is that you have your meters on peak hold and have them already turned on while you start the burp..... that will give a 'maximum' output which will depend on the response time of the meter... a continuous or average reading is usually more meaningfull...
Also because your subs have inductance and capacitance there will be a phase angle between the voltage and the current and your numbers will be inflated from what the amp is really doing.... you would need a power meter to measure output accuratly... or you would at least need to consider what the power factor is...
its a much better idea to use non inductive resistors for a test... do the burp untill your battery voltage levels out then turn on your meters and take the average values....
Also because your subs have inductance and capacitance there will be a phase angle between the voltage and the current and your numbers will be inflated from what the amp is really doing.... you would need a power meter to measure output accuratly... or you would at least need to consider what the power factor is...
its a much better idea to use non inductive resistors for a test... do the burp untill your battery voltage levels out then turn on your meters and take the average values....
04-30-2007, 02:43 AM
#18
That stuff's beyond me, but like I say, the extent of my test is about as accurate as I can get... for a ballpark figure. I don't have the wherewithal or equipment to account for any other factors. I've seen a lot of other people do it that way and figured it must be somewhat meaningul.
Last edited by worldind; 04-30-2007 at 02:46 AM.
04-30-2007, 06:58 AM
#19
.
i have a ov2 820 i think was the model it was a 2 channel that did 450rms at 4 ohm mono... i had a kicker L5 dual 4 ohm so it was either 8 ohm or 2 ohm final load. well i put it to 2 ohm and the amp never shut down got hot but notting to call mom about i was surprized.. but for the price that i paid i could have got a kicker kx400.1 but i was young at that time and went for the "flash" of the amp (looks)
04-30-2007, 10:18 PM
#20
Ahhhh, worldind you just need to revise your procedures a bit.....
for an accurate reading I would take the average voltage over a second or more, turning the meters on after you start the burp.... and with steady voltage from the battery/alt for that second or whatever period you take the measurement for...
And as I said, with a reactive load you are reading apparent power.... not real power....
circuit city has 10w non inductive resistors and you can order larger 25w ones from parts express or where ever on the net that you can drop into a jar of distilled water or vegtable oil and they will handle much much more power and will act as a good dummy load to get a true reading
feel free to pass that onto anyone reporting output of some of the other amps being discussed lately....
for an accurate reading I would take the average voltage over a second or more, turning the meters on after you start the burp.... and with steady voltage from the battery/alt for that second or whatever period you take the measurement for...
And as I said, with a reactive load you are reading apparent power.... not real power....
circuit city has 10w non inductive resistors and you can order larger 25w ones from parts express or where ever on the net that you can drop into a jar of distilled water or vegtable oil and they will handle much much more power and will act as a good dummy load to get a true reading
feel free to pass that onto anyone reporting output of some of the other amps being discussed lately....
Last edited by Haunz; 04-30-2007 at 10:20 PM.
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