Remote wire to 3 amplifiers.
09-17-2009, 05:09 PM
#11
what is the worse that can happen if i piggy back the remote from amp to amp?
how difficult is it to relay and then fuse the power to the relay at 5amps?
sorry for the noob questions but we all have to start somewhere.
by the way i am having a very fun time ripping my interior apart and running expensive wires all over the place. i will post pictures once my set up is complete.
J
how difficult is it to relay and then fuse the power to the relay at 5amps?
sorry for the noob questions but we all have to start somewhere.
by the way i am having a very fun time ripping my interior apart and running expensive wires all over the place. i will post pictures once my set up is complete.
J
09-17-2009, 07:02 PM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 141
A relay is a must. Let me repeat 'A RELAY IS A MUST'. Princess audio has them for under $10. Trust me, I spent 5 hours tearing a customers car apart and to find out there was no relay with '3 amps' just like yours. Fusing the remote line is not necessary but wouldn't hurt.
Thanks for your help.
J
09-18-2009, 08:06 AM
#15
well i found this on BCAE...I've fused and relayed ever since.
Basic Car Audio Electronics
scroll to number 22 "head Units" on right side and scroll down past the diagram.
"Again with the fuse thing...
Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly. "
Basic Car Audio Electronics
scroll to number 22 "head Units" on right side and scroll down past the diagram.
"Again with the fuse thing...
Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly. "
09-18-2009, 08:24 AM
#16
well i found this on BCAE...I've fused and relayed ever since.
Basic Car Audio Electronics
scroll to number 22 "head Units" on right side and scroll down past the diagram.
"Again with the fuse thing...
Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly. "
Basic Car Audio Electronics
scroll to number 22 "head Units" on right side and scroll down past the diagram.
"Again with the fuse thing...
Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly. "
Again with the fuse thing...
Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly.
Last edited by avidedtr; 09-18-2009 at 08:26 AM.
09-18-2009, 10:36 AM
#17
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 141
ok you guys are going to have to walk me through this a little.
i have a very simple and clean install going.
4 gauge power wire from battery to a fused distribution block. one 4 gauge in/three 8 gauge out. the three 8 gauge out running to three seperate amps.
same thing with the ground. non-fused distribution block, one 4 gauge in/four 8 gauge out. only using three of the four outs running to my three amps.
my remote wire is connected to the head unit, its 18 gauge and i have not connected it yet cause i am stuck now.
so where exactly should i connect the Relay? near the head unit or in the back near the amps and distribution blocks?
where should i take the power and ground from?
do i simply solder three seperate wires to post 87 and send each wire to each amp?
thanks for helping me out on this.
J
i have a very simple and clean install going.
4 gauge power wire from battery to a fused distribution block. one 4 gauge in/three 8 gauge out. the three 8 gauge out running to three seperate amps.
same thing with the ground. non-fused distribution block, one 4 gauge in/four 8 gauge out. only using three of the four outs running to my three amps.
my remote wire is connected to the head unit, its 18 gauge and i have not connected it yet cause i am stuck now.
so where exactly should i connect the Relay? near the head unit or in the back near the amps and distribution blocks?
where should i take the power and ground from?
do i simply solder three seperate wires to post 87 and send each wire to each amp?
thanks for helping me out on this.
J
Last edited by Jazz; 09-18-2009 at 10:38 AM.
09-18-2009, 11:28 AM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 141
my ground distribution block has an extra out that is not being used so i can use that one to connect to the relay.
my power distribution has only three outs which are all being used, do i just piggy back a wire on one of the outs and send it to the relay?
also, what gauge wire should i use to connect to the relay?
thanks
J
my power distribution has only three outs which are all being used, do i just piggy back a wire on one of the outs and send it to the relay?
also, what gauge wire should i use to connect to the relay?
thanks
J
