Remote wire to 3 amplifiers.
09-20-2009, 11:43 AM
#32
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,855
Well since people insist on taking this post down this road, I guess we'll discuss this, again.
Ok - "with[in] 18 inches of source"
What is the source? The alternator or the battery? Both have electrical potential. If you are installing a single fuse, where are you putting it, and what are you trying to protect?
The answers to these questions lead to a decision: Either 'to be safe' one must fuse both ends, or one wires direct with no fuse.
As for the fusible link - from what I have seen, the only time I have noticed a fusible link in the lead from the alternator is when that lead goes to the starter first, and then to the battery. It is there to protect the starter, not the battery.
ok now were fusing both ends???
not needed on both ends just the supply with in 18 inches of source.
the oem alt wire on almost all vehicles is a fusible link which in itself is a fuse. to not fuse an upgrade is just asking for trouble..
but i do understand the spl fuse robbing point!
not needed on both ends just the supply with in 18 inches of source.
the oem alt wire on almost all vehicles is a fusible link which in itself is a fuse. to not fuse an upgrade is just asking for trouble..
but i do understand the spl fuse robbing point!
What is the source? The alternator or the battery? Both have electrical potential. If you are installing a single fuse, where are you putting it, and what are you trying to protect?
The answers to these questions lead to a decision: Either 'to be safe' one must fuse both ends, or one wires direct with no fuse.
As for the fusible link - from what I have seen, the only time I have noticed a fusible link in the lead from the alternator is when that lead goes to the starter first, and then to the battery. It is there to protect the starter, not the battery.
09-20-2009, 11:50 AM
#33
I never liked or agreed witht he "within 18" of source" Fusing should be as close as absolutely possible to the source. I see too many cars with the power wire being run somewhere it could it easily be crimped in a monor accident and having the fuse behind that point.
My friend Corey never got to drive his fully built K24 turbo swapped RSX because the shop relocated his battery to the back of the car.and fused it 18" away, but had the wire against a sharp metal edge before the fuse. 1 Car fire later and $43k in investment gone.
My friend Corey never got to drive his fully built K24 turbo swapped RSX because the shop relocated his battery to the back of the car.and fused it 18" away, but had the wire against a sharp metal edge before the fuse. 1 Car fire later and $43k in investment gone.
09-21-2009, 07:42 PM
#35
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 365
Well since people insist on taking this post down this road, I guess we'll discuss this, again.
Ok - "with[in] 18 inches of source"
What is the source? The alternator or the battery? Both have electrical potential. If you are installing a single fuse, where are you putting it, and what are you trying to protect?
The answers to these questions lead to a decision: Either 'to be safe' one must fuse both ends, or one wires direct with no fuse.
As for the fusible link - from what I have seen, the only time I have noticed a fusible link in the lead from the alternator is when that lead goes to the starter first, and then to the battery. It is there to protect the starter, not the battery.
Ok - "with[in] 18 inches of source"
What is the source? The alternator or the battery? Both have electrical potential. If you are installing a single fuse, where are you putting it, and what are you trying to protect?
The answers to these questions lead to a decision: Either 'to be safe' one must fuse both ends, or one wires direct with no fuse.
As for the fusible link - from what I have seen, the only time I have noticed a fusible link in the lead from the alternator is when that lead goes to the starter first, and then to the battery. It is there to protect the starter, not the battery.
"removed"
not going down this road.
good luck
Dan
Last edited by nghtrdr; 09-21-2009 at 07:44 PM.
09-21-2009, 10:19 PM
#37
i'm running two amps and a 80mm fan that is connected to the remote turn on and ground of my amp... and my wiring goes thru my door jam and theres no wire loom... i hope my car ignites as i type this message.
09-22-2009, 05:21 PM
#40
Goalie Man
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,412
my fuse is growing short on this topic....... if your remote comes off the deck...... its powered by an ic circuit in the deck,,,which will blow if shorted out or the current exceeds 250ma... so no chance of car fire...... at this point i suggest you bring your car down to your local chilliack future shop and let me fix it for you for a very resonable charge...
Last edited by goalie 35; 09-22-2009 at 05:24 PM.
