speaker bottoming out
04-02-2005, 07:14 AM
#1
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,423
well last night im going to work and got my music turned on to some rap just to get me in the mood to work. i have the bass set to max and the terbal to min. and i have the bass maximizer on to. so what do i do?
should i turn the gain down or just not have my bass up that loud. the last thing i wanna here is that i blew a speaker casue i don't have the money to go out and replace it
should i turn the gain down or just not have my bass up that loud. the last thing i wanna here is that i blew a speaker casue i don't have the money to go out and replace it
04-02-2005, 08:15 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Chunk, buddy, you're not going to get subbass style bottom end with 6x9s and 5.25s. I think you may be asking too much of your speakers.
As mentioned - turn off the bass maximizer, turn down the bass boost, and when you're all bummed that you have no bass you will realize you need a subwoofer.
As mentioned - turn off the bass maximizer, turn down the bass boost, and when you're all bummed that you have no bass you will realize you need a subwoofer.
04-03-2005, 08:21 PM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 113
Fundamentals:
The lower you ask your speakers to play, the greater the excursion they must reach in order to play those frequencies.
Small speakers simply don't have the excursion that subwoofers have.
As far as loudness goes, it's really more a function of displacement - how much air the cone moves as it strokes in and out.
Displacement is one part excursion, one part cone area.
And again - your small speakers don't have the excursion capabilities that subwoofers have - and they also don't have the cone area that they have.
...they also don't have the low resonant frequency... they also aren't in anything really resembling a speaker cabinet [which will inherently cause low-bass cancellations]...
...ultimately, there are a lot of reasons that you'll want to not only add a subwoofer - but actually use crossovers or electronic filters to cut the bass off from reaching those little speakers... because right now, they are choking and bottoming out not because they are playing as loud as they can, but because you are asking them to play frequencies that are bottoming them out.
You'd be amazed that they'll be both cleaner, and get even louder, when you do that.
Sure, it's a bummer that you will need to add a sub, it costs money...
...but there are inexpensive alternatives.
One of the best prefabs that I've ever used (possibly the only prefab that I've liked), is the Infinity BassLink. You can find them all day long for $200.
It's a 10" sub, in a tiny plastic enclosure, with a passive radiator on the other side, and a built-in Class D 200w amplifier.
Perfect for a mild system like yours.
The lower you ask your speakers to play, the greater the excursion they must reach in order to play those frequencies.
Small speakers simply don't have the excursion that subwoofers have.
As far as loudness goes, it's really more a function of displacement - how much air the cone moves as it strokes in and out.
Displacement is one part excursion, one part cone area.
And again - your small speakers don't have the excursion capabilities that subwoofers have - and they also don't have the cone area that they have.
...they also don't have the low resonant frequency... they also aren't in anything really resembling a speaker cabinet [which will inherently cause low-bass cancellations]...
...ultimately, there are a lot of reasons that you'll want to not only add a subwoofer - but actually use crossovers or electronic filters to cut the bass off from reaching those little speakers... because right now, they are choking and bottoming out not because they are playing as loud as they can, but because you are asking them to play frequencies that are bottoming them out.
You'd be amazed that they'll be both cleaner, and get even louder, when you do that.
Sure, it's a bummer that you will need to add a sub, it costs money...
...but there are inexpensive alternatives.
One of the best prefabs that I've ever used (possibly the only prefab that I've liked), is the Infinity BassLink. You can find them all day long for $200.
It's a 10" sub, in a tiny plastic enclosure, with a passive radiator on the other side, and a built-in Class D 200w amplifier.
Perfect for a mild system like yours.
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