General Discussion General discussion about all things car audio, from pioneer, orion, alpine and eclipse.

Want to build a better system for my URS4

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-01-2008, 03:52 PM
  #11  
2000 Watt CAFz'r
iTrader: (3)
 
veeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,455
some more questions. Do you have rear seat passengers regularly that like to listen to music? What's your budget? Is this a project you want to install yourself? please give us a list of all the equipment you currently have, with model numbers. This will allow us to figure out what can used and in what capacity to form a system.
veeman is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 04:16 PM
  #12  
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
 
LynxS4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
Naw,, I guess if the passengers are in the back they don't need to be slammed with tunes. I don't really know what my budget is,I've already spent money that I'm afraid may be wasted, which is why now I'm asking the questions,,,so I don't waste any more.

I thought the rear speakers were 6.5's but infact they are 6x9,I carefully drilled off the stock Bose speakers and re-installed some Sony X-plode 6x9 XS-6942A in the rear deck.
-4 inch Pioneer front door two ways
-Alpine MRP F257 ( Old Oringinal amp )
-Scosche 500 watt
-2 Bass Worx 600w 10 inch
- Alpine head unit model# above post

I'm not opposed to building fiberglass enclosure. I don't need to have a system that can be heard in the next town either.
LynxS4 is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 04:56 PM
  #13  
1000 Watt CAFz'r
iTrader: (1)
 
danyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,978
that trunk has great potential looks huge lol as of speakers i cant really tell you what you like so really what you have to do is go to as many shop as you can and listen to everything you can get your hands on and then you will know where to head..

as of subs well i tryed audiopipe, clarion and i now have massive so i dont have that much experience in telling you whats that good out there although i had great success with my massive audio subs ( insane loud for the power lol )

i would put 2 or 3 12" or 2 15" if it fits and do a fiberglass in the trunk ( would look pretty sick ) and install your amps on the sides near your rear lights and figerglass around it to make it look like its part of the car check out the signature series stuff from clarion they sound great ( to me anyways lol ) worth a look at
danyman is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 05:12 PM
  #14  
2000 Watt CAFz'r
iTrader: (3)
 
veeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,455
the major flaw in this car's set up is the 4" stock front locations. You may want to look into getting some kick pods made for your front. It will be more expensive( figure 300-500 for well built kick pods, and another 200+ for front components), but given what you currently have to work with, this will give you a much, much better overall sound system. I would get a shop to build a proper box that's aesthetically pleasing (carpeted, correct dimensions etc...) for your subs...cost may be around 150.00-200.00. I'd use the deck to power the rear 6x9's for rear fill (since you already have them, and I like rear sound as well), and bridge the Alpine for 2x70 watts to run the kick pod 5.25 or 6.5" component set. You don't need to use the 4" stock location, unless you decide to go with a 3way component system using a 4" for a midrange with the tweeter close by, and the kick pods for a midbass (this could be a significantly more expensive system as 3 way comps are a bit expensive, though I've seen some for reasonable prices such as the atomic 3way, and can be troublesome to integrate sonically). Amps are fine, subs are fine, 6x9's are fine, deck is fine as well as you can get an external dual amp balancer if you need more control over your amps or to control the subwoofer lever. Just the front speaker set up, and a proper install should get you a good system. All in all, you should be able to do it for under a $1000.00 using most of your equipment. This suggestion is geared towards a balanced SQ oriented system and not a ground pounder.

Last edited by veeman; 06-01-2008 at 05:15 PM.
veeman is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 05:55 PM
  #15  
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
 
LynxS4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
How do you bridge,what does it do and how does it work?

Would building fiber glass sub boxes be the way to go, say one on either side of the wheel wells with the center open for more trunk space or not.
LynxS4 is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 06:35 PM
  #16  
2000 Watt CAFz'r
iTrader: (3)
 
veeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,455
I believe that amp you have is a 4channel. Bridging allows you to combine two cahnnels into one. Therefore, your four channel becomes a two chanel amp with double the power into each of the two channels. It's as easy as moving the speaker wires on the amp's output. Usually there are markings on the speaker outputs that show where to attach the wires for bridged operation. As far as your subwoofers, yes you can use fibreglass enclosures to reduce space requirements, though it's usually to reduce weight, or for aesthetic reasons as they still require similar space, but can be molded closely to the contours thereby allowing better use of space.
veeman is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 06:35 PM
  #17  
0 Watt CAFz'r
iTrader: (1)
 
abysil's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 47
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...stem-audi.html <--Clickyyy

Very similar thread. Looks like yourself and I are looking for the same idea of things. Click through a couple of pages, if your doors look similar to mine, you could cut a spot for a woofer up higher. I haven't done it yet, but am thinking it would sound substantially better than having the woofer play at my feet.
I've been looking around for some components to buy, and there are a couple brands/models i have my eye on, but have yet to actually go out and buy one or the other.

As for the fenderboxes for the subs, I initially had that idea aswell, and started designing a box that would fit in with the nooks and crannies in the side of the trunk (both sides of mine look like the passenger side of yours, with all the indented stuff). I think i somewhat managed to spec out a well sized box to fit in there, but it is very hard to actually piece it together and figure out how it'll fit. Then again, I have to design around a clearance issue with the hinge of the trunk, as it comes down a ways. Not like yours. You'd have an easier time working with that space.

Bridging will basically take two channels and make them one, so you have more power running to one speaker rather than less power to two speakers. As such, if you have 4 high outs from the H/U, but only want to power two speakers, you can bridge the 2 of the outs for one channel, and 2 others for the second speaker. Say you have your component speakers hooked to a crossover, you'd have your crossover + go to say.. front left pos. and crossover - go to rear left neg.

-Mike
PS. I posted this like.. half hour ago... but it didn't go through. Sorry if redundant w/ veeman

Last edited by abysil; 06-01-2008 at 06:39 PM.
abysil is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 06:43 PM
  #18  
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
 
LynxS4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
What car do you have?

Originally Posted by abysil
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...stem-audi.html <--Clickyyy

Very similar thread. Looks like yourself and I are looking for the same idea of things. Click through a couple of pages, if your doors look similar to mine, you could cut a spot for a woofer up higher. I haven't done it yet, but am thinking it would sound substantially better than having the woofer play at my feet.
I've been looking around for some components to buy, and there are a couple brands/models i have my eye on, but have yet to actually go out and buy one or the other.

As for the fenderboxes for the subs, I initially had that idea aswell, and started designing a box that would fit in with the nooks and crannies in the side of the trunk (both sides of mine look like the passenger side of yours, with all the indented stuff). I think i somewhat managed to spec out a well sized box to fit in there, but it is very hard to actually piece it together and figure out how it'll fit. Then again, I have to design around a clearance issue with the hinge of the trunk, as it comes down a ways. Not like yours. You'd have an easier time working with that space.

Bridging will basically take two channels and make them one, so you have more power running to one speaker rather than less power to two speakers. As such, if you have 4 high outs from the H/U, but only want to power two speakers, you can bridge the 2 of the outs for one channel, and 2 others for the second speaker. Say you have your component speakers hooked to a crossover, you'd have your crossover + go to say.. front left pos. and crossover - go to rear left neg.

-Mike
PS. I posted this like.. half hour ago... but it didn't go through. Sorry if redundant w/ veeman
LynxS4 is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 06:51 PM
  #19  
0 Watt CAFz'r
iTrader: (1)
 
abysil's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 47
=P Click the link. 1991 200tq 20valve. Not nearly as rustless as yours.... lucky west coast cars. It's holding up extremely well though. Quattro is a beast in snow =D. Powerful car, needs suspension replaced though. I enjoy driving it.
-Mike
abysil is offline  
Old 06-01-2008, 07:13 PM
  #20  
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
 
LynxS4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
It has a pencil eraser rust hole in it,I don't drive mine in the winter,,,that's what my truck is for.It is a blast to drive though.
LynxS4 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gen.Ben
Enclosure Design & Construction Help
20
07-08-2010 02:05 AM
bob_car_12
Off-topic Chat
4
02-11-2008 03:44 PM
Hardcore Rock Superstar
General Discussion
11
08-08-2006 02:37 AM



Quick Reply: Want to build a better system for my URS4



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:52 AM.