Would love some advice please.
Alpine SWX-1243D Subwoofers
Found this sub, 1000watt rms.. but its 4ohms.. wouldn't it be hard to get a amp that does 1000watt rms at 4ohms.. it'll cost a ****load right?
Thanks a ton for your help all.
Found this sub, 1000watt rms.. but its 4ohms.. wouldn't it be hard to get a amp that does 1000watt rms at 4ohms.. it'll cost a ****load right?
Thanks a ton for your help all.
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 723
Sirux, those are Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm subs. When a speaker is DVC, it means that it'll have 2 sets of speaker terminals. Wiring those terminals in parallel will bring the load down to 2 ohms. So now that 1000W x 1 @ 2 ohm amp is right on the money.
http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_SWX-1243D.PDF <<< Link to TypeX Owner's Manual.
Alpine is another great company that makes all the relevant information you'd need available. It shows you the recommended vented enclosure - measurements and all - that you could have someone build for you, if you're not able to.
Personally, I'd go with a sealed enclosure. It'll be smaller - 1 cu-ft according to Alpine. And with the amount of power you're pushing to it, it'll be super tight, hard hitting base. The downside to sealed, however, it may not sound as deep, and the life of the sub is decreased since a sealed box is a harder environment for the sub to exist in.
Determine how much room you're willing to give up in your vehicle.
I'm not much help in the way of a vehicles electrical system. Most of these guys will tell you to make upgrades. Chances are, somewhere down the road, you're going to want to add a pair of front speakers and a 2 channel amp, perhaps. Making the necessary changes now to your stock electrical system will allow you to integrate the new equipment in the future with one less thing to worry about.
Having said that, I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (comparable vehicle). Right now I have a 5 channel Memphis Belle amp. Its doing 80W x 4 @ 4 ohm, plus 680W x 1 @ 2 ohm for the sub. That's about 1000W of power that my amp could potentially draw current for. Realistically, it never does. Music isn't linear. I do have a capacitor. And I replaced my OEM battery with an Interstate Megatron (highly recommend this battery) last October.
If I knew of this forum when I started dabbling in car audio, I would have elected to go for the Big 3 upgrade, and perhaps save on the cost of the capacitor.
Look into the Big 3. Father Yuli's made a nice post about it - you should search it.
http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_SWX-1243D.PDF <<< Link to TypeX Owner's Manual.
Alpine is another great company that makes all the relevant information you'd need available. It shows you the recommended vented enclosure - measurements and all - that you could have someone build for you, if you're not able to.
Personally, I'd go with a sealed enclosure. It'll be smaller - 1 cu-ft according to Alpine. And with the amount of power you're pushing to it, it'll be super tight, hard hitting base. The downside to sealed, however, it may not sound as deep, and the life of the sub is decreased since a sealed box is a harder environment for the sub to exist in.
Determine how much room you're willing to give up in your vehicle.
I'm not much help in the way of a vehicles electrical system. Most of these guys will tell you to make upgrades. Chances are, somewhere down the road, you're going to want to add a pair of front speakers and a 2 channel amp, perhaps. Making the necessary changes now to your stock electrical system will allow you to integrate the new equipment in the future with one less thing to worry about.
Having said that, I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (comparable vehicle). Right now I have a 5 channel Memphis Belle amp. Its doing 80W x 4 @ 4 ohm, plus 680W x 1 @ 2 ohm for the sub. That's about 1000W of power that my amp could potentially draw current for. Realistically, it never does. Music isn't linear. I do have a capacitor. And I replaced my OEM battery with an Interstate Megatron (highly recommend this battery) last October.
If I knew of this forum when I started dabbling in car audio, I would have elected to go for the Big 3 upgrade, and perhaps save on the cost of the capacitor.
Look into the Big 3. Father Yuli's made a nice post about it - you should search it.
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 723
Good question. I don't know, lol. Just a basic 1 Farad cap. No LED readout or anything. Bought it from FM Audio here in Brantford a while ago.
I think I paid upwards of $80 for it.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Capacitors#
Have a look at that link. A Knukonceptz product.
Ask the other guys on the site if there are decent capacitors that they'd recommend. Expect to hear them suggest you do the "Big 3", either alone, or with a capacitor.
I think I paid upwards of $80 for it.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Capacitors#
Have a look at that link. A Knukonceptz product.
Ask the other guys on the site if there are decent capacitors that they'd recommend. Expect to hear them suggest you do the "Big 3", either alone, or with a capacitor.
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