Wall help/tips
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 29
Like Mark said, if you build a wall, the more sealed, the louder it will get. But if you don't seal it properly, you can actually loose much output comparatively to a trunk setup. It will act just like a box facing forward in the middle of the car, so cancellation will be a big issue.
You will gain output with a wall since you have less volume to compress. But the response for daily driving may suck if not done well. If you shoot for spl, you have to locate the port at the opposite for maximum score, but if you shoot for "music" you will want the output as even as possible IMO, so maybe the port in the center. With 1000w rms to work with, you could sell your solobarics and go with multiple, lesser driver, and go IB. That would be awesome, and not so costy
You will gain output with a wall since you have less volume to compress. But the response for daily driving may suck if not done well. If you shoot for spl, you have to locate the port at the opposite for maximum score, but if you shoot for "music" you will want the output as even as possible IMO, so maybe the port in the center. With 1000w rms to work with, you could sell your solobarics and go with multiple, lesser driver, and go IB. That would be awesome, and not so costy
Originally Posted by Mark@KanKar
Box dimensions don't really matter, just make sure you have the proper enclosure and port; it can be as shallow or as deep as you need it. Remeber, the better you seal off the area you do not want to pressurize, the better your score will be.
box dimensions will make or break it... sound is dependant on wavelengths(reflections inside enclosure) aswell as volume of enclosure and ports... there is a reason why enclosures are rectangular not perfectly square and symetrical
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Hof
hey spljunkie, how are you gonna secure your box to the frame?
I was going to use carrage bolts and simply bolt it to the body,But tonight I got the main box wedged into place so it is centre and even now...and the damn thing will not move how much force I put on it...I had the entire van rocking and shaking and never felt even a squeek from the box moving....
So for the moment,I will leave it alone...But if I find problems, then I will go ahead with the carrage bolt idea....6 1/2" carrage bolts,lock washers and locktite right the the box and body....
Please also keep in mind I dont daily drive this vehicle either,so I'm not to concerned about damage to the vehicle...If yours is a daily driver,I would be looking for a less obtrusive way to secure the box....
BTW...If you check that Termpro link again,I've got some more pics up....
Do you think I can get away with a ton of expanding foam to hold the box in place? I was thinking of sealing from the front trim panels all the way to the back, and if I do find any place to bolt w/o causing too much damage I will do that to. I know in an accident it won't be a lot of help, but I've heard people that have gone to crazy lengths to secure there walls and still fail. I just need the box to stay in place with a ton of expanding foam.
Guest
Posts: n/a
I would say watch how much you use....the rules state moderate use of spray foam....
With mine it wound up that it was such a tight fit anyway,there is no need to bolt it down...right now you can rock the whole van and it wont budge one little bit....
As far as the foam in mine,I used it on top and bottom and along the bottom on the back edge too,kinda like a little extra adhesion for good measure,but in all cases it only extends back maybe 6 inches at the very most....
Personally,I'd look at another way...
With mine it wound up that it was such a tight fit anyway,there is no need to bolt it down...right now you can rock the whole van and it wont budge one little bit....
As far as the foam in mine,I used it on top and bottom and along the bottom on the back edge too,kinda like a little extra adhesion for good measure,but in all cases it only extends back maybe 6 inches at the very most....
Personally,I'd look at another way...
Thats wicked that your box just stays in place. As far as rules, this is a daily driver, and I won't be competing unless a show comes up to gp which my buddy at visions says that might or might not happen. I won't be starting this till after final exams, so I got a week or two to keep peaking around and finding info on walls. If anyone has any more info or links that would be awesome.
I think I've finally figured out how I'm gonna get my wall to my frame. I only want the wall for summer since I will be boarding in the winter, and I will be leaving my middle seat out all the time and only putting my back seat in for winters. I will use 2x4's running parell bolted to the frame as my base, and I will only be using my 2 15's, so I was thinking of just building my box outside the vehicle, screwing the box to the 2x4's and using wood glue, and maybe even using some really long ratchet straps accross the middle seat bolts to the back seat bolts for extra support. After the box is in place I will make trim panels and use expanding foam to seal her off. Sound like a good idea?
On second thought, I was wondering if I could simply use 4 ratchet straps to hold my box into place. Yes, ghetto I know, but I was thinking that I would use where the middle and back seats hook onto those bars on the floor, and run a pair of ratchet straps to each of the bars (one pair straight back, one pair diagonally). Then I could just use some blankets or something around my box to seal it from the back, and then its like 15 minuts to pop off the ratchet straps, take off the blankets, and pull the box out. That way I could still do the odd camping trip pretty easy. Once again ghetto, but would the ratchet straps be enough to hold the box firmly in place?
