Budget SQ subwoofer?
02-13-2011, 01:25 AM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 94
Budget SQ subwoofer?
Anybody know any brands that provide clean, hard hitting bass while still maintaining a price point of say $250? I'm no spl competitor and I'm not looking for something that will be heard from blocks away. I just want something that will sound good and to be able to turn it up loud when I want to. :P I am looking for just one subwoofer, (12" or 15") for my LRX 1.1k, not sure whether to go 2 ohm or 1 ohm, if someone could let me know the pros and cons associated with different loads that would be great too. 
And any personal preferences for subwoofers that sound good and are loud as well are appreciated!
PS: I finally cooked the 350W JVC 12... been giving it about 700 watts RMS for a good 6 months... the thing's a beast! It still plays but starts to smell like burnt electronics when I turn it up haha, not saying I turn it up that loud any more. :P
And any personal preferences for subwoofers that sound good and are loud as well are appreciated!PS: I finally cooked the 350W JVC 12... been giving it about 700 watts RMS for a good 6 months... the thing's a beast! It still plays but starts to smell like burnt electronics when I turn it up haha, not saying I turn it up that loud any more. :P
02-13-2011, 10:49 AM
#2
If you smell something burning and the sub is still operating I would double check and make sure that is in fact the sub melting from being overpowered and not something else melting while you're assuming it's the sub.
A good amount of brands underrate their subs and playing music really isn't a big stretch for a 350W RMS Sub, depending of course upon the music you're listening to and the gain settings on your amp.
as for a $250 Sub I would personally look at something like PIONEER TS-W3002 in D2, wire it down to 1. I personally run this subs baby brother in my car which is 500 RMS and it just hits nice clean bass, I really like it. Personal opinion of course. There's an endless amount of manufacturers to choose from.
A good amount of brands underrate their subs and playing music really isn't a big stretch for a 350W RMS Sub, depending of course upon the music you're listening to and the gain settings on your amp.
as for a $250 Sub I would personally look at something like PIONEER TS-W3002 in D2, wire it down to 1. I personally run this subs baby brother in my car which is 500 RMS and it just hits nice clean bass, I really like it. Personal opinion of course. There's an endless amount of manufacturers to choose from.
02-13-2011, 02:31 PM
#3
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 94
If you smell something burning and the sub is still operating I would double check and make sure that is in fact the sub melting from being overpowered and not something else melting while you're assuming it's the sub.
A good amount of brands underrate their subs and playing music really isn't a big stretch for a 350W RMS Sub, depending of course upon the music you're listening to and the gain settings on your amp.
as for a $250 Sub I would personally look at something like PIONEER TS-W3002 in D2, wire it down to 1. I personally run this subs baby brother in my car which is 500 RMS and it just hits nice clean bass, I really like it. Personal opinion of course. There's an endless amount of manufacturers to choose from.
A good amount of brands underrate their subs and playing music really isn't a big stretch for a 350W RMS Sub, depending of course upon the music you're listening to and the gain settings on your amp.
as for a $250 Sub I would personally look at something like PIONEER TS-W3002 in D2, wire it down to 1. I personally run this subs baby brother in my car which is 500 RMS and it just hits nice clean bass, I really like it. Personal opinion of course. There's an endless amount of manufacturers to choose from.
I'm loving the pioneer from what I can see online! I read on a forum though that it doesn't punch very hard with mid-bass but hit's the low notes pretty hard. Can you vouch for this since you have its "little brother"? Mid-bass is pretty important to me in a sub because my 5x7s are only meant for fill noise, not for hitting mid-bass. :P
And for your comment about confirming that it is indeed the subwoofer that is burning up, I'll check it out today. Will there be any sort of visual damage on the back side of the sub if it is cooking?
02-13-2011, 02:38 PM
#4
I'm loving the pioneer from what I can see online! I read on a forum though that it doesn't punch very hard with mid-bass but hit's the low notes pretty hard. Can you vouch for this since you have its "little brother"? Mid-bass is pretty important to me in a sub because my 5x7s are only meant for fill noise, not for hitting mid-bass. :P
And for your comment about confirming that it is indeed the subwoofer that is burning up, I'll check it out today. Will there be any sort of visual damage on the back side of the sub if it is cooking?
And for your comment about confirming that it is indeed the subwoofer that is burning up, I'll check it out today. Will there be any sort of visual damage on the back side of the sub if it is cooking?
If there is sufficient damage you can press the cone in by applying pressure around the dust cap evenly and you *should* hear rubbing, if there's no rubbing it's probably fine but you can check the tinsel leads and if at all visible the coil for any discoloration. For example my Rockford subs have vents that enable you to with good light see the coil, whereas I have two Pioneer TS-W308's sitting in front of me and the cone actually covers the entire coil. Depends.
02-13-2011, 02:44 PM
#5
50 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 94
From personal experience the will play up to about 180hz pretty clean, beyond that and in to the 200's it starts getting a bit funky because you start getting some of the low end vocal spectrum which can mess with it. I run mine at about 120. If you need to fill the 200-500 range you may need to consider a different sub or adding a mid-bass woofer to your configuration.
If there is sufficient damage you can press the cone in by applying pressure around the dust cap evenly and you *should* hear rubbing, if there's no rubbing it's probably fine but you can check the tinsel leads and if at all visible the coil for any discoloration. For example my Rockford subs have vents that enable you to with good light see the coil, whereas I have two Pioneer TS-W308's sitting in front of me and the cone actually covers the entire coil. Depends.
If there is sufficient damage you can press the cone in by applying pressure around the dust cap evenly and you *should* hear rubbing, if there's no rubbing it's probably fine but you can check the tinsel leads and if at all visible the coil for any discoloration. For example my Rockford subs have vents that enable you to with good light see the coil, whereas I have two Pioneer TS-W308's sitting in front of me and the cone actually covers the entire coil. Depends.
And I'll check the sub, but I did push on it yesterday and I didn't feel any rubbing or scratching that SHOULD be present if the sub is bad. Also, there's a really nice view of the tinsel leads and voice coil from behind so I'll definitely pull it out and check it later. I'll get back to you with anything I find.
Lastly, what could be some other causes of the electrical burning smell? Just so that I know where to start looking.
02-13-2011, 02:52 PM
#6
Well, first of all, when running equipment near peak for a length of time you WILL heat the solder up and smell that bittersweet smell that you associate with electronics because it will off-gas a little bit.
Now if it smells like something is full on burning, which is a much more bitter smell than bittersweet, For example plug an old electronic in with an adapter that has too high of a voltage and let it melt, under supervision of course, anything with a board in it will suffice. Familiarize yourself with that smell as its pretty universal among electronics and then go sniff out the equipment in your car, If you find that something smells the same as what you just melted, that's what I'd keep my eye on as the culprit. Most common being the sub or the amp.
Now keep in mind these are just amateur methods of checking stuff out on your own. Nothing will ever substitute having your gear inspected by a professional or having it bench tested at a reputable audio shop.
Play safe xD
Edit: You can also test the sub with a multimeter for the Ohm load, if it's way way off it's cooked. I think within about .5 is okay on the total load. May want to have someone more experienced than me confirm that though.
Now if it smells like something is full on burning, which is a much more bitter smell than bittersweet, For example plug an old electronic in with an adapter that has too high of a voltage and let it melt, under supervision of course, anything with a board in it will suffice. Familiarize yourself with that smell as its pretty universal among electronics and then go sniff out the equipment in your car, If you find that something smells the same as what you just melted, that's what I'd keep my eye on as the culprit. Most common being the sub or the amp.
Now keep in mind these are just amateur methods of checking stuff out on your own. Nothing will ever substitute having your gear inspected by a professional or having it bench tested at a reputable audio shop.
Play safe xD
Edit: You can also test the sub with a multimeter for the Ohm load, if it's way way off it's cooked. I think within about .5 is okay on the total load. May want to have someone more experienced than me confirm that though.
02-13-2011, 07:39 PM
#8
Fi makes awesome stuff. I've witnessed BTL's as well as the Q in action so I imagine the SSD would be a great choice as well, I just hear duties are a killer. You could look up the American Bass XFL lol. Sorry, I'm biased like that, but they're awesome.
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