How is this for an SQ setup? My custom jetta..missing anything?
12-30-2010, 09:12 PM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
How is this for an SQ setup? My custom jetta..missing anything?
Not sure where to go for improvements. I was aiming for a respectable, medium power SQ setup.
In my 89 Jetta turbodiesel I have:
Pioneer P800PRS head unit
JL ZR Series Components up front in heavily dynamatted doors... tweeters raised and aimed appropriately.
Focal 6x9s in the back (just got them forget the model) with the built in crossovers. In carpeted 6x9 boxes.
2x10" Eclipse Subs in a custom box (tuned 37hz) made by fx audio. built perfect into the back of the car which was completely stripped and ripped for the purpose.
Power is from 300amp HO Alternator (110amp @ idle)
Optima red top front battery.
200amp Isolator (solenoid type, not solid state)
Trunk battery is Optima Blue top deep cycle.
Upgraded the alternator wiring, and battery wiring to 0 gauge, including multiple grounds up front.
4 gauge to the rear battery (a little light, but only for charging pretty much)
Lots of grounding in the back too.
Also used almost 100 square feet of dynamat.
- 2 layers deep on the roof, ceiling liner removed.
- 2 layers deep entire trunk including base, walls, top, and then sprayed over with 2 solid coats of rubberguard and bedliner.
- Front Driver and passenger door both dynamatted as much as could be reached. One good layer.
- Under back seat covered as well.
Sounded amazing even before I dropped in the optimas and the HO alternator.
I've ordered a decent 3.5Farad cap for the trunk too... and a remote voltage meter.
The amps are both heavily configurable. The 4channel is a JLAudio 300/4v2.. the eclipse is decent as well.. does a little over 1000wrms and drives the subs nicely. The pressure with the windows up can press your lungs down hard... and its tight enough to punch you in the back of the head, or tickle your feet depending on the bass. Crystal clear at 50 out of 60 on the volume dial.. unfortunately the Decibel meter in my smartphone tops out at 140db so i dont know how loud it gets inside the car.
What am i missing?
In my 89 Jetta turbodiesel I have:
Pioneer P800PRS head unit
JL ZR Series Components up front in heavily dynamatted doors... tweeters raised and aimed appropriately.
Focal 6x9s in the back (just got them forget the model) with the built in crossovers. In carpeted 6x9 boxes.
2x10" Eclipse Subs in a custom box (tuned 37hz) made by fx audio. built perfect into the back of the car which was completely stripped and ripped for the purpose.
Power is from 300amp HO Alternator (110amp @ idle)
Optima red top front battery.
200amp Isolator (solenoid type, not solid state)
Trunk battery is Optima Blue top deep cycle.
Upgraded the alternator wiring, and battery wiring to 0 gauge, including multiple grounds up front.
4 gauge to the rear battery (a little light, but only for charging pretty much)
Lots of grounding in the back too.
Also used almost 100 square feet of dynamat.
- 2 layers deep on the roof, ceiling liner removed.
- 2 layers deep entire trunk including base, walls, top, and then sprayed over with 2 solid coats of rubberguard and bedliner.
- Front Driver and passenger door both dynamatted as much as could be reached. One good layer.
- Under back seat covered as well.
Sounded amazing even before I dropped in the optimas and the HO alternator.
I've ordered a decent 3.5Farad cap for the trunk too... and a remote voltage meter.
The amps are both heavily configurable. The 4channel is a JLAudio 300/4v2.. the eclipse is decent as well.. does a little over 1000wrms and drives the subs nicely. The pressure with the windows up can press your lungs down hard... and its tight enough to punch you in the back of the head, or tickle your feet depending on the bass. Crystal clear at 50 out of 60 on the volume dial.. unfortunately the Decibel meter in my smartphone tops out at 140db so i dont know how loud it gets inside the car.
What am i missing?
12-31-2010, 06:40 AM
#2
... are you kidding me? Smartphones have db meters.... lmao ... Gonna have to get me one of them there new smartphons, lol. 
I say lose the cap... big waste of money, and is a draw on the system 99.9965% of the time. Just upgrade your main front to rear line if the big 3 is already complete.
I say lose the cap... big waste of money, and is a draw on the system 99.9965% of the time. Just upgrade your main front to rear line if the big 3 is already complete.
Last edited by DeadlySones; 01-11-2011 at 05:48 AM.
01-01-2011, 01:00 AM
#3
Goalie Man
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,412
please remove the rear speakers... that is your biggest problem.. will drag the soundstage to far behind you... there are no speakers behind you in any recording studio, nor are there any at a live concert.. think about that... the only time you need rear speakers is during movie playback or a few and i mean a very few dolby sourrround sound 5.1 dvds..
01-01-2011, 04:04 AM
#4
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
please remove the rear speakers... that is your biggest problem.. will drag the soundstage to far behind you... there are no speakers behind you in any recording studio, nor are there any at a live concert.. think about that... the only time you need rear speakers is during movie playback or a few and i mean a very few dolby sourrround sound 5.1 dvds..
trouble is, without the midbass and fill-in from the rear channels it just sounds like music coming right at you. the speakers are SO clear and SO awesome, and theyre tuned to exclude some of the harder hitting mids to cause less stress...
I used Digital Designs 6x9s before as rear fill carefully tuned and it really made it feel like a complete experience.
But before i do, i will pull out the 6x9s and try tuning the front speakers more thoroughly, to test your position... if i can get away with one set up front i can bi-wire them from the amp, run all 4 channels to them and really power them up. Still not sure about how that works...
Not the first person to suggest losing the rears... maybe I should explore it.
01-10-2011, 05:37 PM
#5
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 8
Adhdcanuck, Im picking up a 97 jetta turbo diesel, and I want to completely upgrade the audio.
My question to you is, where did you start with everything? Ive done a lot of reading, and watching of videos, but I just dont know where to start. I know about the "big 3" and buying a new battery/alternator. Also, please keep in mind I wont be doing any shows or competitions so Im also not sure how much Im going to need to do.
Im looking for one 12" sub (or bass tube. comments on this? Im looking to save some space), I will replace the rear and front speakers, and an Iphone compatible deck.
As far as fuses, capacitors, and an extra battery in the trunk, I have no clue if i need all that. Please help!
My question to you is, where did you start with everything? Ive done a lot of reading, and watching of videos, but I just dont know where to start. I know about the "big 3" and buying a new battery/alternator. Also, please keep in mind I wont be doing any shows or competitions so Im also not sure how much Im going to need to do.
Im looking for one 12" sub (or bass tube. comments on this? Im looking to save some space), I will replace the rear and front speakers, and an Iphone compatible deck.
As far as fuses, capacitors, and an extra battery in the trunk, I have no clue if i need all that. Please help!
01-10-2011, 07:01 PM
#6
Why did you mix and match everything? Why didnt you pick one brand and stick with it?
Except for the subs and amp for sub of course I would have stuck all with one brand of speakers and amp for the speakers.
Deadening sounds amazing tho well done and sounds like a lot of effort.
If I were you though I would keep the back 6x9 but actually install them in the back dash if you have one? Or is it hatchback?
Did you change thw tweeters or speakers in the back?
Why such a small wire to your battery in the back? I would run 0 gauage for that battery in the trunk and completely forget about the cap. Sounds like your very well powered as is lol. Just be a waste of money in your system.
cplhornby you need an inline fuse for your amps. dont buy a bass tube you will be disapointment in the long wrong spend the extra cash and get an amp and sub. a single 12" will do you fine in a proper box.
BTW I own a 1996 VW Jetta 4 door. So I am not just talking out of my *** lol.
Anyways cplhornby I wouldnt worry about the big 3 yet. A lot of people here talk about it cause they are running like 20,000 watts and sh*t lol. But if your just installing a small amp and sub you wont have to worry. My diesels battery is huge and powers everything just fine and so far its 900 watts rms. 500 for the sub and 400 for the speakers. And no dimming at all.
You dont need a capacitor most people on here are agaisnt them anyways. Nor do you need an extra battery yet. Keep it simple for now.
Look for the 12" that you like and want and decide on a budget and wattage you want. Look at the RMS on subs its a better way of deciding.
Look for an amp that has a little more wattage then the sub and keep it turned down a bit. You will get less noise in your bass if you have a big amp powering a smaller sub and keep it turned down a bit. You should never crank anything over 75% of its full value anyways. Ie volume on the cd player goes to 50 try not to go over 40. Not exact math but you catch my drift.
In the 1997 Jetta its 6" all around. You may have Boss system in it already. I changed all mine over to JBL. Except for sub and amp.
cplhornby once you get your car and have some money to start building your system create a new thread and call it your build log and keep people posted on what your doing and they will lend helpfull notes.
Also if you have questions just write them in your build log and someone will answer it at some p[oint. Keep posted with pics to keep peoples attention. Either then that there is a lot to tell you and a lot to learn lol.
Except for the subs and amp for sub of course I would have stuck all with one brand of speakers and amp for the speakers.
Deadening sounds amazing tho well done and sounds like a lot of effort.
If I were you though I would keep the back 6x9 but actually install them in the back dash if you have one? Or is it hatchback?
Did you change thw tweeters or speakers in the back?
Why such a small wire to your battery in the back? I would run 0 gauage for that battery in the trunk and completely forget about the cap. Sounds like your very well powered as is lol. Just be a waste of money in your system.
cplhornby you need an inline fuse for your amps. dont buy a bass tube you will be disapointment in the long wrong spend the extra cash and get an amp and sub. a single 12" will do you fine in a proper box.
BTW I own a 1996 VW Jetta 4 door. So I am not just talking out of my *** lol.
Anyways cplhornby I wouldnt worry about the big 3 yet. A lot of people here talk about it cause they are running like 20,000 watts and sh*t lol. But if your just installing a small amp and sub you wont have to worry. My diesels battery is huge and powers everything just fine and so far its 900 watts rms. 500 for the sub and 400 for the speakers. And no dimming at all.
You dont need a capacitor most people on here are agaisnt them anyways. Nor do you need an extra battery yet. Keep it simple for now.
Look for the 12" that you like and want and decide on a budget and wattage you want. Look at the RMS on subs its a better way of deciding.
Look for an amp that has a little more wattage then the sub and keep it turned down a bit. You will get less noise in your bass if you have a big amp powering a smaller sub and keep it turned down a bit. You should never crank anything over 75% of its full value anyways. Ie volume on the cd player goes to 50 try not to go over 40. Not exact math but you catch my drift.
In the 1997 Jetta its 6" all around. You may have Boss system in it already. I changed all mine over to JBL. Except for sub and amp.
cplhornby once you get your car and have some money to start building your system create a new thread and call it your build log and keep people posted on what your doing and they will lend helpfull notes.
Also if you have questions just write them in your build log and someone will answer it at some p[oint. Keep posted with pics to keep peoples attention. Either then that there is a lot to tell you and a lot to learn lol.
01-10-2011, 10:08 PM
#7
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 217
Sounds like a nice enough setup.
Like the rest said, ditch the cap. Your amps already have internal caps and your rear battery will smooth out voltage more than any cap ever could.
I'm worried when you say "lots of grounding in the back too", ideally all of your grounds in the back should connect to the chassis at a single point.
Like the rest said, ditch the cap. Your amps already have internal caps and your rear battery will smooth out voltage more than any cap ever could.
I'm worried when you say "lots of grounding in the back too", ideally all of your grounds in the back should connect to the chassis at a single point.
01-10-2011, 10:20 PM
#8
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
wow lots of interest all of a sudden cool.
Well, the smaller gauge wire was because i initially was going to run a small system, then got a deal on the sub/amp combo.
the reason i split thebrands was that JLAudio are total douche-hats and dont deserve a branded car. great gear, lousy company. and theres no reason to stick witha brand if you know how to match gear.
Now the 4 gauge to the back is just a charging circuit. It should never draw high amps because the battery supplies TONS of reserve capacity, it will just draw charging from the alternator which should never top 100amps so i left it that way.
I got a 3.5f cap brand new for stupid cheap... so i thought for looks it couldnt hurt.. if its pointless i dont mind using it, but if its gonna degrade anything I wont bother, and can sell it for double what i paid easy.
The main ground in the back is heavy duty, 0 gauge.. same with the main ground at the engine (0 gauge to block, #2 to frame and a grounding distribution block mounted directly to the steel chassis and connected to the neg terminal.)
the reason the 6x9s are in boxes is the entire trunk was stripped to bare steel then dynamatted to hell, and a custom box built thats so extreme it even notches around the seatbelt assemblies and the rear angle matches against the back of the backseats. A speaker in the rear shelf would need a mounting depth of less than an inch to fit
hehehe
cplhornby nice jetta... i'll msg you.
the whole car is pretty much wired and done, just beautifying it and doing a deck relocate from the centre console to the globe box in a custom built enclosure.
voltage gauges for both batteries and internal/external temp gauges going in the centre console deck space..
im also thinking of putting in a really small heater for the trunk, just to keep the temp up above freezing when i want to, and help avoid damaging those subs with winter use.
Well, the smaller gauge wire was because i initially was going to run a small system, then got a deal on the sub/amp combo.
the reason i split thebrands was that JLAudio are total douche-hats and dont deserve a branded car. great gear, lousy company. and theres no reason to stick witha brand if you know how to match gear.
Now the 4 gauge to the back is just a charging circuit. It should never draw high amps because the battery supplies TONS of reserve capacity, it will just draw charging from the alternator which should never top 100amps so i left it that way.
I got a 3.5f cap brand new for stupid cheap... so i thought for looks it couldnt hurt.. if its pointless i dont mind using it, but if its gonna degrade anything I wont bother, and can sell it for double what i paid easy.
The main ground in the back is heavy duty, 0 gauge.. same with the main ground at the engine (0 gauge to block, #2 to frame and a grounding distribution block mounted directly to the steel chassis and connected to the neg terminal.)
the reason the 6x9s are in boxes is the entire trunk was stripped to bare steel then dynamatted to hell, and a custom box built thats so extreme it even notches around the seatbelt assemblies and the rear angle matches against the back of the backseats. A speaker in the rear shelf would need a mounting depth of less than an inch to fit
hehehe
cplhornby nice jetta... i'll msg you.
the whole car is pretty much wired and done, just beautifying it and doing a deck relocate from the centre console to the globe box in a custom built enclosure.
voltage gauges for both batteries and internal/external temp gauges going in the centre console deck space..
im also thinking of putting in a really small heater for the trunk, just to keep the temp up above freezing when i want to, and help avoid damaging those subs with winter use.
01-10-2011, 10:23 PM
#9
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
oh and in addition to the big main rear ground theres a couple smaller grounds I had from an old system a 4 and an 8 that i added to the grounding terminal.
they were already run, and it never hurts to have more... kinda pointless but for now theyre just there.
when i go to do the final install of the second amp on the custom racks in back, i'm going to do a bit of a wire tuck, and depending on whether or not i end up using the cap will probably hide all my power and ground distro blocks down in the empty spare tire well beneath the sub box, build a box for the battery thats back there, and install a few LED spotlights and a strip, to illuminate strategically.
i should put up pics shouldnt i?
they were already run, and it never hurts to have more... kinda pointless but for now theyre just there.
when i go to do the final install of the second amp on the custom racks in back, i'm going to do a bit of a wire tuck, and depending on whether or not i end up using the cap will probably hide all my power and ground distro blocks down in the empty spare tire well beneath the sub box, build a box for the battery thats back there, and install a few LED spotlights and a strip, to illuminate strategically.
i should put up pics shouldnt i?
Last edited by Adhdcanuck; 01-10-2011 at 10:32 PM.
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