Starterwiz

I just finished a set of Polk Momo's in the doors of an older Cavalier.

The original speakers (Fusions) were installed on a simple baffle somewhat like yours.
I made a baffle/spacer to seal up the door panel and the difference is remarkable.

You mentioned earlier that you could "feel" the bass on the door panel. That's the clue that the energy is wasted moving the panel, and causing all kinds of phase issues.

The Momo's don't have that much more bass than the Fusions in the board, but the difference with and without the baffle treatment is easily twice the bass.
And the door panels don't vibrate either.

It took me about 2 1/2 hrs and a bit of material to make....a far cry from 1200.

I'll try to get some pics up later.

SUX 2BU

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps too an even easier, more cost effective method to get the speaker output to not be lost in the gap between the speaker and the door panel is to use some closed cell foam around the edge of the speaker roughly the same thickness as the gap. This would effectively prevent the sound waves from escaping through the gap and also prevent unwanted vibrations from still reaching the panel if a harder spacer like one made of MDF would transmit to the door panel if it touches it. In fact I've seen factory door speaker installations do this.

Starterwiz

Foam works if the space is close...I add foam to the MDF spacers as well.

Virually anything will work if it can block some air pressure....Beads of silicone, bodo, etc....just stay clear of anything that will sag or rum in warm weather like dum dum, although it works well too if you wrap it with tape or cloth.

A pound of plasticene can be had for a couple of bucks, and it will work very well to test and see if there's a difference.

Working "blind" inside the door, you need to be careful that nothing gets squished into the speaker surround, so a test fit with the plasticine is very helpful.

syang3

Does that mean anything that can act as air blocker between the speaker and the gap will work right? Does it need to be accoustic foam or any closed cell foam will work? I will probably go with the closed cell foam cuz with plasticine it's kinda messy..well, it depends which one I can get easier and faster. Where can I get plasticine and closed cell foam from?

SweetnLow91SC

i wouldn't use plasticine mainly of the properties. closed cell foam is a much better material for sealing... i bellieve Home Depot or most hardware place should have them. would you know how big the gap is?

syang3

High is definitely better, it doesn't hurt my ears now.

BTW, deflex pad is only installed one the driver side, I will install the other door when I got time.

How well does Focal plain chant work? I am guessing it's probably a lot more $$$.

syang3

I bought some thick closed foam tape today and put them around the baffle to create a seal between panel.




Installed on the driver side door. Panel needs to be pushed a bit to mount back in.


After I put the panel back and listen for couple minutes, I can say that it didn't help. I can not hear any difference in bass between left and right channel....


I also bought a nylon fastener to try out differenct tweeter locations:



and some wires


A pillar:


On the dash:


Near woofer (simulate kick panel location)


So far I like the dash better. Near woofer was ok too but image was kinda strange, vocals high up on the dash while guitar, drums are below and seems coming from the floor...Hish is smoother on the dash than any other location .

zzzzzzz

iTrader: (5)

have you tried on the apiller about 4" up off the dash?

syang3

no, but will do later.

SweetnLow91SC

Quite well actually..... less dynamic constraint overall, and no noticeble energy storage.

i believe they're about $100/box of 8. some cars only needs 4. (2 per side)