SweetnLow91SC

Here's a old pic of a TN-51 in the A-pillar that worked well.

syang3

It seems the tweets are about 4" up from the dash in the pic, just like zzzzzzz recommanded. I will try it tomorrow.

SweetnLow91SC

^ It usually depends how high the (Inst.. tech/speedo) hump is in the driver's side of the dash, so the tweeter don't get blocked by it in the pass seat. Actually it could be mounted lower if the dash allow it.. therefore longer path length.

syang3

I see, this is very helpful info. Thanks!

Starterwiz

Plasticene won't work as a permanent fix. It is very messy, but it will tell you exactly how big the gap really is.

That is way too large a gap for foam...at low frequencies it will flex quite a bit. And the door panel will still be vibrating.

Ideally a solid, pressure proof material, with a layer of foam on top would be best. A firm contact...enough to compress the foam is the goal...even a small leak will allow pressure to escape. Sound "Pressure" Level, right?

I try to get the gap to less than 1/16', and then cover the ring with 1/4" of foam, or a bead of dum dum
When the door panel can't be flexed in at all around the speaker, you've got it right.

Is that pic of the foam a "before" pic? Or is that an impression of the door panel I see? It almost looks like another MDF ring will fit in there...perhaps behind the speaker, with a thin layer of foam on top.
And is there a difference between having the panel on or off?

Starterwiz

Since you are spending some time trying different things, I thought you might find this gadget helpful.

It connects between the outputs of your crossover and the tweets, and allows you to instantly change the phase.

Very handy tool and a great time saver.

a 4 pole double throw relay a 9V battery and a momentary switch are all that's required (the relay I have has a manual switch built in, so no need for the battery or switch).

syang3

It's actually a "after" pic. Right now there's already a baffle behind the speaker that has same diameter as the speaker. There's also couple layers of dyanamt/brown bread/cascade around the baffle so it looks like it's buried.

The foam I used yesterday was too thick not flexible enough and I think the seal wasn't air tight with the panel. I just bought some thinner foam today and will do it again this time I will try to do it right. The thing is, the panel has some odd shape around the speaker grill area and some bolts that stick out just right beside the grill so it's kinda hard to get it air tight. I tried the panel on/off and when it's off there's actually a big gap between the metal and the window glass, and various small holes so bass is weaker that way.

syang3

Today I spent about 1 hr listening to a pair of 6.5" home speaker and then compare the sound with the same cd in the accord. Image and midrange response was like night and day difference. I think I will go with kick panel instead of door pod now. Will find a shop to do it in lower mainland.

sleepr

If you put your Focal's in kick panels then you could put something like the ED 7Kv2 in the doors crossed 50-200hz, you would never complain about midbass again! Also, Focal mids are spec'd for large air volumes (I think it's around 30 Litres for the 6.5), so they will probably lose some low-end extension in a kick panel.

SweetnLow91SC

Just wondering what speakers and what store you did your audition at? and also what equipments (CD player, Preamp,amp, cables, etc) was used in the system.