new kicks or leave existing
12-31-2007, 04:04 PM
#12
Honestly, I used to have my midbass driver in the door and 4" mid and tweeters in the kicks. It sounded good, but I had a very uneven stage that really went down on each side.
I took the tweeters and put them in my A-Pillars instead. HUGE difference. Although I lost a weeee bit in depth, I gained a lot in height, and steadiness across the stage. As far as width, the 4" still gets some sounds to come from outside the car. I really love how it worked out.
I'd say, try out just moving your tweeters up and seeing how you like the sound without moving the mids. (but, plug the holes from the tweets in your kicks).
Because, honestly, I don't think you can get a big enough kick to fit both the 4" and 6.5". Especialy driving manual with the clutch.
I took the tweeters and put them in my A-Pillars instead. HUGE difference. Although I lost a weeee bit in depth, I gained a lot in height, and steadiness across the stage. As far as width, the 4" still gets some sounds to come from outside the car. I really love how it worked out.
I'd say, try out just moving your tweeters up and seeing how you like the sound without moving the mids. (but, plug the holes from the tweets in your kicks).
Because, honestly, I don't think you can get a big enough kick to fit both the 4" and 6.5". Especialy driving manual with the clutch.
12-31-2007, 07:29 PM
#13
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
Well tweeters in kicks can work tweeters in A-pillars can work and tweeters in the door can work... just do your homework. Now putting the mid up on the A pillars or in the dash... that could be fun but it is not easy and the best sounding solution may not look as good as the ones shown in this thread (they look VERY good compared to many I have seen). Whenever you have the windshield involved it is either your best friend or your worst enemy.
You really dont have a choice but to get the mid-bass out of the door unless you can stop the door from rattling (could I humbly recommend lots of Ideal Duct seal about 7 pounds or more per door). This is one of the reasons I had to take the 8" dynaudios out of my doors in my SHO... I mean lots of internal volume to give the bass you want but too high a price sometimes.
The fiberglass with "fiberglass > dynamat > fiberglass > mdf dust > fiberglass" is their version of constrained layer damping. I am sure there are success stories and as many failures trying to do that. The resin and glass make a rigid container that probably rings like a bell (kind of like the thin sheet-metal in cars) and colours the sound, to get an inert enclosure mass loading is a good technique, iron shot, sand and so on.
You really dont have a choice but to get the mid-bass out of the door unless you can stop the door from rattling (could I humbly recommend lots of Ideal Duct seal about 7 pounds or more per door). This is one of the reasons I had to take the 8" dynaudios out of my doors in my SHO... I mean lots of internal volume to give the bass you want but too high a price sometimes.
The fiberglass with "fiberglass > dynamat > fiberglass > mdf dust > fiberglass" is their version of constrained layer damping. I am sure there are success stories and as many failures trying to do that. The resin and glass make a rigid container that probably rings like a bell (kind of like the thin sheet-metal in cars) and colours the sound, to get an inert enclosure mass loading is a good technique, iron shot, sand and so on.
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