BradSk88

I'm having a bit of trouble tweaking my stereo.

I have 5.25" mids in fiberglass door pods (infinite baffle) and tweeters on the door sills (kickpods essentially.)

My soundstage is a little bit to the right, but I assume that is because the left midrange pod isn't sealed up entirely yet. So I'll have to delay judgement of imaging until I can get that finished.

In terms of moving the soundstage forward, what is the general rule for achieving that? Would I want to angle the kickpod tweeters forward? Would adding a second set of extra-high-pass tweeters to the a-piller pointing toward the windshield do it?

Throw up some suggestions, I'm at a loss.

gumby!

iTrader: (2)

adding a second set of tweeters in the pillars pointing straight accross at each other will do wonders, for stage height and imaging, But you will need some attuention, and eqing and time correction, what kind of processor do you have now? Also I think you would be better to get rid of the doorpods, unlees you are stuck on them, add a 3 inch mid in the kickpanel area and mov ethe tweets to the pillars.

BradSk88

I don't want to do any time correction, since I'm tuning for two seats (well, four actually, but that's another story)

I think I'm going to go the extra super-tweeters route, I'm going to try to find some way to use the speaker-level outputs from my head unit, since I'm not using them anyway. Probably a 30W potentiometer in series or something.

I'm pretty stuck with the door pods, I think switching to a 6.5" Type X as I plan to will make them a bit more omnidirectional, I hope so at least.

I'm also tuning for a flat response curve, so I think the difference between a 3" mid and a 10" woofer will be bad for me. I'll stick with the 5.25 (6.5 soon)

Thanks anyway, didn't think to try firing sideways. I need to wire in those tweeters and start aiming I guess. (I was also thinking maybe having them molded to the defrost vent, pointing at the windshield at opposite angles. But like I said, I'll have to test it out.)

sunfired

iTrader: (-1)

alpine head units with time correction rule!!!!!!!!

2deep2

Generally sound will originate between the 2 speakers.
One way to move the stage forward is to move the door speaker to the kicks.
Turn off any rear speakers.

In that you already have tweeters in the sail panel, I would not add a second set of tweeters in the A-pillar. However your A-pillar is more forward than your sail panel, so A-pillar tweeter with Kick Panel Midbass will result in a more forward stage.

Another way is to use your current speaker locations and a lot of tuning and processing. You will need get good coherence in the 2500 hz to 5000 Hz range so that increasing and reducing these frequencies will move key cues in and out of the stage. Then you need get your lower frequencies in time with the upper frequencies so that images are not frequency dependent. This may result with a hole in the center stage requiring a center channel speaker to full the hole... etc.

If you know how to tune you can get your current speaker locations to work as is (no need to add another set of tweeters or center). You may need the aid of some processing tricks.

Otherwise, move all the speakers forward and the sound moves forward with them.

With the sound already more forward, do some tuning and
wow your stage is in front of the car

goalie 35

if you are going to use a pillar tweeters i suggest that you put passive xovers on them.... cantact dukk and he can build you a killer set for under 100 bucks!! and they will kick butt.... i have been experimenting with a pillar tweets since 99 and feel very confident in the knowlege that i have gained...on angling xover points, attenuation and slopes,, anyway paul knows how to build anything you need with passives.

BradSk88

To the post above:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I'm only adding a tweeter, wouldn't I just need a capacitor? I don't see the need for an extra crossover, again, maybe wrong.



My tweeters are currently by my feet, so I'm definitely going to experiment with tweeters on and around the dash.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

goalie 35

well a capacitor IS a xover. i would suggest a 18db/oct xover set at above 12k put a zobel network in it with a thermal limit switch in there as well. total of 5 components per passive... again dukk is da man to talk to about the actual compont values....

Dukk

Glad you like them brother