pionkej

Look at my posts in this thread. I'm not trying to start a fight either, but my first suggestion was an honest one, go with a larger sub if you can fit it. I then "clapped" at AAAAA's statement that your reason for wanting an 8" didn't really make sense. You didn't appreciate HIS response and said you wanted an 8" sub because you didn't want to sound like an SPL based vehicle. I countered that by stating if you think you MUST have an 8" sub to avoid being an SPL based vehicle, you obviously don't know much. I ADDED to that comment another commonly misguided thought that sealed has better SQ than ported (even though it hadn't been brought up in this thread).

Now that you have stated how much room you have, EVERYONE else is suggesting going with a larger sub. It will make better use of the power you have on hand and will likely get loud enough to blend with whatever speakers you have up front. Believe it or not, larger vehicles have LESS cabin gain than smaller ones and the sub is usually farther away, so that sub will have to work even harder to keep up.

You have a reputation for being arguementative over on DIYMA (in fact, I think you got banned). Look at your thread, people gave you good suggestions for an 8". If you want, take their advice and let the thread die. Others (including myself) gave you advice to seek out a larger diameter sub, if you want to know more about why it would be a good idea and what subs to suggest, I would be happy to continue contributing to this thread, but don't argue with us because we may know a bit more than you do and we're trying to help you out before you make a purchase.

Also, if your sensitive to the fact I brought up your ML1600 comment, I simply did it because it is a true statement. If you were worried about one of the stoutest 6.5" midbass drivers not having enough output, then I HONESTLY DON'T THINK YOU'LL BE SATISFIED WITH AN 8" SUB IN YOUR VEHICLE.

Allan74

iTrader: (-1)

Would it help if I said I wanted to build something 'impressive for an 8' and horn load it ?

pionkej

Sure, but that would also probably change significantly which 8" sub is recommended and would waste the power you have available on tap.

If you want to avoid sounding like a "Honda with a wall of subs" then horn-loading an 8" that can handle 500-600 watts is the opposite direction of where you want to go. You will likely only need 100w or so to get all the output you need. Now, if you are fine with not using the amp you already own to it's full potential and want go out and buy an 8" sub you don't yet own to do "something impressive" with it, then by all means, go ahead.

But I must point out that your original question was quite misleading because the ONLY 8" subs that will handle 500-600w and not blow up are going to need to be in a sealed box.

As far as suggestions for a good sub to use for horn-loading, I have no advice because I have no experience with it. I would search the SPL sections of the forum (or go to a home-theater forum for advice). This doesn't mean can't have a SQ setup, but most of those guys will have a better idea on what drivers to use and how to setup your box. You just need to tune the box for "SQ" and not "SPL", i.e. with a flat response and not with a peaked response.

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

go to the Digital Designs website and click on PWK designs, take a look at his designs for small subs.

Haunz

iTrader: (3)

If you are one of those guys that wants to have an 8" sub just for the sake of having an 8" sub then that is one thing... But you can throw the idea of a horn loaded enclosure out the window because it won't work...

The size of an enclosure that could function effectively as a horn at sub-bass frequencies would be as large, if not larger, then your entire vehicle...

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

Here's a link to a CDT model that handles 400 watts rms:

WoofersEtc.com - QES-820DVC Orange - CDT Audio 8" Cast Audiophile Excursion Subwoofer

pionkej

I suppose I put my comment on subs in another thread. Look up Hoffman's Iron Law. It basically states that you can choose two of the following three properties in ANY speaker: small box, high efficiency, high power handling. Look at the specs, .30cu/ft box, but low efficiency (82db)...so it gets high power handling.

IMHO, these BEST way to purchase a sub is as follows: figure out how much power you have available, figure out how much space you have available, buy the largest sub you can find from a competent manufacturer, and build the best box in the best alignment (sealed, ported, IB) you can with the space you have left.

My first system that *I* built had (2) 12" RE SE subs on 600w ea. in 0.6cu/ft sealed boxes. The second I built was a single 12" OS Sony ES sub in a 3cu/ft box (built into the spare tire well) ported and tuned to around 24hz. On 150w it had greater output than the sealed subs, extended lower, took up less usuable room, and taxed my electrical system less. All it took was a bit of time-alignment to make up for the larger group delay of the subs and that single 12" on 100w blew my previous setup away.

Now I'm running (2) AE IB12's on 150w each. They extend even lower, took up even less space, take even less power, and have no group delay to speak of. They don't have as much output potential because of reduced power handling, but with two of them, I have no issues with output.

I will say it again, developing a good plan and implementing it properly will always be better than buying the "best" you can get and trying to figure the goals/install after the fact.

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

Also treo engineering had some very powerful 8" subs a few years ago...you might want to check into those as well...not sure if they still make them though.

Dukk

I can identify with that. When I had my Civic I had an RE-8 in a 1.5cuft ABC and that thing hammered on about 150watts. Surprised anyone that listened to it. Excellent woofer for how cheap they were.

Haunz

iTrader: (3)

^ Didn't you also have an install with multiple 8s installed in the spare tire well of a car Dukk ??