vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

This coming from a person running their tweets in sail panels. I thought this site was to help people, not mislead them. Infinity reference speakers are fine, the ability to make a $150 component system sound good is better than dishing out $1000 on components believing that will solve your issues. Crossing over tweeters @ 1.4khz is almost as dumb as putting tweeters in a sail. Why do people read something somewhere and pledge allegiance to it like it's gospel? Here's a hint, put a speaker next to your ear at moderate listening levels, don't destroy your hearing of course. How does that sound to ya? Now take that same speaker and put it 4' away, now how does that sound? Now imagine what happens when for example you put a speaker in a sail panel and cross it at 1.4khz, than crank up the volume? I'll give you another hint, ears bleeding, or as some call it, "listening fatigue". One of the biggest myths in audio is that a tweeter needs to play low to sound good, actually quite the opposite is true. Try playing the tweeter in the 5-6khz range and place speakers as far away from listening position as possible, I hope this helps, good luck.

Dukk

lol, so much hostility. I point out that your questions are suspiciously noobular for an "11 year vet" and you ride off the deep end. tsk tsk.

And inserting an insult into an apology sort of negates the apology don't you think?

Sorry if I'm riding you but you mention you work at a shop (inferred credibility) and then ask the most basic of questions: can I run comps off deck power. wtf is that? It's not like you wanted to debate details of kickpanel vs a-pillar tweeter mounting - you asked a question about deck power.

You know, maybe this is all my fault? I hold industry members to a higher standard. They don't need to know everything but they should have the basics covered IMO. Maybe the next time one of your reps is in you should ask for some Car Audio 101? Until then I'll try to not hold any standards to you. Where was it you worked again? One of those better-than-the-box-stores independent shops?

Mr.DatSubishi

My tweeters are add on tweeter and come with a crossover designed to run 1.4 to 26 kHz. Not really my choice as of right now. I will probably never run a full active setup as I am probably never gonna compete. I enjoy listening to my system and have no fatigue and no complaints besides lack of midbass (obviously. I'm currently running deck power on high pass). We do what we can with what we got. The tweeter is about 2 ft away from my ear on drivers side currently and was just added as a simple upgrade. It does its job well.

Mr.DatSubishi

DUKK, maybe you should take my suggestion and re-read posts that you think youre quotin. I NEVER ASKED ANYBODY IF I NEEDED AN AMP! I told you that before and you just repost the same BS. I said "I am not sure of their output off deck power" meaning if they are as efficient as my current speakers their volume level will be fine. again, "until amped" would suggest that I AM planning on using an amp.
And as for throwing an insult in with apology, do u want me to make 2 separate posts next time. Stating that moderators should be held to a higher standard as far as their conduct. I was under the impression you guys are supposed to be helpful, not vindictive and standoffish. thanks

Mr.DatSubishi

The apology was in a previous post and you replied to it rudely so I decided to do the same. What u were quoting happened after that.
And again I NEVER ASKED THAT QUESTION. Read what you're quoting and you'll realize that. And originally I was asking about speaker placement until this whole fiasco. You talk about my credibility and then just talk out your ***. WTF is that?

Mr.DatSubishi

This was actually the apology and your rudeness followed. And so did mine.

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

You do realize that whatever you can do active, you can accomplish with passive crossovers, right? That add on crossover can be easily changed over to play in the 5-6khz range for less than $5, now the only thing you need to do is figure out hot to do it, quite simple actually. I have run full active and full passive in the past 20 years, and have not competed in about 18 years, has nothing to do with running active. Active setups just give you the ability to fine tune your system on the fly, end of story. Midbass response from speakers have more to do with installation than with amplifier power, just like subwoofers and sizes of boxes. saying a tweeter 2' away from your head does it's job well is hard to believe, being a simple upgrade I can believe though. I think you need to do some reading and have a chance to listen to some quality car audio installs, not just some gino down the street with the loudest car on the block. I'm not trying to be a DIKK like DUKK, lol, I'm just trying to point you in the right direction as I see a lot of contradiction with what you are asking.

Mr.DatSubishi

Thanks^. I do appreciate advice vs. Criticism. I do realize there is constuctive criticism, but that's not been the basis of most of this thread. Do you have a reference site on passives? I will be doing a component set in near future off their own passives, but new info is always a learning experience. Which was what I was hoping to get from this site. My mid bass drivers are factory right now and had decent bass to begin with, but system really lacked highs so I did tweeters. I have my alpine xd over at 160 to speakers. Mostly to sacrifice bass for loud clean power. And it does keep up with my SQ box and 1000 watts just fine. Obviously I'd like more volume. But I step at a time. Thanks for not bein a DIKK.
Where am I contradicting myself? Just so we can clarify and answer some of my questions. Thanks again.

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

Putting speakers in kicks is not to create equal path lengths necessarily, that's what "TA" helps you accomplish. You are still closer to the kick on the driver's side. The kicks are the furthest point from you in most cars, this allows the music from the mid and tweeter which hopefully are close to one another to sum up and sound coherent, hope that makes some sense to you?

I use a 3-way front stage for instance which is "partially active" the mids and tweeter are running off a passive network crossed at 6khz for the tweeter and a bandpass for the mid from about 240Hz-6khz. The mid bass is in the doors and is heavily dampened and running active from the amplifiers crossover, it is also band passed from about 80Hz-240Hz. The subs are running everything from 60Hz down, and everything is running from one six channel amplifier. This is only an example of how you can set things up, but to do this in a 2-way setup would require you to run sealed kicks for better mid bass response.

To use an upstage tweeter or not? To be honest, in some cars you may need to but I have found that the higher you cross the tweeter the higher your stage appears to be. will it be perfect? probably not perfect, but pretty damn close, the key is to find a mid that can play mid bass and clean mids at higher volumes if you're going to go 2-way setup.

So, to sum it up......Keep speakers as far away from you as possible, keep the tweeters and mids as close together as possible, the higher you cut off the tweeter the higher your stage will appear to be, dampen doors and panels heavily. There are obviously many other factors, but start with that and come see us when you're done and we'll go from there.

Mr.DatSubishi

I do plan on doin a partially active front as well. Components high passed with passives(eventually run off an amp.) And 6x9 subs I found at CDT. The front subs will be band passed. Everything will be heavily dampened. How many layers of f glass would u suggest on the door pods. They will be attached to the inner door skin for rigidity. Ive also heard of funky stuff like guys mixing sand in with their resin or adding non drying sculpting clay to the inside of their pods for density. Any merit to that? I guess it's similar to deadening them. All holes in inner door skin will be covered and inner and outer skins will be dampened.

Speaker placement makes sense and I will keep tweeter close but TA is prob the last thing on my list. I know it's not all about quantity bit want to have all the hard parts in before that kind of tuning. I'll obviously wait on the upstage until after all other sounds in.

Thanks again for input. Hopefully I'll be started on at least the component install in the next couple weeks. I'll keep u guys posted if I can keep from getting banned.