Turn-on noise.
#11
lol, it sounds bad, but thats great to hear.
i know im not crazy with everything going on!
i have now tried multiple grounds on the headunit, run new REM, tried powering headunit off of the rear battery. nothing :P
how do you have your setup configured?
common ground for the amps? factory harness for headunit? etc.
i know im not crazy with everything going on!
i have now tried multiple grounds on the headunit, run new REM, tried powering headunit off of the rear battery. nothing :P
how do you have your setup configured?
common ground for the amps? factory harness for headunit? etc.
#12
I have the ground on a painted surface (installed quickly) so I'm going to try sanding down that point and then reinstalling the ground connection. If that doesn't fix it, I'll just adjust my LPF on the amp to hopefully filter it out!
Common ground for amps, with 1/0 gauge wire for both power and ground; aftermarket wiring harness for my headunit, and a 3.0 farad capacitor close to my amp. My subs pop sometimes and that's when too much current is drawn and my cap dies - loss of power to amp... I'm so confused!
Common ground for amps, with 1/0 gauge wire for both power and ground; aftermarket wiring harness for my headunit, and a 3.0 farad capacitor close to my amp. My subs pop sometimes and that's when too much current is drawn and my cap dies - loss of power to amp... I'm so confused!
#18
I had a temporary run of 4gauge for my ground. It was just thrown there and grounded to an unsanded parts of my rear strut bracing. I would get a "thud" whenever I turned my system on/off.
I upgraded my ground to the same size as my power wire (1/0 gauge) and bolted it to a sanded part of the frame. Now my thud is gone.
This Ive heard is the usual culprit: Quoted from caraudiohelp.com
"Accessory Pop
Accessory pop is associated with one particular electrical event in the vehicle. This can be switching on your turn signal, headlights, brakes, windshield wipers or even the rear window defrost. These high current drawing accessories are causing a voltage spike that is traveling into your car audio equipment with the result being heard as a sharp pop. Adding a small bi-polar capacitor (0.47 uF) between the accessory's power wire and ground will often absorb these surges. You may need to place the capacitor on the load or the power side of the switch (maybe both). "
I upgraded my ground to the same size as my power wire (1/0 gauge) and bolted it to a sanded part of the frame. Now my thud is gone.
This Ive heard is the usual culprit: Quoted from caraudiohelp.com
"Accessory Pop
Accessory pop is associated with one particular electrical event in the vehicle. This can be switching on your turn signal, headlights, brakes, windshield wipers or even the rear window defrost. These high current drawing accessories are causing a voltage spike that is traveling into your car audio equipment with the result being heard as a sharp pop. Adding a small bi-polar capacitor (0.47 uF) between the accessory's power wire and ground will often absorb these surges. You may need to place the capacitor on the load or the power side of the switch (maybe both). "
#19
I'm hearing some alt. whine, but I think this can be eliminated by a better ground connection... I also have accessory pop, but I'm not about to mess with accessory power wire. I'll try the ground first, then look at alternatives.
#20
some rca have a ground wire built in to them. try grounding the outside of the rca.
the same ohm as the battery ground for your equipment ground sounds like a winning solution. also try to ground your amp back to the battery. copper conducts better than a unibody chassis.
the same ohm as the battery ground for your equipment ground sounds like a winning solution. also try to ground your amp back to the battery. copper conducts better than a unibody chassis.