Is it worth going active?
Originally posted by Newb:
In what way is it currently bi-amped? Reading for the third time I guess the bridged comment regards your sub amp? Bi-amping components usually refers to using seperate channels for mid and tweet... but I guess if you have bi-amp crossovers you could run the amp in 2 ohm to get more power?
Going active would entail running one in stereo for tweets and one in stereo for mids. DSP would do the crossover duties. Monoing one to each channel and keeping the quart crossovers would be cool too, probably excessive power tho...
Yes the amp is bridged, with one wire to each tweet and mid.
Also... I'm confused by your comment about the crossovers being redundant... The quart crossovers send highs to tweets and lows to mids, you should still have a high pass functioning either in the amps or with your dsp. If you're using both at the same/similar frequency you'll get some funky slopes going on, not redundancy.
In what way is it currently bi-amped? Reading for the third time I guess the bridged comment regards your sub amp? Bi-amping components usually refers to using seperate channels for mid and tweet... but I guess if you have bi-amp crossovers you could run the amp in 2 ohm to get more power?
Going active would entail running one in stereo for tweets and one in stereo for mids. DSP would do the crossover duties. Monoing one to each channel and keeping the quart crossovers would be cool too, probably excessive power tho...
Yes the amp is bridged, with one wire to each tweet and mid.
Also... I'm confused by your comment about the crossovers being redundant... The quart crossovers send highs to tweets and lows to mids, you should still have a high pass functioning either in the amps or with your dsp. If you're using both at the same/similar frequency you'll get some funky slopes going on, not redundancy.
Originally posted by defro13:
i did some research on that piece and its very cool. with flexibility like that why you wouldnt at least try going active. to just say bridge your amps and keep the passives makes absolutley no sense. give yourself the benefit of the doubt and at least try going active, and decide at that point if active is for you. my instinct says you wont go back to passive. if you arent familiar with fully electronic, make sure that you have help with the inital set with someone who is, wouldnt want to see you break anything
i did some research on that piece and its very cool. with flexibility like that why you wouldnt at least try going active. to just say bridge your amps and keep the passives makes absolutley no sense. give yourself the benefit of the doubt and at least try going active, and decide at that point if active is for you. my instinct says you wont go back to passive. if you arent familiar with fully electronic, make sure that you have help with the inital set with someone who is, wouldnt want to see you break anything
Another reson why I am passive as of now is that the MB Quart crossovers have a tweet protection(light that glows to absorbs extra current). I have the amp all the way down and sometimes that light is so bright I could light up a park at night.
^ The light just burns off extra power so the tweet isn't overpowered. Once enough voltage is seen on the speaker wire, the bulb starts to light. Pretty much limiting the tweeter to a certain point on the wattage it receives. But yeah I agree that it's getting too much power and you should look at where your gains are at.
I've had my own light bulb tweeter protection in two of my vehicles. Really simple and cheap to do and works great at preventing tweeters from popping at higher volumes.
I've had my own light bulb tweeter protection in two of my vehicles. Really simple and cheap to do and works great at preventing tweeters from popping at higher volumes.
Originally posted by Grey Z34:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Newb:
In what way is it currently bi-amped? Reading for the third time I guess the bridged comment regards your sub amp? Bi-amping components usually refers to using seperate channels for mid and tweet... but I guess if you have bi-amp crossovers you could run the amp in 2 ohm to get more power?
Going active would entail running one in stereo for tweets and one in stereo for mids. DSP would do the crossover duties. Monoing one to each channel and keeping the quart crossovers would be cool too, probably excessive power tho...
Yes the amp is bridged, with one wire to each tweet and mid.
Also... I'm confused by your comment about the crossovers being redundant... The quart crossovers send highs to tweets and lows to mids, you should still have a high pass functioning either in the amps or with your dsp. If you're using both at the same/similar frequency you'll get some funky slopes going on, not redundancy.
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Newb:
In what way is it currently bi-amped? Reading for the third time I guess the bridged comment regards your sub amp? Bi-amping components usually refers to using seperate channels for mid and tweet... but I guess if you have bi-amp crossovers you could run the amp in 2 ohm to get more power?
Going active would entail running one in stereo for tweets and one in stereo for mids. DSP would do the crossover duties. Monoing one to each channel and keeping the quart crossovers would be cool too, probably excessive power tho...
Yes the amp is bridged, with one wire to each tweet and mid.
Also... I'm confused by your comment about the crossovers being redundant... The quart crossovers send highs to tweets and lows to mids, you should still have a high pass functioning either in the amps or with your dsp. If you're using both at the same/similar frequency you'll get some funky slopes going on, not redundancy.
Another way to go is that you can always just turn the XDP-4000 crossovers off.
Also, I think you're misusing the term "bridged". Loading the amps down to 2 ohm is not bridging them. Bridging is summing the output of two channels into one. Therefore... if the amp was bridged to your front stage currently you'd only have 1 channel of amplification, and you'd be running your front stage in 2 ohm mono, which makes no sense.
Here is what I would do in terms of signal chain.
C90 to XDP-4000
XDP-4000 high pass (3500 Hz approx) to ZPA 0.5 #1 running tweets in 4 ohm stereo
XDP-4000 band pass (60 to 3500 Hz approx)to ZPA 0.5 #2 running mids in 4 ohm stereo
XDP-4000 low pass (60 Hz) to new sub amp.
By going fully active you could have full control over all slopes and points from the drivers seat.
My only concern is that on the PG website they seem to stress that you need 8v of input with the ZPA series, which the XDP-4000 will just not provide. Maybe someone more familiar with the amps can comment.
Originally posted by defro13:
if the light is lit up like you say, youve got some major clipping going on and should seriously reevaluate your gain structure and your dc current supply immediatly
if the light is lit up like you say, youve got some major clipping going on and should seriously reevaluate your gain structure and your dc current supply immediatly
Originally posted by Newb:
[/qb]Redundancy is when two or more devices provide identical services. Crossovers can't be redundant because of signal path, and the fact that they simply filter whatever comes in regardless of what it is.
[/qb]Redundancy is when two or more devices provide identical services. Crossovers can't be redundant because of signal path, and the fact that they simply filter whatever comes in regardless of what it is.
Another way to go is that you can always just turn the XDP-4000 crossovers off.
Also, I think you're misusing the term "bridged". Loading the amps down to 2 ohm is not bridging them. Bridging is summing the output of two channels into one. Therefore... if the amp was bridged to your front stage currently you'd only have 1 channel of amplification, and you'd be running your front stage in 2 ohm mono, which makes no sense.
Here is what I would do in terms of signal chain.
C90 to XDP-4000
XDP-4000 high pass (3500 Hz approx) to ZPA 0.5 #1 running tweets in 4 ohm stereo
XDP-4000 band pass (60 to 3500 Hz approx)to ZPA 0.5 #2 running mids in 4 ohm stereo
XDP-4000 low pass (60 Hz) to new sub amp.
By going fully active you could have full control over all slopes and points from the drivers seat.
C90 to XDP-4000
XDP-4000 high pass (3500 Hz approx) to ZPA 0.5 #1 running tweets in 4 ohm stereo
XDP-4000 band pass (60 to 3500 Hz approx)to ZPA 0.5 #2 running mids in 4 ohm stereo
XDP-4000 low pass (60 Hz) to new sub amp.
By going fully active you could have full control over all slopes and points from the drivers seat.
My only concern is that on the PG website they seem to stress that you need 8v of input with the ZPA series, which the XDP-4000 will just not provide. Maybe someone more familiar with the amps can comment. [/QB]
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