Beginner - Help Needed, Have A Sub Need An Amp
#11
I was on the Kicker site and they suggested their 500/600W Amp ...
Just wondering that if I do pick up a better amp (such as this, or better I imagine), I get it installed (because I'm not doing it!), I should be alright and good to go???
Just wondering that if I do pick up a better amp (such as this, or better I imagine), I get it installed (because I'm not doing it!), I should be alright and good to go???
#13
Now we're getting somewhere ...
With that "I Need Help" thread up already, I'll ask this dumb question.
You get a weak amp, you don't power your speakers to their full potential, correct?
But what if you get an amp that's too powerful for your speakers or above what is called for, can you potentially blow your speakers?
What do you do, turn the amp down somehow?
Oh yes, I'm lost. Thanks.
With that "I Need Help" thread up already, I'll ask this dumb question.
You get a weak amp, you don't power your speakers to their full potential, correct?
But what if you get an amp that's too powerful for your speakers or above what is called for, can you potentially blow your speakers?
What do you do, turn the amp down somehow?
Oh yes, I'm lost. Thanks.
#14
Here is my opinion on amp power ratings to speaker power ratings. I'd be very interested to hear what others think?
I think your amp rms power rating should be higher than your speaker rms rating but well below speaker max. The trick is to never, never ever, drive your amp into distortion.
More speakers are blown from distortion than from power. Most newbies who blow new speakers is from not enough power, they drive it into clipping to get loud and then wonder why the coil melted.
You need enough power to fully drive your speaker to its potential without ever hitting clipping.
I think your amp rms power rating should be higher than your speaker rms rating but well below speaker max. The trick is to never, never ever, drive your amp into distortion.
More speakers are blown from distortion than from power. Most newbies who blow new speakers is from not enough power, they drive it into clipping to get loud and then wonder why the coil melted.
You need enough power to fully drive your speaker to its potential without ever hitting clipping.
#15
So what you're almost saying is I should buy an amp to cater to my speakers? Because I was thinking hey, if I can get a deal on a BETTER amp than what I need, then I'd be set for max power (I don't want to buy one, then have to buy another when I want it to be louder/more powerful) so I might end up going big once) ...
You couldn't just set it to a "Lower Setting" of sorts or you might actually kill your speakers? Like I said, for the box Kicker suggests their 600W Amp.
I was thinking maybe better if I can get one ...
P.S. What's this "Clipping" ... trust me, I'll WANT to turn it up but I'm not going to ... not with these, oh no no no ...
I'm not blowing these, I don't have that kinda change :P
Hence, this whole entire thread ... I don't need that "Oh that's obvious" ...
NOT TO ME IT WASN'T!!!
You couldn't just set it to a "Lower Setting" of sorts or you might actually kill your speakers? Like I said, for the box Kicker suggests their 600W Amp.
I was thinking maybe better if I can get one ...
P.S. What's this "Clipping" ... trust me, I'll WANT to turn it up but I'm not going to ... not with these, oh no no no ...
I'm not blowing these, I don't have that kinda change :P
Hence, this whole entire thread ... I don't need that "Oh that's obvious" ...
NOT TO ME IT WASN'T!!!
#16
you have 1200 watts of powerable woofer
who said you could not get a 1200 watt amp? buy the monster amp keep the ohm load down( run it at 4 ohms), better sound quality, and a small break in period. but yet when you go to that spl comp you have it all there to go.
big misconception is that a woofer does not need broke in (BUllsh*t) if you run the woofers low for a week you temper the voice coil, making the woofer handle its power better.
Like i said before most woofers today are made to run half max the max is a competition only rating. you can run them hard if you want but they wont last as long.
big misconception is that a woofer does not need broke in (BUllsh*t) if you run the woofers low for a week you temper the voice coil, making the woofer handle its power better.
Like i said before most woofers today are made to run half max the max is a competition only rating. you can run them hard if you want but they wont last as long.
#17
So I've got the subs and I pick myself a 600W Amp or better somewhere, get it all installed for me (likely), should I be alright and good to go from there?
I'm just wondering what the next step is and someone tells me "Okay, now you need these speakers or tweeters or a new head stereo unit or SOMETHING ...
Guess I'll find out in soon time :P
I'm just wondering what the next step is and someone tells me "Okay, now you need these speakers or tweeters or a new head stereo unit or SOMETHING ...
Guess I'll find out in soon time :P
#18
I'm going to suggest an amp with a sub-sonic filter.
That box is tuned fairly high, and the subs will handle very lttle power below 30hz.
The GM-510 does give a decent output at $.5o/watt, but you'll need to buy some F-Mods for around $50 to protect the subs, and clean up the sound.
That box is tuned fairly high, and the subs will handle very lttle power below 30hz.
The GM-510 does give a decent output at $.5o/watt, but you'll need to buy some F-Mods for around $50 to protect the subs, and clean up the sound.
#20
I would have to agree with Justin on that. The lower you can have your gain on your amp the better. I try to never have my amp past 3/4 volume, i find it gives more head room and less distortion witch means less heat. Alot of people don't want to spend the extra money but if possible hitting your power rating at 4ohms would be the best IMO.
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