Crappytire has all kinds of clips for that size wire.
They gots lotsa fuse holders too [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

[ February 18, 2005, 11:13 PM: Message edited by: kickerolds ]

 

Hey Mikeone
if they are kick *** subs in a ported sub how do I build one of those?
are they that much bigger? I like having a trunk so I don't want anything huge

 

You build it the same way but "bigger" and add air ports.

0.75 sealed

1.75 ported.

Do you have the paperwork on the sub? If so post all the specs and someone can help you more.

 

On the paperwork it says to have one with a port 11.96" deep and 3 inch in diameter with a Fo=25.0 Hz (not sure what this means)

Does it matter where in the box it gets ported?

Sorry for all the dumb questions but I'd really like to understand how this works ... I've already bought the wood but I would need to get more if I'm doing a ported box. Will it really make a big difference?
Thanks again

 

My honest opinion....Just seal it,Youve already got an amp that overpowers it so its gonna rock.
I alway seal my boxes,cause there easy and they have always sounded better to me.
Its up to you in the end,you make the call.

 

I'm still learning this stuff... it seems quite a few designs have the ports between the drivers if there are two subs in your design. One of the biggest issues in designing is to make sure you have enough room for your port to fit into your box and that the space between the end of the port and the box is a mininum of the diameter of the port... ie 3" port... 3 inches between the end of port and the wall. Also flared ports tend to respond better than straight ended ports. Ported enclosures offer more SPL than closed subs. The most SPL is from a sub horn, next would be a bandpass design. Sonically the closed sub sounds the best and bandpass the worst.... so you have to decide what's best for you.