Current draw
#1
With new cars and technology out there, how many of you are fameliar with current draw limitations with new vehicles, to avoid drained batteries?
For example, I recently had a client that had an alarm installed(elsewhere) into a Z3, the vehicle was rarely used, ergo the reason for the alarm. Apparantly over time, a cel in the battery went dead, and BMW replaced the battery, which kept going dead, and noted that the current draw was excessively high (0.05A) and was above the factory limit of 0.003A .
The alarm was an older Clifford.
For example, I recently had a client that had an alarm installed(elsewhere) into a Z3, the vehicle was rarely used, ergo the reason for the alarm. Apparantly over time, a cel in the battery went dead, and BMW replaced the battery, which kept going dead, and noted that the current draw was excessively high (0.05A) and was above the factory limit of 0.003A .
The alarm was an older Clifford.
#4
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Posts: n/a
Change relays from normally energized to normally de-energized.
IE: If it can be done, make the starter-kill not do anything until the car is on. We changed my buddy's Avital from the constantly running relay-method (default) to having them normally deenergized and it went from 30mA (I think it was) to low enough the meter couldn't read it.
IE: If it can be done, make the starter-kill not do anything until the car is on. We changed my buddy's Avital from the constantly running relay-method (default) to having them normally deenergized and it went from 30mA (I think it was) to low enough the meter couldn't read it.
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Father Yuli
Canadian General Car Audio Discussion
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08-04-2009 12:13 AM