Dude at future shop freaks out at me...
#41
i dont think an amp can output dc.. no matter how hard it clips.. just not possible but the welding of the voice coil comes from to much power as an amp will give more output, almost 2db more energy at the fundemantal and one db at the harmonics, when clipped.. thats why we run our amps to full clip on burps.. this what i did to acheive such high spl scores with only a 1000watt amp..
#43
dont like # one because of the odd order harmonics created by third order boxes but they due tend to make those bottom octaves hit hard... and for the amount of trial and error to actually get the box tuned to the car.. sealed everytime..
A 3rd order box would be a sealed one with a single element passive crossover.
How does the enclosure make the speaker change what order of harmonics it produces? The cone is always the primary radiator. You can explain on Saturday
#44
i dont think an amp can output dc.. no matter how hard it clips.. just not possible but the welding of the voice coil comes from to much power as an amp will give more output, almost 2db more energy at the fundemantal and one db at the harmonics, when clipped.. thats why we run our amps to full clip on burps.. this what i did to acheive such high spl scores with only a 1000watt amp..
#45
...Contrast that with a more experienced car audio guy, and you'll find he probably over powers his speaks by 1.5-2x their rms power and has a balanced sub system with the amp's gains set low. When the system is cranked you get clean power, low noise and and lots of dynamic range as the peaks and valleys in the music signal can be reproduced due to the headroom available in the amplifier. The speaker's cone can move a lot and stay cool, and the system sounds louder and much cleaner.
I have currently amp gain set up to 3/4 and bass at minimum (-14) on the HU, is it better to set the gain lets say at 1/2 and bring the base up a lil on the HU? (im running 500/1 with two SW8200- and yes because of the big box they reach Xmax pretty damn easy)
some insight about the distortion: I turn down the volume once the hissing and sharp squelching sound, the speakers (often tweets) produce.... I cant drive with some ppl because of that reason- gives me a headache and my eardrums actually hurt...) I hope to move on to some nice front stage soon as im running some HOFONICS 6.5s 120 rms comps on a 300/2 jl v2.... they need to have the tweets turn down so low, as they are very sharp/aggressive... :/
#46
heat is the enemy. a speaker is like a light bulb... when current is run across the element or voicecoil it heats up.. to much current and the element snaps. to much current and the voice coil melts... again.. heat is one of the main reasons of speaker failure, another is just sure overpower and things let go. like dustcaps, surrounds, spiders ect..
#47
heat is the enemy. a speaker is like a light bulb... when current is run across the element or voicecoil it heats up.. to much current and the element snaps. to much current and the voice coil melts... again.. heat is one of the main reasons of speaker failure, another is just sure overpower and things let go. like dustcaps, surrounds, spiders ect..
#48
An amp can't output DC? A clipped signal is a flat wave... The voltage rails can't produce any more power than it is capable of, and if the gain is set too high, or the signal's input voltage exceeds the voltage rails capabilities, the amp will still output, however the top and bottom of the wave is flat... aka a short DC signal... So no, it doesn't consistently output DC, but the voicecoil can certainly see a DC signal, so it will slow the voicecoil enough (can't stop it due to momentum) to heat it rapidly and cause damage. I completely agree with Dukk and AAAAAA. Heat kills voicecoils. Clipped signals can certainly add to the heat. Prolonged clipped signals can damage voicecoils IF the power present at that time is significant enough to go beyond the thermal limits of the driver. Clipping itself isn't the issue, it's simply a factor adding to the real problem: heat.
#49
just one question related to this entry by veeman.
I have currently amp gain set up to 3/4 and bass at minimum (-14) on the HU, is it better to set the gain lets say at 1/2 and bring the base up a lil on the HU? (im running 500/1 with two SW8200- and yes because of the big box they reach Xmax pretty damn easy)
some insight about the distortion: I turn down the volume once the hissing and sharp squelching sound, the speakers (often tweets) produce.... I cant drive with some ppl because of that reason- gives me a headache and my eardrums actually hurt...) I hope to move on to some nice front stage soon as im running some HOFONICS 6.5s 120 rms comps on a 300/2 jl v2.... they need to have the tweets turn down so low, as they are very sharp/aggressive... :/
I have currently amp gain set up to 3/4 and bass at minimum (-14) on the HU, is it better to set the gain lets say at 1/2 and bring the base up a lil on the HU? (im running 500/1 with two SW8200- and yes because of the big box they reach Xmax pretty damn easy)
some insight about the distortion: I turn down the volume once the hissing and sharp squelching sound, the speakers (often tweets) produce.... I cant drive with some ppl because of that reason- gives me a headache and my eardrums actually hurt...) I hope to move on to some nice front stage soon as im running some HOFONICS 6.5s 120 rms comps on a 300/2 jl v2.... they need to have the tweets turn down so low, as they are very sharp/aggressive... :/
#50
ok lets see here a square wave is NOT the same as DC. a pure square wave is a complex ac signal that is made up of funamental frequency and an infinite number of harmonics. perfect square waves are only a theoretical wave as there are no circuit with that kind of bandwidth necessary to pass one.. but some cheap off shore crap come mighty close.. also of note if you take a square wave and compare it to the same amplitude of a sine wave, the square wave will have double the output.. this is where the speakers now run into thermal problems..