electrical question
02-03-2009, 04:03 PM
#22
Can I give you a small tip?
0/1 is as thick, or thicker, than your thumb. Pull off a couple of panels and see if you can hide both runs together. I didnt bother doing that and I wish I had of.
When the weather warms up I'm running them down opposite sides of the car because together they are too thick to hide nicely.
0/1 is as thick, or thicker, than your thumb. Pull off a couple of panels and see if you can hide both runs together. I didnt bother doing that and I wish I had of.
When the weather warms up I'm running them down opposite sides of the car because together they are too thick to hide nicely.
Even if you can't do the big 3, a real easy way to improve the electrical health of your system is to at least upgrade the wire from the battery ground to the chassis. At least your electrical components won't be fighting as much to return the voltage to the battery. Yes upgrading the + and - from battery to alt is very beneficial, but a must is to upgrade the chassis to battery -.
Oh and in response the original post - the suggestion is junk. If you're only running 12awg, and you're system is drawing anything more than 30A, there will not be enough current allowed through that wire to charge the second battery quickly. If you try and shove more than 30A through 12awg you'll really be heating things up and at risk of a fire.
And since most amplifiers these days are fused at 40A and up, you can be guaranteed that the second battery will be looking for more than 30A to replenish it's amperage stock. A dangerous suggestion and the poster hasn't thought through the implications of why we use the wire gauges that we do.
Oh and in response the original post - the suggestion is junk. If you're only running 12awg, and you're system is drawing anything more than 30A, there will not be enough current allowed through that wire to charge the second battery quickly. If you try and shove more than 30A through 12awg you'll really be heating things up and at risk of a fire.
And since most amplifiers these days are fused at 40A and up, you can be guaranteed that the second battery will be looking for more than 30A to replenish it's amperage stock. A dangerous suggestion and the poster hasn't thought through the implications of why we use the wire gauges that we do.
02-03-2009, 09:59 PM
#23
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
If your dad is an electrician, what is his response to that guy you quoted in the opening post? I pointed what I believe are some dangers, I'd like to know what a certified electrician has to say . . . regardless of AC or DC, much of the theory and practice is the same.
02-03-2009, 10:09 PM
#24
If your dad is an electrician, what is his response to that guy you quoted in the opening post? I pointed what I believe are some dangers, I'd like to know what a certified electrician has to say . . . regardless of AC or DC, much of the theory and practice is the same.
I would also like to know what he thinks.
02-03-2009, 10:44 PM
#25
If your dad is an electrician, what is his response to that guy you quoted in the opening post? I pointed what I believe are some dangers, I'd like to know what a certified electrician has to say . . . regardless of AC or DC, much of the theory and practice is the same.
Last edited by fresh1; 02-03-2009 at 10:50 PM.
02-03-2009, 10:57 PM
#26
Yes, quite an electic group here. Very valuable pool of knowledge, SPL, SQL guys, install people, enclosure builders, tuners, etc. As for helping people, well, I dont think anyone wants to watch someone make the same mistakes they did (at least in my case). Personally I dont believe in the "Oh let him cook a thousand bucks in amps and subs, only way hes gonna learn!)" school of thought, but thats only me.
Good luck with it!
John
Good luck with it!
John
02-03-2009, 11:14 PM
#28
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
Calculating watts is easy: V*A = W . . . but calculating the watts isn't the issue. You can get over 3000 watts safely through a 14awg wire and a 15amp fuse won't blow (240V*15A=3600watts). More of the issue is the current (amps) and wire gauge. Because car stereos run on low voltage the require massive amounts of current to produce a fair bit of wattage . . . that's why I say the guy who said you can do this with a 12awg wire doesn't have a clue about what he's talking about . . . do you want me to start ranting about ohm's law so you can feel like you're being lectured by your dad? 
02-04-2009, 12:55 AM
#30
Calculating watts is easy: V*A = W . . . but calculating the watts isn't the issue. You can get over 3000 watts safely through a 14awg wire and a 15amp fuse won't blow (240V*15A=3600watts). More of the issue is the current (amps) and wire gauge. Because car stereos run on low voltage the require massive amounts of current to produce a fair bit of wattage . . . that's why I say the guy who said you can do this with a 12awg wire doesn't have a clue about what he's talking about . . . do you want me to start ranting about ohm's law so you can feel like you're being lectured by your dad?
yeah thats what he pulls when we talk about stuff like that, and it sucks because the only license i have is my g, and he's had his longer haha, but this is usually over a few beers so we quickly go from his masters license to bob marley or how i think i'm better than him at pool to how he put his own capacitor together back in the days with his cerwins driving around to "real music" and then probably back to how my cerwin vegas would get blown out of the water by his lol. i have his set up with my dj equipment and i will say they do sound pretty awesome, especially for being so old. its a shame i was born and he had to take them out of his car and buy a bigger vehicle loll
