electrical question
#31
...but i would guess you're right in that the size of wire is related to current flow, which is probably why my lights dim with an 8 ga. kit even though when using VI=W its clear that my amp is right on the money (12.5 volts x 40 amp fuse = 500 watts which is the rms), but it doesn't say what wire to use.
Just I doubt the amp is 500watts - the amp would have to be 100% efficient for that - more likely somewhere between 50% and 75%
#32
well mr maltesechicken, you seem to be one smart dude. it was a stinger kit, they're american right? hahaha. yeah i've seen some people show me a 5 gauge kit from walmart that looks like 4 ga. but thats because of the jacket, the wire itself is like an 8 ga.
#35
#36
Well, more or less the Kinetics are supposed to act like very large capacitors. They store immense amounts of energy in them and are made for a fast charge and use of energy. I've lifted one of these things and they are heavy as all hell.
What electrical theory tell us however, is that if you have two batteries in one system and one battery drops below common voltage (12v in this case.) the other battery will try to send voltage until the two are of an even voltage. I have heard that this can cause excessive play between the batteries, shortening their life a bit and of course the movement of current is going to generate heat. The best thing I've heard of is to get a battery isolator. Basically a set of diodes that will let the alt charge each battery individually without fear of the inter-play between the two.
Most people tend to run a large gauge back, because over distance you will be losing voltage because of the wire resistance, hence losing overall wattage.
What electrical theory tell us however, is that if you have two batteries in one system and one battery drops below common voltage (12v in this case.) the other battery will try to send voltage until the two are of an even voltage. I have heard that this can cause excessive play between the batteries, shortening their life a bit and of course the movement of current is going to generate heat. The best thing I've heard of is to get a battery isolator. Basically a set of diodes that will let the alt charge each battery individually without fear of the inter-play between the two.
Most people tend to run a large gauge back, because over distance you will be losing voltage because of the wire resistance, hence losing overall wattage.
Last edited by KenC; 02-04-2009 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Part of this yoinked because it was answering another post
#39
awesome. in my mind i thought it would be beneficial because it would make sure that if i run my system with the engine off i would still get to start. but realistically i don't think that would happen without being near someone with jumper cables or a booster pack, or even if i take mine knowing i could drain my battery(ies) so the isolator wouldn't be "necessary" so to speak, but instead be more of a safety
#40
awesome. in my mind i thought it would be beneficial because it would make sure that if i run my system with the engine off i would still get to start. but realistically i don't think that would happen without being near someone with jumper cables or a booster pack, or even if i take mine knowing i could drain my battery(ies) so the isolator wouldn't be "necessary" so to speak, but instead be more of a safety
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hardcore Rock Superstar
Off-topic Chat
5
02-05-2005 03:57 PM