90 Celi GT-S

uhm, whos LBKC?

How much would a custom alt cost me if i need to take that route?

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

A HO alterntor is usually a chunk of $. For the grounds, head into your local shop, I'm not sure how the shops there are but I did use to work for two of them way back in the late 80's. What you need is basically extra scraps of 4 gauge power and ground wire + the proper ring terminals (solder them on) to upgrade all the power and ground wires in the engine compartement.
LBKC = LoudBrownKickerColt

[ May 03, 2004, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: MR2NR ]

Loud Brown Kicker Colt

iTrader: (1)

Me

90 Celi GT-S

Bah, ok cool, sooo, how much would I be lookin at Loud?

90 Celi GT-S

thanks loud, definitely a future investment [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

Humvee2

iTrader: (1)

Okay... This is what I'll be running.. Let me know if I'm right or wrong..

1. From the Battery 4 Gauge wire with a fuse going into a MBR-70 Battery regulator.
2. From the regulator, 0 Gauge wire to a Yellow top Optima.
3. From the yellow top Optima, 0 gauge wire into a Alumapro 15 farad CAP
4. From the CAP 1 foot of 4 Gauge into my Orions.

Question 1. Do I need 0 Gauge wire from the front battery right back to the CAP? Or is it fine from the regulator?

2. Do I need to run ground wire from the front too or is it enough to ground the Yellow top to the chassis and run 0 Gauge ground from there to the CAP.

3. Why is it necessary to run 0 Gauge wire if it goes through a fuse? Wouldn't the fuse reduce the overall power anyway to maybe the amount that a 2 or 4 gauge wire would handle? Yea the wire is thick and nice but the little piece of metal that is in a 100-150A fuse is kinda thin compaired!

Just a few questions I had..

Isn't this site amazing for info? It even has calculators for individual systems..

All You Need To Know!

[ June 02, 2004, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: Humvee2 ]

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Wow man, a real multi battery regulator, sweet, I have not seen one of those for many moons. Use as large a guage wire from the alternator to the regulator and the regulator to each battery. Make sure the grounds are nice and large and connected to nice clean surfaces as well.

(1) 0 gauge required front to back.
(2) if the resistance on the ground return can not be made to get below .05 ohm then a ground line of the same size is required front to back. Upgrade all front grounds.
(3) a fuse has a value in amps. It can actually pass much more current than it is rated for, be it for a finite period of time. With your cap and rear mounted battery, you will require two fuse holders on the 0 gauge power line. 1 up front after the regulator and the second on the same power wire before it hits the second battery / cap. The purpose of this fuse is to protect the wire and vehicle from total meltdown in case of a short in the power line or caused by an accident. Current will flow in both directions and even if the front fuse blows, the rear battery and cap can still backfeed to the front of the vehicle.

Humvee2

iTrader: (1)

Would you reccomend just getting a high amp circut breaker? Or should I just fuse it up? What's the largest amp fuse I can get?

2. Just curious why it's necessary to go 0 gauge front to back. It's my understanding that my amps will be drawing from the closest source with the lowest resistance. I figured that the 4 gauge wire already installed would just be for the Alternator to recharge the rear battery. There will only be about 1 - 2 feet of wire between my Yellow top and my amps. 1 foot 0 gauge to the cap, and another foot from the cap to the amps. The cap has 0 gauge in and 2X 4 gauge out.

Also did you say to run the power wire from the alternator to the regulator? I've always seen these power wires go from the battery.