Well, after hitting 135.4db on my windshield, and 152.7db at my sub, me thinks it's time to move my 12in. H2 out of my sealed box into a ported box more designed for SPL.

I have TONS of room for a sub box, it can be as large as 4ft. high, 4ft. long, and about 18 inches deep. My current box is about 16x16x20 (1 cu. ft. internal).

A design? I have no idea really, other than what I saw at the last couple db drags. I have a cabinet builder that can build anything, given a plan, and we'll use 1 inch thick MDF again (my existing box is 1 inch MDF, double walled! 2 inches thick everywhere!)

I have full specs for my sub, they're also on Orion's website. Where can I get some ideas, or better yet, full plans & measurements for a box?

 

you could probly build it as big as you want and then tune it aounrd 45-55 herts with one of the various online programs at insanehertz.com. its very simple. good luck

 

---2" thick mdf is a little overkill (which is okay--i like overkill) espesially in a sealed box

 

send me the thiel smalls on your sub and some paramaters that u need to stay in and i will set u up with a wicked box. [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]

 

Thiele/Small Parameters
Free-air resonance(Hz)-30.54
Vas (cu.ft.)-1.06
Vas (liters)-30.18
Qms-8.56
Qes-0.62
Qts-0.58
Re (DC resistance, ohms)-3.2
Z nominal impedance, ohms)- 4
Le(inductance, mh)-1.5
Efficiency(2.83v/1M, dB)-87.8
Xmax(one way linear excursion, in.)-1.14
Xmax(one way linear excursion, mm)-29
Pe(continuous power handling, watts)-2000
Peak power handling (music, watts)-2500
Mms(total moving mass,gms)-251.58
Cms(mechanical compliance,mm/N)-82
Bl(motor strength, Tesla-M)-16.68
Sd(effective radiating area,sq. m.)-0.044
Sd(effective radiating area,sq. in.)-68.2
Frequency range (Hz)-30-2.5k
Energy Bandwidth Product(EBP)55.71 Driver Physical Dimension
Speaker Displacement(cu. ft)-0.39
Mounting hole diameter(in.)-11.25
Mounting depth (in.)-8
Basket diameter(in.)-13

Full specs can be seen at http://www.orioncaraudio.com/subwoof..._H2_series.asp Mine is the H2 12.2

Thanks man, I sure appreciate this... It can be as large as 3 feet long, 3 feet tall, and 18 to 24 inches deep. Probably go with a square port rather than trying to find a round one. Other'n that, I'm pretty easy.

My existing box is a 1 cu. ft. sealed, but slot firing box, made out of double 1 inch MDF, yes, 2 inches thick and 111 pounds with sub. The new box we won't make double thick, but we'll use the 1in. again.

 

hang tight dude i havn't forgoten u i will get something together more than likly tomorrow for ya! [img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]

 

ok u can take those sub specs and throw them out. for spl all u need to know is what car u are using and how much power.
Here try this box here



it's about 2.24cf before displ.

play with it in your car, try turning it and flipping it to get best spl.

[ August 18, 2004, 12:51 AM: Message edited by: Father Yuli ]

 

hey there grizz [img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img] how are ya. any who. that box that yuli has listed just above will work well. however. there are some q's i have for ya but the main one is how much power are ya putting to that Krazy sub. and what kind of car is it. talk to ya latter.

 

Thanks guys that's great.

It's been a nasty week to me, I haven't had time to research at all. The diagram you have their Yuli is the sorta thing I had in mind.

I emailed Orion tech for advice as well, and he wanted me to go full bore, by putting up a wall behind the driver's seats. I still have to reply to him and tell him that no, this van must work for a living five days a week, and still have seating for 5 too. As it is now, my rear stage and my sub box are modular, in 5 minutes I can fold down the seat, move the sub box & rear stage up onto it, and have room to slam down a pallet of batteries in the back with a forklift. This is in a midsize Astro van, not a full size van.

He also said that building an SPL box will make it just that, for SPL. Give it music to play and it'll sound like pucky. Not really what I want, although I suppose I could move the speaker from sealed box to SPL box for comp, then back to the sealed box again. I'd prefer to have a ported box of some sort that is louder than my sealed one, yet doesn't sound like pucky.

What I had in mind was a box similar in design to my old sub box. I had a KW Excelon 12 in. db+ sub. Mind you, it was a 300rms/1000pk sub with 300w going into it at 4 ohms, out of an old KW amp. The front of the cone fired into a sealed chamber, and the rear of the sub fired out a rectangular port. It was awesome, loud, and moved air like crazy.

My new sub is definately louder & sounds way better, but as it's in a sealed box, it doesn't seem to move as much air, you can't "feel" the bass as well as before. Is a big badass sub, capable of 2000rms and 2500pk, I'm driving it with an Orion 1200D amp, 1200w @ 1 ohm.

oo There's something I haven't though of till just now... my amp is hooked up to my sub at 1 ohm right now, in it's sealed box. To save destroying the speaker in a ported box, I could switch it to run at 4 ohms, it'll push 425w @ 4 ohms.

I dunno... my life's been to crazy these past few weeks, I don't think I'm gonna have time to get a new box for next weekend's show... But that's okay, I can run her in the same box again, maybe this time I'll play the right dang cd when I'm qualifying...

 

hey there sounds like you are still having fun! that box design that yuli gave u will work well for spl because u do have a longer space for wave development in that u are using a van. the general rule is around 60 hz. but like i said u have a van so that box wont be bad. but also because of the lower tunning frequency it will not sound to bad either. try it i think u will like it. also if u look close at his drawing in the box design he gave u, u will see those little 45 degree angles on all the internal corners. those are very important. u caneven make those with abs pipe buy cutting it up. once again have fun man! [img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]