Hudler

I have a 2008 GMC Sierra extended cab I want to upgrade with better sound. I plan to keep the factory HU. I have a set of Kicker 6.2 comps for the front doors and some Mach5 audio MLI65's for the rear doors. The amp I plan to use isa LA Storm 100x4 that will go under the middle of the rear seat. I am not sure if I should do this install myself or seek professional advice, thought I would ask you guys first.
I would like to replace the door speakers myself, I found info on how to remove my door panels, and it doen't look too bad. I guess my first question is can I use the existing speaker wire from the stock speakers? I am not looking at any soundproofing at this time, but am wondering what type of spacers if any I would need. I believe the rear doors have a square opening so I probably would need some sort of adapter to make the speakers fit properly MDF seems to be what people use so that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Am I overlooking anything with the speaker install, even if I did that much, the amp shouldn't cost too much to have installed.
On the subject of the amp, where would I splice it into the factory speaker wire, and what would I need to do this? Would I need to remove the factory HU to do this or not?
Last question, if I were to get someone to do the entire install for me, what would be a ballpark for install cost?
Any detailed install advice will be appreciated!! I am getting anxious to get this crap working!

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

To do it properly you will require a interface adaptor at the head unit. Audio Control makes a device called a LC6i that you should look at UNLESS you have the Bose system in the vehicle. The latter we need to look at a different device entirely. The interface is much more than a simple go between that adapts signals. It will offer a line driver, level controller, multiple RCA level outputs and a adjustable level control (dash mounted) for use with a subwoofer. This device will make or break anything that comes after it.

Your doors are tin cans, when you apply power to them they are going to ring like a gong. Deaden them and enjoy your sound (and especially the increase in bass response from the door speakers).

You will be rewiring all the speakers to the new amp. DO NOT mount the crossovers for the component speakers in the doors. The rear doors should be a 6.75" speaker as well (the same as the front).

This is not a small job and if you do not have a heated garage, don't start it. A shop most certainly will be able to do this. It would take a full day to do this install PROPERLY.

Hudler

HI, thanks for all the advice! I have found a site that gives step by step instructions on removing the factory HU (non bose unit) and it doesn't look tooo hard, I have access to all the heated shop area I need so heat is not a problem either. I will look up this LC6I and see what it is, no clue on that yet. I also will start reading up on deadning the doors, hoped I wouldn't have to, but should do it right the first time. I read on crutchfield that I could mount the crossovers in the doors, not sure what kind of adjustability they offer (Kicker 6.2's) I think it is minimal, I will read the manual that came with the speakers and see what they recommend. (speakers are packed away until xmas)
I don't plan to use a subwoofer, so will I still need the more complex interface (LC6I)? I am not into the thump thump, but I think the rear Machs will provide an adequate amount of midbass for my system especially if the doors are deadned. thanks for your advice, I think I will check out the local car audio place and get a price and see what he has to offer, I kind of wanted some knowledge so when I go there I will be able to ask questions and kind of get a feeling about the installers ability. Never hurts to be educated. I still want to try this install myself, but might chicken out..lol Thanks again MR2NR!!!!!

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

NEVER install crossovers into the doors UNLESS they are on the interior side of the vapour barrier. Otherwise you can expect a fully rusted out crossover within a year and noticeable problems with the speakers due to it. You can use a basic 4 channel LOC to act as the go between but it pales in comparison to a proper interface adaptor. I sent you a pm, we need to talk....

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Here is the link to the interface adaptor.

Line Output Converter - LC6i

Here is a link to the deals that I have running right now.

http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...-new-post.html