rrightaway

hey bud its me rick ,

just read your post and have some concerns, you stated that you tied the three wires from bypass together and connected to ign,if you go and look at install diagram you should see that the ign wire has to be cut , the wh/blk wire goes to the plug side and the wh/red and the pink go to the other side ,if this wire isnt cut this way the bypass cant work hense the name bypass which means to go around , basiccly the bypass has to send the info to the car through the pink, wh/red without it being sent up to the key thats why it is cut , just remember that once you cut the wire the vehicle cant start w/the key untill all the connection are made and the module is connected ..

to answer your question
1-sound like you have the multimeter leads reversed , go to the battery and measure accross the posts ie red to pos black lead to neg , reading there should be close to if not identicle to reading at bat + wire in column

2-yess key must be in the on position to check ign and acc wire polarity

3-remember that you cannot start vehicle with key untill all bypass wires are connected and module is connected ,note if you try to it will give a security code in the theft system and could possibly lock up the start circuit ..

4-as long as the connections are solid they will be fine cosmetic appearance gets better the more you soldier

so be carefull and have fun , anyother questions just reply and if i can help i will

rick d

prabhakarglv

Rick, I got what u r trying to say, I cut the ignition wire, connected black/white wire to plug side of ignition wire, pink and white/red wire to other end of ignition wire, thanks again. In regard to polarity u r ryt, I realized after seeing the multimeter that my probes are in different holes. I'll let u know the updates. Take care, PUBBY.

prabhakarglv

Rick,

For testing purpose, when I started doing BYPASS MODULE INSTALLATION MODE SELECTION (As explained in STEP 1 of Bypass module installation guide in Page 11) after connecting all the required wires and connectors to Bypass module and Remote starter brain, for the 1st time I heard 3 quick beeps in Remote starter Brain and the Bypass module started with Flashing Green (However in STEP 1 of page 11 explains like "In Data mode LED flashes ONCE and which didn't happen). In STEP 2 when I did "PRESS&HOLD" the Programming Button, the LED turn to FLASHING RED.

Since then I removed all the connectors from Bypass module and Remotestarter brain and reconnected again and again for almost 3 times to make sure the LED turns SOLID GREEN to REGISTER SELECTION, but everytime the LED displayed FLASHING RED (However till now I didn't insert the key into Ignition still) along with FLASHING BLUE in Antenna.

I checked all my connections and make sure they connected properly before done this procedure. My questions are,

1. Nee I've do the "FACTORY RESET PROCEDURE" before I start the "INSTALLATION MODE SELECTION" again? However when I was disconnecting the 7PIN CONNECTOR from Bypass module (including all the connectors), there is NO LED activity (I think no power to bypass module!!!) and Im not sure how to do the factory reset procedure under this circumstances.

2. Shall I check for power continuity in all connections using multimeter (through insulation piercing probe)? I checked for Analog Output and the multi meter displays like -4.9V. I think for checking Brakelight wire and parking lights I might need to turn the ignition key "ON" position, am I right? Can I able to check the power continuity and polarity (disconnecting all the connectors from bypass module and remote starter brain) by keeping the "Igntion key in ON position"?

3. Or else what is you guess Rick for happened like this (I mean am I doing the wrong way of INSTALLATION MODE SELECTION)?

4. Once my testing done, I would like to disconnect the connectors from Bypass module and Remote starter brain inorder to securely place them under dashboard. My question is once you disconnect the connectors, need I've to do the programming again or what ever the programming I will do during the testing time is good enough?

Please advice me Rick. Thank you,

Regards,

Pubby.

prabhakarglv

Hi Rick,

It's Pubby again. I did the Installation mode selection through Standard mode (Hard wiring mode) 4 pin connector with 3 wires (Blue/Wt, Black, Red wires) of Bypass module successfully since there is no power through RS232 Connector of Bypass module side (might be due to faulty connector coz I can see the power in tiny Red wire of RS 232 port connecter using the multimeter through insulation piercing probe but the power not passing through the connector at the bypass module module side).

I did the Module Programming Procedure also and did it sucessfully. I did the Remote starter module program also step by step same as the instructions given in remote starter installation manual and I heard the beeps as it is, like the way it explained in the manual.

However after the programming when I used the remote starter for door lock & unlock and for to to start the engine, I only can hear the clicks through the remote starter brain but those options are not functioning at all. However door lock & unlock is working with my old remote and I can start my engine with the key. There are few wires I didn't connect still because I'm in dilemma like what to and where to connect,

1. I didn't connected the TACH wire coz there is TACH wire from Bypass module and Remote starter brain also. So I'm not sure from where to connect the TACH wire to TACH wire at coils? I mean if I connect the TACH wire from remote starter brain then what should I've to do with the TACH wire from Bypass module

2. I didn't connect the DISARM (-Ve White/Green) and REARM (-Ve White/Brown) wires from Remote starter Brain and also DISARM (-) INPUT (Brown) wire from Bypass module. In the wiring info these wires are not available and that's why I left those as it is.

3. I connected the LOCK (- Brown) and UNLOCK (- Green) wires from Remote Starter module to LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT (Green/Black) and UNLOCK (-) INPUT (Blue/Black) wires from Bypass module.

4. I connected DOOR & TRUNK STATUS (-) OUTPUT (Green) wire from Bypass module to TRUNK (- Blue) wire of Remote starter Brain and I'm not sure whether this connection is wrong or not?

5. How about the DOOR PIN (- Tan/Blue of Driver's side & Blue/Orange of Rest of the doors) wire and TRUNK (- Tan/Black) wires in Driver's kick panel, I mean to what to connect and where to connect?

I'm not sure what ever the wires I didn't connect would have an impact on the functios which suppose to be worked!!!!???

I worked from 10am to 5pm yesterday, but with little success like bypass module programming. I'm still happy that the work is progressing towards end but need little more help from you in order to finish the project.

Thanks again Rick. Look forward to hear from you ASAP.

Regards,

Pubby.

prabhakarglv

Hi Rick,

As I explained earlier there is no power through RS232 Connector of Bypass module side (might be due to faulty connector coz I can see the power in tiny Red wire of RS 232 port connecter using the multimeter through insulation piercing probe but the power not passing through the connector at the bypass module module side). That's why I decided standard wiring method using the 4 pin connector with 3 wires (Blue/Wt, Black, Red wires) and connected the RED to power, the BLACK to ground and the BLUE/WHITE to the WHITE wire off the remote starter.

I tried to start the programming for remote starter initially as explained in remote starter installation manual (I MUST program the remote starter to accept an iDatalink module and it is defaulted to an Xpresskit. This is in option group 4 in the installation manual). However the Remote starter module was not responded, I mean absolutely can’t able to bring it to “entering programming mode”. There is no sound (No click sounds) from the remote starter module. After connecting all the connectors to remote starter module and there no activity in parking lights when the hood open. But even though I pressed and hold the hood pin for 4 sec for to enter in Programming mode but no response at all from the remote starter module (over optimistic). I checked the fuse and the power to the remote starter module and is absolutely fine. There is no LED activity at antenna whatsoever. I connected the following wires which I don’t have any clue earlier,

For Tach I connected the PURPLE wire from remote starter to the PURPLE/WHITE wire from the ADS-DL.

For the DISARM I wired up the WHITE/GREEN wire from the remote starter to the BROWN wire of Bypass module.

I connected the LOCK (- Brown) and UNLOCK (- Green) wires from Remote Starter module to LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT (Green/Black) and UNLOCK (-) INPUT (Blue/Black) wires from Bypass module.

I connected the BLUE wire from the Remote starter to the TRUNK (-) INPUT - RED/WHITE of Bypass module.

Earlier I did the BYPASS MODULE PROGRAMMING FIRST then I followed with remote starter module and I successfully brought the remote starter module to “entering programming mode” exactly as explained in installation manual (but I made wrong connections for DISARM and TRUNK INPUT that time and I corrected now) and this time no response at all.

However I can able to do the Module Programming procedure in Bypass Module without having any problems (with standard wiring method).
****Note: If I remove all the connectors from Bypass module I can’t able to start the engine. But there is no problem in starting the engine with the all connectors connected to bypass module. I did it for testing whether the engine can start with and without connectors from Remote starter brain and bypass module after all this trails.

I’m just wondering are these current minor changes (wire connections) done for the remote starter module now, affecting the remote starter module for not to respond now (and earlier it did successfully)?

I thought of to finish the project today (coz the weather is good for me to work on) but I couldn’t able to finish it. I even got the new battery today, thinking that the power is not sufficient to the components, but no use. I appreciate your reply so that I will do my work tomorrow.

Thanks for your extending help.

Regards,

Pubby.

prabhakarglv

Hi Rick,

I DID IT AT LAST EXCEPT LOCK FUNCTION IN MY REMOTE STARTER.

The STARTER and UNLOCK FUNCTIONS ARE WORKING. However there is no confirmation icon display in my transmitter for the functions. For the confirmation icons need I've program the transmitter? But I have regular remote start for lock and unlock function. Anyhow it's been a mammoth task for since two months, but guys like you patiently explained me to finish my task and its really paid at the end.

THANKS A LOT,

PUBBY.