Amp in protect?
#1
Amp in protect?
Hi.
I'm (rather I was) using EGA440 Soundstream amp, and I was just running Infinity Kappas 6X9. It was wired just to get me some tunes for the trip to States, and after about 2h, it cut out and went in protect. i removed the speaker wires and RCAs and its still in protect. Disconnected and rewired the power and wont go back up. What could that be? The amp is 2ohm stable (putting 220W at 2ohm) and the speakers say that they are 2ohm 110W, and the gain was 30-40%, deck was 20-30/64 so not even half the volume. So I doubt I clipped it... I will try to look inside of it today, but doesn't smell like any components are burned... I just picked that amp up, and I donno if its a user error or should i return it? Any advice?any help will do, thnx Luke
I'm (rather I was) using EGA440 Soundstream amp, and I was just running Infinity Kappas 6X9. It was wired just to get me some tunes for the trip to States, and after about 2h, it cut out and went in protect. i removed the speaker wires and RCAs and its still in protect. Disconnected and rewired the power and wont go back up. What could that be? The amp is 2ohm stable (putting 220W at 2ohm) and the speakers say that they are 2ohm 110W, and the gain was 30-40%, deck was 20-30/64 so not even half the volume. So I doubt I clipped it... I will try to look inside of it today, but doesn't smell like any components are burned... I just picked that amp up, and I donno if its a user error or should i return it? Any advice?any help will do, thnx Luke
#2
You can check a few difference thing. 1. check resistance for each speaker (if less than 2ohms, that means your speaker is gone and ready damage the amp.) 2. check resistance between amp. ground terminal - and battery negative ( if more than 10ohms, that mean it's open circuit, you need re-connect it) 3. make sure it has 12v at amp. positive terminal. If all of them is OK, that means it has a connection problem for your power source or it has a short circuit at speaker output when you driving. It's better way to check at any car audio shop.
#4
just took it apart and one resistor inside the amp has popped out... i will re solder it (it not burned, it just fell out of the board) - amp is used
ps. the heat sink connectors are pain in the *** to remove, they are stuck to that stupid heat tape, i will probably use heat grease after i put it back
ps. the heat sink connectors are pain in the *** to remove, they are stuck to that stupid heat tape, i will probably use heat grease after i put it back
#5
You can check a few difference thing. 1. check resistance for each speaker (if less than 2ohms, that means your speaker is gone and ready damage the amp.) 2. check resistance between amp. ground terminal - and battery negative ( if more than 10ohms, that mean it's open circuit, you need re-connect it) 3. make sure it has 12v at amp. positive terminal. If all of them is OK, that means it has a connection problem for your power source or it has a short circuit at speaker output when you driving. It's better way to check at any car audio shop.
#7
I'm currently fixing the circuit on that amp, but what do you mean by point number 2?
"2. check resistance between amp. ground terminal - and battery negative ( if more than 10ohms, that mean it's open circuit, you need re-connect it)"? To make it crystal clear, using ohm meter- one probe touching negative terminal of the amp while all the cables are hooked up and second probe touching negative of the battery? (this will be quite challenging since the amp and battery are far from each other)....
"2. check resistance between amp. ground terminal - and battery negative ( if more than 10ohms, that mean it's open circuit, you need re-connect it)"? To make it crystal clear, using ohm meter- one probe touching negative terminal of the amp while all the cables are hooked up and second probe touching negative of the battery? (this will be quite challenging since the amp and battery are far from each other)....
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