Car Audio Rookie
01-10-2007, 08:04 AM
#21
I made my own mounts for 6.5 speakers for my cavalier, there is lots of room between the steel door and the door panel plastic. Because the mid-bass i had had huge magnets, i had to jigsaw the steel door to fit.
One of the audio shops who worked on my cavalier told me there are custom mount adaptors, but i've never seen them.
The door panel is easy. Philips screws all along the botom and rear and one behind the mirror, 2 big torx screws in the door handle. Pull out the bottom of the panel, it's just push-in plugs, then lift up. Unplug the power mirror connector and the power door lock connector.
I pulled out the factory wire to pull in the new wires.
One sub box i had behind the seats, I took out the subs, bolted the box down from inside the box, right through the floor. Had someone help and I crawled under to tighten the bolts. Then i replaced the cheap philips screws that came with the subs with nice looking allen head cap screws.
My rear 6x9's had long bolts, on which i put double nuts for security. When the car was boken into, they couldn't get all speakers out, so they distroyed them.
I had amps mounted very solidly, they only got 1 out of 4 amps.
They sawed and broke the dash panel to get the head unit, without the faceplate, and they got the cap and CD changer. I hope the cap sparked real good! They got caught, with the one set of 4" Kaptions, but in court they got a slap on the wrist.
After many upgrades, I ended up with 0 ga. power wire. Might want to start there to avoid replacing it when you expand.
1. Add a 0 ga ground from battery - to chassis. I left the original there as well. (That was replaced after the break in, they cut the ground to shut up the ararm siren)
2. 0 ga power wire from alt + out to battery. Some like to fuse that.
3. 0 ga ground from alt case or engine to chassis.
I used expansion battery posts. Tsunami is expensive at Best Buy, but with the power disconnected, it was the only place i could walk too! Doh!
some people like to do starter power cable while they are at it. My new car has the alt out connected to starter, but it came with 2 ga wire so i haven't changed it.
Then you can run your fused power wire to the rear fused distribution block, to your amps.
Put in a distributon block for amp grounds in the rear. I bolted it through the trunk floor with a 3/8-16x1-1/2" brass bolt.
I used factory power for the head unit, it's low current if your not runing speakers off it.
One of the audio shops who worked on my cavalier told me there are custom mount adaptors, but i've never seen them.
The door panel is easy. Philips screws all along the botom and rear and one behind the mirror, 2 big torx screws in the door handle. Pull out the bottom of the panel, it's just push-in plugs, then lift up. Unplug the power mirror connector and the power door lock connector.
I pulled out the factory wire to pull in the new wires.
One sub box i had behind the seats, I took out the subs, bolted the box down from inside the box, right through the floor. Had someone help and I crawled under to tighten the bolts. Then i replaced the cheap philips screws that came with the subs with nice looking allen head cap screws.
My rear 6x9's had long bolts, on which i put double nuts for security. When the car was boken into, they couldn't get all speakers out, so they distroyed them.
I had amps mounted very solidly, they only got 1 out of 4 amps.
They sawed and broke the dash panel to get the head unit, without the faceplate, and they got the cap and CD changer. I hope the cap sparked real good! They got caught, with the one set of 4" Kaptions, but in court they got a slap on the wrist.
After many upgrades, I ended up with 0 ga. power wire. Might want to start there to avoid replacing it when you expand.
1. Add a 0 ga ground from battery - to chassis. I left the original there as well. (That was replaced after the break in, they cut the ground to shut up the ararm siren)
2. 0 ga power wire from alt + out to battery. Some like to fuse that.
3. 0 ga ground from alt case or engine to chassis.
I used expansion battery posts. Tsunami is expensive at Best Buy, but with the power disconnected, it was the only place i could walk too! Doh!
some people like to do starter power cable while they are at it. My new car has the alt out connected to starter, but it came with 2 ga wire so i haven't changed it.
Then you can run your fused power wire to the rear fused distribution block, to your amps.
Put in a distributon block for amp grounds in the rear. I bolted it through the trunk floor with a 3/8-16x1-1/2" brass bolt.
I used factory power for the head unit, it's low current if your not runing speakers off it.
Last edited by Tom.F.1; 01-10-2007 at 08:30 AM.
01-11-2007, 08:53 AM
#23
Someone else was asking about 4x6" door speakers, so i did some searching for them:
ACS2046P - Audiobahn 4x6
§ Size - 4x6"
§ Magnet Weight - 17 oz.
§ Power Handling - 80 Watts
§ Frequency Response - 50Hz - 22.5kHz
§ Sensitivity - 93db
§ Impedance - 4 Ohm
§ Cast Composite Flame Basket
§ Cast Composite Flame Grill
§ Indigo Blue Poly Carbon Cone
§ EPDM Rubber Surround
§ Removable Aluminum Swivel Tweeter
§ Full-range or Component Capability
§ 2 layer High-temp ASV Voice Coil
§ 4 Ohm Impedance
§ Outboard 12db Matched Component
Those would make your door install a lot easier
ACS2046P - Audiobahn 4x6
§ Size - 4x6"
§ Magnet Weight - 17 oz.
§ Power Handling - 80 Watts
§ Frequency Response - 50Hz - 22.5kHz
§ Sensitivity - 93db
§ Impedance - 4 Ohm
§ Cast Composite Flame Basket
§ Cast Composite Flame Grill
§ Indigo Blue Poly Carbon Cone
§ EPDM Rubber Surround
§ Removable Aluminum Swivel Tweeter
§ Full-range or Component Capability
§ 2 layer High-temp ASV Voice Coil
§ 4 Ohm Impedance
§ Outboard 12db Matched Component
Those would make your door install a lot easier
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