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Improving voltage

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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #11  
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you need a hell of a lot more runs of 1/0 and the largest batt you can fit for street a
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #12  
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how many do you mean buy a hell of a lot? lol
i can get 2/0 gauge welders wire pretty cheep out here so that wont be an issue
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #13  
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you need at least 8 runs of each (positive and negative) which would all go into a buss bar, which would then go to the amplifier.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #14  
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yeah i figured a buss bar would be need in that case.

what im looking at doing is running the battery in my trunk to shorten the length of the runs to the amp. would i be able to take the 2 runs i have now, and run them from my main car battery to charge the trunk battery and then disconnect it for when im in the lanes for db drag?
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by spitfire04
yeah i figured a buss bar would be need in that case.

what im looking at doing is running the battery in my trunk to shorten the length of the runs to the amp. would i be able to take the 2 runs i have now, and run them from my main car battery to charge the trunk battery and then disconnect it for when im in the lanes for db drag?
there would be nothing wrong with you running a dual batt setup for daily use... thats what MANY people do.

thing is, with street a, you want to get the most out of your front battery, which is why you do multiple runs of wire to a buss bar... those buss bars are kinda like 'batterys' as you can only have one run into your amplifier.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jalat
there would be nothing wrong with you running a dual batt setup for daily use... thats what MANY people do.

thing is, with street a, you want to get the most out of your front battery, which is why you do multiple runs of wire to a buss bar... those buss bars are kinda like 'batterys' as you can only have one run into your amplifier.
so instead of putting the new battery in the trunk just replace my front battery then?

or should i run 8 runs from my front batt to a buss bar then to my trunk batt then to my amp?

Last edited by spitfire04; Jan 23, 2011 at 11:14 PM.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:32 AM
  #17  
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Check audiosavings.com for Kinetik..
They have a KHC 1800 for $225... They ship via DHL also, so fast shipping. Should cost just a little over $300 by the time you have it.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #18  
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funny no one pointed out that your voltage is supposed to drop.

better indication of what the issue might be is doing a power test on your amplifier while it's in the car to see how much power you are making.

like say if you are producing 4500 watts at full tilt and your voltage drops like you are describing then you might not have any issues at all.

in the same instance if you are only making like 2000 watts then there is a big issue.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #19  
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well the ratings on the amp are 5000watts rms @ 14.4 volts @ 1 OHM, so with it dropping down to 10.5 wouldn't it be that I'm no tgetting the full power that i should be?
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Father Yuli
funny no one pointed out that your voltage is supposed to drop.

better indication of what the issue might be is doing a power test on your amplifier while it's in the car to see how much power you are making.

like say if you are producing 4500 watts at full tilt and your voltage drops like you are describing then you might not have any issues at all.

in the same instance if you are only making like 2000 watts then there is a big issue.

this is all true. what is your starting impedance at the amp? there are soo many un answered questions that its hard to troubleshoot everything at once



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