AAAAAAA

iTrader: (7)

It sounds like your eyes might be giving you cues about what you hear. And as far as I know, even regulated amps don't actually make full power at varying voltages, contraty to what it says on the companies web sites.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

I do my own install work. Have unlimited access to a heated, fully equipped 4 bay garage.

I use the correct harness & faceplates from the store, etc. I currently have 2 4awg (both fused) runs into the car, one for each amp. I made my own MDF adaptor plates for the 6.5" UP6 drivers in the front doors (Ford 5x7). Sub wire is 10awg, that blue & silver Monster stuff. All RCA are the red Monster stuff. Other speaker wire is 12awg. Every single connection is spade connection for easy removal, etc.

I have the tweeters mounted in the sail panels but DLS mixed up the flush mount housings in my box, so I used the surface mount pods. They are down low in the sail panel and firing more or less at at my face. They are screwed into a block of hardwood hidden behind the sail panel.

All RCA & speaker runs are kept away from the power runs.

4awg grounds for each amp (front seat mounting bolt). I have no noise. None, zero. Just lucky I guess.

When I go for the components (Novemeber, October is a heavy bill month) I will ask Ross what we can do. Before I even install them I would like to meet up with you. Beer or coffee on me.

I think I am going to buy seperate components for active. No package deal with crossover, but may get it anyway in case I fail with active.

John

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

All is possible, but what I know now with regulated amps, I do not have that problem anymore, not even a hint. As far, as full power at lower voltage is concerned, I think it becomes current on tap issue. As the voltage drops, in order to maintain the power needed, more current is requested by the amp, so it becomes a juice pig at idle. With decent set-up with an upgraded alt, I do not see the drawbacks of a regulated amp. The thing is, even if you have an upgraded alt, the voltage will still drop to lets say 12.8 if the tap runs out, and I would still rather have a regulated power supply, that's what the battery is for, but make sure you have a deep cycle under the hood for the abuse, and if you need more buffer, you may get a Kinetic for the back. Capacitance is key in any case, IMO.

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

hehe It is not my eyes. I think you misunderstood me, I meant the intersection lights, not car lights. I never saw the problem, I always heard it, and it was a **** off when you start listening for it, and hearing it. I do not want to have this problem again, and I don't, so I am a happy camper

sirsleepsalot

iTrader: (1)

I'm setup with CDT as well, and I'm very happy with my setup. I'm one of those who listens to lots of metal / rock and ridiculous volumes once in a while, and I wanted something that was right up there SQ-wise.

So, I ended up with a 3-way with dual midbasses for that extra punch that's just so fun to listen to with rock !

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Oooohhh...question time!

Did you try active or passive?

2 midbass drivers the same size? That would probably be as much work as an 8", 4" and tweet, so you did it that way for more bass? I guess what i'm asking is why not the 4" midrange?

What are they crossed at? Mid bass and tweets. Slopes? Your answer will probably be my starting point.

Happy with the way they are holding up? When i'm alone and away from people, i like it VERY loud as well.

If active, you maybe used 2 amps (6 components)? Processor?

If you have the time, i'm really interested in your reply.

Thanks!

John

AAAAAAA

iTrader: (7)

Just have a look at his build. It is 3way not including the dual midbase.
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...tallation.html

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Answers some of my questions, thank you.