Hello Dear Audiophiles! Please Answer My Question!
#1
Hello Dear Audiophiles! Please Answer My Question!
I gots 200W RMS EuroSports CDTs in the front and 100W RMS CDTs in the back. My xover on the EuroSports is an older model, handling 180W RMS.
I am looking for a bitchin amp to drive these, but cant find anything that suits my needs. I have a JBL GTO 4 channel amp (hello best buy, dont hate, impulsive buy, returning it) powering my system at 100W RMS @ 4 ohms, which is greatly underpowering my higher rated set.
It looks like I have to get two separate amps to drive my fronts n rears. I would be happy with at least 150-160W RMS into the EuroSports (even 180-200W but im scared to burn my xovers, tbh). I am looking at Alpine MRP-300 4 channel amp, and it says it can do bridged mode at 150W @ 4 ohm. I dont understand how to get the amp to do exactly that, since I know that bridging two 4 ohm channels results in 2 ohms resistance. Would I be able to power my fronts which are 4 ohm, from the Alpine amp, at 150W bridged @ 4 ohms? (It states it is 4 ohm stable in bridged mode) Or is this more for a sub, since it will be running mono when its bridged, right?
Also, if my option is a flop, perhaps you can suggest to me an amp or two that will get my speakers bumpin? Budget is about 400-500$ Maybe you know someone who is sellin in the GTA?
I am looking for a bitchin amp to drive these, but cant find anything that suits my needs. I have a JBL GTO 4 channel amp (hello best buy, dont hate, impulsive buy, returning it) powering my system at 100W RMS @ 4 ohms, which is greatly underpowering my higher rated set.
It looks like I have to get two separate amps to drive my fronts n rears. I would be happy with at least 150-160W RMS into the EuroSports (even 180-200W but im scared to burn my xovers, tbh). I am looking at Alpine MRP-300 4 channel amp, and it says it can do bridged mode at 150W @ 4 ohm. I dont understand how to get the amp to do exactly that, since I know that bridging two 4 ohm channels results in 2 ohms resistance. Would I be able to power my fronts which are 4 ohm, from the Alpine amp, at 150W bridged @ 4 ohms? (It states it is 4 ohm stable in bridged mode) Or is this more for a sub, since it will be running mono when its bridged, right?
Also, if my option is a flop, perhaps you can suggest to me an amp or two that will get my speakers bumpin? Budget is about 400-500$ Maybe you know someone who is sellin in the GTA?
#2
I had a similar situation and contemplated the following for my Hertz MLK2 front stage and Hertz Co-Ax rears:
Single Amp
------------
Audison LRx6.9, 6 channel (or any 6 channel capable of running as a partially-bridged 4 channel)......run as a 4 channel. 2 bridged channels to the front components, 2 regular channels to the rear. This configuration (using the LRx6.9) would have yeilded 240w x 2 + 75w x 2 RMS.
2 Amps (+ active crossover. ie. AudioControl 2XS to seperate front stage)
--------------------------------------------------------------
One larger 2 channel amp, One smaller 4 channel amp.
Run the front components active. Keep rears passive.
Audison SRx2s, 180w x 2 to the midbass.
Audison SRx4, 65w x 4....2 channels for front tweeters, 2 channels for passive rear fill.
<this is the config I decided to go with, but didn't end up installing>
There are obviously other ways of doing it, but these 2 made the most sense to me at the time.....your opinion may be different.
Cheers.
Single Amp
------------
Audison LRx6.9, 6 channel (or any 6 channel capable of running as a partially-bridged 4 channel)......run as a 4 channel. 2 bridged channels to the front components, 2 regular channels to the rear. This configuration (using the LRx6.9) would have yeilded 240w x 2 + 75w x 2 RMS.
2 Amps (+ active crossover. ie. AudioControl 2XS to seperate front stage)
--------------------------------------------------------------
One larger 2 channel amp, One smaller 4 channel amp.
Run the front components active. Keep rears passive.
Audison SRx2s, 180w x 2 to the midbass.
Audison SRx4, 65w x 4....2 channels for front tweeters, 2 channels for passive rear fill.
<this is the config I decided to go with, but didn't end up installing>
There are obviously other ways of doing it, but these 2 made the most sense to me at the time.....your opinion may be different.
Cheers.
#4
#5
if you look close the MRP-F300 is 2 ohm stable in 4 channel mode. When you bridge the amplifier it becomes stable at 4 ohms, which is what you want. The 4 channels just turned into the 2 channels that you need with 150 watts per channel.
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